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shudder on take off


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#1 _WILDWOGZ_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:09 PM

g'day all,
My torry (LH, m20, 173) has developed the strangest problem of a shudder when taking off from dead stop. Taking off as I would normally it does it everytime, but if I give it more revs the problem is very hard to detect. I think the car needs a tune as it was pinging in 4th, but can the cause of this shuddering be just because of a simple tune up?

any suggestions would be great because the car seems to drive fine, just that nasty take off giving the passengers (and the people around me at the lights) a bit of a scare ahaha

cheers



#2 Ice

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:40 PM

I have just gone thru the same thing mine was clutch was stuffed and flywheel needed machining
might be something else but on your car

#3 76lxhatch

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:50 PM

Can also be caused by damaged/deteriorated engine or gearbox mounts

#4 _robslxhatch_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:59 PM

The shudder may be a missfire under load , dont overlook the obvious ie. tune up . If it has a manual choke try pulling it on a bit and see if the problem changes.

#5 Heath

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:34 PM

I was gonna say it could be clutch shudder as Glacier said, but I guess there are a few things that could cause what you're describing. Give as much information as possible when you want to diagnose something over the net.

#6 S pack

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:38 PM

I have just gone thru the same thing mine was clutch was stuffed and flywheel needed machining
might be something else but on your car


+1
Check the condition of your engine and gearbox mounts, replace them if they are doubtful but most likely your clutch and/or pressure plate is stuffed.
It is possible that the clutch facings are contaminated with grease or gearbox oil from a leaking clutch gear oil seal.
Either way I'm betting you'll be up for a new clutch.

#7 _2ELCS_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:49 PM

^^+2

#8 _WILDWOGZ_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 10:09 PM

hmm I'm veering towards it being the engine and tranny mounts as the clutch wasn't replaced that long ago at all(under 6 months) . There would still be plenty of meat on the clutch itself, not too sure about the pressure plate though. Ahh guess I will have to check those mounts next time I go for a drive. Cant imagine this being an inexpensive fix ahahah




thanks for the help



#9 Heath

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 10:53 PM

When the clutch plate was replaced, was a new pressure plate installed too? And did someone inspect the condition of the flywheel => was it machined if necessary? Normally it isn't so much a problem with the clutch plate itself, rather that the friction surface on the flywheel is no longer true & flat, so the clutch 'skips' across it.

#10 _WILDWOGZ_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 11:01 PM

When the clutch plate was replaced, was a new pressure plate installed too? And did someone inspect the condition of the flywheel => was it machined if necessary? Normally it isn't so much a problem with the clutch plate itself, rather that the friction surface on the flywheel is no longer true & flat, so the clutch 'skips' across it.


When the clutch was done (my uncle did it) we looked at the old flywheel and the pressure plate, both were replaced as the old one had basically a 2mm deep cut into it from the old clutch plates pads wearing out so much that the rivets holding them in started acting as the clutch. (caused a shit load of slipping). So I purchased a clutch kit aswell as a used flywheel



#11 _Quagmire_

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 11:14 PM

checked your front uni joints?
if your under there checking the mounts you may as well

Edited by Quagmire, 30 January 2011 - 11:16 PM.


#12 GML-31

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:37 AM

or the flywheel is coming loose

#13 Ice

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:55 AM

You say you used a second hand flywheel how do you know if it was flat and true

#14 S pack

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 01:06 AM

hmm I'm veering towards it being the engine and tranny mounts as the clutch wasn't replaced that long ago at all(under 6 months) . There would still be plenty of meat on the clutch itself, not too sure about the pressure plate though. Ahh guess I will have to check those mounts next time I go for a drive. Cant imagine this being an inexpensive fix ahahah

thanks for the help


You won't be driving the car to check the engine and gearbox mounts. New mounts won't cost a fortune.
This shudder wasn't evident immediately after replacing the clutch was it? Rather it has developed and gotten worse over time?
The shudder is also bad in reverse gear?

#15 _nicko61_

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 07:53 AM

Nothing very expensive about 6cyl Holden mounts,uni's or clutch kits.
When replacing a clutch that is completely stuffed you should ALWAYS machine flywheel so everything is nice and new,and never use a grinder or sander(worse still is the hi speed flex sander on a die grinder) very popular idea it seems when doing clutches ,end result is never flat and always ALWAYS leave tiny gouges and grooves which will damage your clutch plate very quickly,
"OH" did i say ALWAYS leaves gouges,"
Its amazing how many people will spend $200and up to $1000 on a new clutch kit yet baulk at $50 for their Flywheel machining,

With hot engines id advise anyone to also use ARP or similar Flywheel bolts(only cost about $25 a set, with locktight on thread,Cheap Insurance.

Edited by nicko61, 31 January 2011 - 07:59 AM.


#16 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 08:30 PM

or the flywheel is coming loose

+1 - Did you use new flywheel bolts? You shouldn't reuse flywheel bolts.

#17 greens nice

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:01 PM

if it was flywheel bolts they would have wound out far enough so that they touch the clutch plate, you would no longer be able to get gears.
also unlikely that they would come loose in his situation.

new clutch & machine flywheel.

#18 _Quagmire_

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:42 PM

check the simple things (eg mounts/unis) before going to the hassle of the gearbox out blah blah blah
(and most of that is visual/touchy feely)
you sure it's not the diff on it's way out?
i had a ve val with a REALLY FROCKED diff that did the same thing

#19 _WILDWOGZ_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 10:24 PM

well I finally got a chance to take the car for a drive today. Somehow, there was no shuddering from take off at all. I was short for time, but I will properly analyse when take it on a longer drive. But I couldn't believe it, everything felt fine. Its strange such a thing just happens though considering how recently everything was done. The last tune up was points, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, oil filter, oil change...the lot basically. Either way, next weekend I will be doing the gearbox, and diff oil aswell as a tune up. If I wasn't on historic rego I would have a Holley 350 and a nice set of extractors on by now :cry:

Forgot to add, the engine mounts were fine aswell


Edited by WILDWOGZ, 06 February 2011 - 10:25 PM.


#20 _Quagmire_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 11:03 PM

while your under it check the g/box mounts and front and back uni joints :buttrock:

#21 _robslxhatch_

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 06:16 AM

possibly moisture under the dizzy cap?? anyway with any luck it has fixed itself and you wont have to worry....




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