i have prepsol and deoxidene in plain containers, so dont have the instructions.
i have no idea how to use the stuff and am ready to prime some bare panels in next few days, so could someone give me a rundown
cheers
Steve
how to apply/use prepsol & deoxidine
Started by
_SnotGobbler_
, Jan 01 2011 07:04 PM
43 replies to this topic
#2
_TorYoda_
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 08:03 PM
I know about the Prepsol..... but not the deoxidine. Apply prepsol liberally with a rag then wipe off until dry with a different clean rag. This method prevents recontamination.
#3
_nial8r_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 07:25 AM
wipe the deoxidine all over your bare metal if it will be sitting for a while but before you prepsol give the whole car a chop 80 -120grit dry ( pretty sure you cant paint straight over it ) as i use a different type of converter. when you presole its a wipe on wipe of method, so you will need 2 clean rags, wipe with the prepsol 1st the come straight behind it with the clean rag. you may have to change rags half way though as the rags will get pretty dirty. i normally go over the car twice as there is nothing worse than hitting a patch of silocone when priming/colour.
#4
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 09:50 AM
thanks
seems both is wax on, wax off... no diluting stuff etc
just gonna etch prime then prime my boot after i finish bare metalling with a strip disc
seems both is wax on, wax off... no diluting stuff etc
just gonna etch prime then prime my boot after i finish bare metalling with a strip disc
#6
_nial8r_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 10:19 AM
opps i just re read your last post, if you dont have any pitting ( surface rust ) i dont think i would bother with the deoxidine.
#7
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 11:02 AM
G/day Steve
Been a long time since I prepped and painted cars but from memory the instructions for Deoxadine were to use straight from the bottle (I poured it into an ice cream container or old plastic jug + wear rubber gloves) and apply to surface with 00 or 01 grade steel wool rubbing in a circular motion on larger areas. Do not allow Deoxadine to dry on panels it must be washed off with clean water, then dry the surface with clean dry rags. If the Deoxadine drys on the surface then just redo that area. If you let Deoxadine dry on the surface it will cause surface rust if left there too long. Don't Deoxadine over body filler.
I always prepped with Deoxadine no matter how long the metal has been bare and prime within 1 hour. If the humidity is high then wait until conditions are more suitable for prep and paint unless you have a spray booth.
Always Prepsol surfaces before and after Deoxadine application.
Run over all surfaces with tack rags to remove lint etc then apply the primer.
Apply Prepsol as others have already advised.
That's my experience and never had a problem.
Cheers
Dave
Been a long time since I prepped and painted cars but from memory the instructions for Deoxadine were to use straight from the bottle (I poured it into an ice cream container or old plastic jug + wear rubber gloves) and apply to surface with 00 or 01 grade steel wool rubbing in a circular motion on larger areas. Do not allow Deoxadine to dry on panels it must be washed off with clean water, then dry the surface with clean dry rags. If the Deoxadine drys on the surface then just redo that area. If you let Deoxadine dry on the surface it will cause surface rust if left there too long. Don't Deoxadine over body filler.
I always prepped with Deoxadine no matter how long the metal has been bare and prime within 1 hour. If the humidity is high then wait until conditions are more suitable for prep and paint unless you have a spray booth.
Always Prepsol surfaces before and after Deoxadine application.
Run over all surfaces with tack rags to remove lint etc then apply the primer.
Apply Prepsol as others have already advised.
That's my experience and never had a problem.
Cheers
Dave
#8
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 11:10 AM
G/day Steve
Been a long time since I prepped and painted cars but from memory the instructions for Deoxadine were to use straight from the bottle (I poured it into an ice cream container or old plastic jug + wear rubber gloves) and apply to surface with 00 or 01 grade steel wool rubbing in a circular motion on larger areas. Do not allow Deoxadine to dry on panels it must be washed off with clean water, then dry the surface with clean dry rags. If the Deoxadine drys on the surface then just redo that area. If you let Deoxadine dry on the surface it will cause surface rust if left there too long. Don't Deoxadine over body filler.
I always prepped with Deoxadine no matter how long the metal has been bare and prime within 1 hour. If the humidity is high then wait until conditions are more suitable for prep and paint unless you have a spray booth.
Always Prepsol surfaces before and after Deoxadine application.
Run over all surfaces with tack rags to remove lint etc then apply the primer.
Apply Prepsol as others have already advised.
That's my experience and never had a problem.
Cheers
Dave
ive got some POR15 metal ready.. which is similar for metal prepping, except it must be left on wet for 15mins...
is that the same for Deoxadine..leave on for a period of time
#9
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 12:00 PM
ive got some POR15 metal ready.. which is similar for metal prepping, except it must be left on wet for 15mins...
is that the same for Deoxadine..leave on for a period of time
No, from memory Deoxadine should be removed before it drys. The way I applied it was to scrub the surface with the steel wool soaked in Deoxadine to remove surface rust then sponge off with clean water and dry out with rag. Sometimes stubborn surface rust/pitting would need multiple applications to remove it all.
Even if there is really no surface rust or oxidization to speak of the Deoxadine conditions the surface of the metal.
Edited by S pack, 02 January 2011 - 12:01 PM.
#10
_Quagmire_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:33 PM
not a good idea to apply prepsol (/wax and grease remover,prepsol is a brand name)
to bare body filler either
an old mate used to wash it off with water
but i find the two rag trick works well enough
to bare body filler either
an old mate used to wash it off with water
but i find the two rag trick works well enough
#11
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:44 PM
There are several types of rust converters/deoxidine.
Without knowing which type its impossible to suggest exactly what you should do.
Prepsol before you start sanding, after you start sanding, etc etc, basically prepsol as you do each stage.
And i to try not to prepsol over body filler, i just use gp thinners over body filler.
Cheers.
Without knowing which type its impossible to suggest exactly what you should do.
Prepsol before you start sanding, after you start sanding, etc etc, basically prepsol as you do each stage.
And i to try not to prepsol over body filler, i just use gp thinners over body filler.
Cheers.
#12
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 02:21 PM
right oh
am doing it now.. but WTF
after the deoxadine, it gets a tarnished look and brownish like surface rust is starting..is this sposed to happen or am i doing something wrong???
wiped it all over with prepsol and wiped off, dried
put deoxadine in icecream container and worked in sections. using a synthetic scrub cloth thing to rub in, then wipe over completed section with wet rag, which is soaked liberally with water. then blow dry off with compressor and wiping with a dry clean rag. as it dries i can see the brown rust area form. so i rub with deoxadine again, wipe with damp cloth, then soaked librally with more water.. dry.. same blardy thing
and im about the throw the blardy boot lid out the door lol.. and its pretty toasty here
am doing it now.. but WTF
after the deoxadine, it gets a tarnished look and brownish like surface rust is starting..is this sposed to happen or am i doing something wrong???
wiped it all over with prepsol and wiped off, dried
put deoxadine in icecream container and worked in sections. using a synthetic scrub cloth thing to rub in, then wipe over completed section with wet rag, which is soaked liberally with water. then blow dry off with compressor and wiping with a dry clean rag. as it dries i can see the brown rust area form. so i rub with deoxadine again, wipe with damp cloth, then soaked librally with more water.. dry.. same blardy thing
and im about the throw the blardy boot lid out the door lol.. and its pretty toasty here
#13
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 02:54 PM
Try wiping with metho after the water, then a clean dry rag.
It will discolor, but it usually goes a whitish or rainbow kinda color.
Cheers.
It will discolor, but it usually goes a whitish or rainbow kinda color.
Cheers.
#14
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 03:04 PM
before just assuming as i usually do.. i best ask what is Metho?
Methonal or Metholated spirits....? i have the latter
yeah, i got whitesh, rainbow blue like heat affect going on aswel in most places
i think it better to wipe off using 2 rags instead of rag + air gun. seems to have almost got rid of the rustsh/brown problem
Methonal or Metholated spirits....? i have the latter
yeah, i got whitesh, rainbow blue like heat affect going on aswel in most places
i think it better to wipe off using 2 rags instead of rag + air gun. seems to have almost got rid of the rustsh/brown problem
#16
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 03:39 PM
hmm, nah.. dont got any mentholated spirits... some mentholated smokes would be nice right now though
methylated spirits i have even.. im progressing through my panel/paint preparation apprenticeship slowly
anyways.. looks heaps better.. you da bomb
P1020576.jpg 75.97K
8 downloads
how many coats of etch primer do i put on.. 1 or 2 or more.. sand in between coats?
umm, im just gonna use a roller for this one as i cant figure out how to stop the moisture in air compressor..either its a crap taiwainese moisture trap thats good for nothing or something else
methylated spirits i have even.. im progressing through my panel/paint preparation apprenticeship slowly
anyways.. looks heaps better.. you da bomb
P1020576.jpg 75.97K
8 downloadshow many coats of etch primer do i put on.. 1 or 2 or more.. sand in between coats?
umm, im just gonna use a roller for this one as i cant figure out how to stop the moisture in air compressor..either its a crap taiwainese moisture trap thats good for nothing or something else
#17
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 03:43 PM
yes very good picking me up on my carpy speeling.
Etch by rule just one coat then put proper primer over the top, if your just etching and leaving put two good coats on.
Moisture in your airline is likely due to the moisture still being vaporized when it hits the water trap, water traps cant filter out steam. you will need to rig up some kind of a refrigerated air dryer type system, can be done quiet cheaply, do a quick forum search we have discussed this at length numerous times.
Cheers.
Etch by rule just one coat then put proper primer over the top, if your just etching and leaving put two good coats on.
Moisture in your airline is likely due to the moisture still being vaporized when it hits the water trap, water traps cant filter out steam. you will need to rig up some kind of a refrigerated air dryer type system, can be done quiet cheaply, do a quick forum search we have discussed this at length numerous times.
Cheers.
#18
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 04:52 PM
am thinking one coat of etch tonight..cus im gonna run out of light in an hour or so, then put on a couple of filler/primer coats tomorrow lunchtime'sh
so i take it no sanding.. 1 coat of etch, put filler/primer on top then sand between coats there aftera?
just to confirm...i have 220/240.. that should do it from memory??
cheers
back off to shed to inhale fumes.. i mean paint
so i take it no sanding.. 1 coat of etch, put filler/primer on top then sand between coats there aftera?
just to confirm...i have 220/240.. that should do it from memory??
cheers
back off to shed to inhale fumes.. i mean paint
#19
View GaragePosted 03 January 2011 - 05:45 PM
Don't forget that you need to empty the water out of the bottom of the compressor on a regular basis too - the water trap is only designed to catch a small amount through the lines, not make up for a tank full of water
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 05:53 PM
Spraying i'd say 2-3 coats then sand, but with a roller it may be best to sand between coats.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#21
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 07:32 PM
Spraying i'd say 2-3 coats then sand, but with a roller it may be best to sand between coats.
Cheers.
umm... sand between coats of etch or filler/primer???
have to wait till tomorrow now.. its 10:30pm.. and i need to eat and water the gardens
#22
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 07:51 PM
Lay down 1 coat of etch, lay down 1 coat primer filler, then begin sanding. Thats assuming your using a roller.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 03 January 2011 - 07:52 PM.
#23
_Quagmire_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:11 PM
i never sanded when i used a rollor
only for the prep
and i used spac filler too
much cheaper and less messy than body filler too
but that was on the wall of my house
only for the prep
and i used spac filler too
much cheaper and less messy than body filler too
but that was on the wall of my house
#24
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:18 PM
Bahahaha i was about to abuse the frOck out of you quaggy.....Then you redeemed yourself 
Cheers.
Cheers.
#25
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:19 PM
Lay down 1 coat of etch, lay down 1 coat primer filler, then begin sanding. Thats assuming your using a roller.
Cheers.
all good
think im putting down another layer of etch.. i rolled over stuff that was semi dry and lifted bits with the roller leaving speckled areas of bare metal here n there argh lol
ohwell, ill sleep on it
thanks for the advise today
Edited by SnotGobbler, 03 January 2011 - 08:23 PM.
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