Am looking to gain a bit more room between the booster and cam cover.
Do you think I could get away with redrilling holes 10mm higher and 5mm outboard to gain the room I need. This is about the limit without pushing the booster off it's mounting bulge.
Will this apply too much stress either to the rod into the booster connection or the pedal joint??
Cheers
Bill
Moving Brake Booster??
Started by
_TOBES_
, May 09 2006 11:26 PM
12 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 12:07 AM
As long as the rod still pushes straight it should be fine
Whats the car ?
Pics ?
Whats the car ?
Pics ?
#3
_high_rpm_
_high_rpm_
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 12:29 AM
could always change to a remote booster like a vh40 or vh44
#4
_TOBES_
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 05:54 AM
The car is my UC/1UZ project. I am using the small Sunbird booster with a Comodore style 1" master cyl so I could delete the std proportioning valve. Huge brakes comming up so the small booster should be enough.
Thinking about it, the pedal end should only need a small tweek but, as the booster stays in the same plane when moved, the rod will probably enter the booster at an angle of less than 5 degrees. Should be OK???
Have pulled the motor back out to modify a few little bits and will have it back in its final position by the weekend so will post you some pics then...
Cheers
Thinking about it, the pedal end should only need a small tweek but, as the booster stays in the same plane when moved, the rod will probably enter the booster at an angle of less than 5 degrees. Should be OK???
Have pulled the motor back out to modify a few little bits and will have it back in its final position by the weekend so will post you some pics then...
Cheers
#5
rodomo
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 07:28 AM
Extra material removed from firewall and angle of pushrod may cause flexing and cracking of the firewall if not properly reinforced.
#6
Struggler
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 04:58 PM
If you look under the dash you will see you can't move it over 5mm or the bolts will collide with the sheet metal that holds the steering column.
I have seen one moved over 30mm, this then bolts up on the other side of the column support. You would need to suitably reinforce the mounting and build up the bolt up area closest to the inner guard. The pedal where the booster rod bolts on also needs to be built up to retain the straight pushrod action.Not impossible but a lot of work.
I have seen one moved over 30mm, this then bolts up on the other side of the column support. You would need to suitably reinforce the mounting and build up the bolt up area closest to the inner guard. The pedal where the booster rod bolts on also needs to be built up to retain the straight pushrod action.Not impossible but a lot of work.
#7
_70rey_
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 08:26 PM
is it true what they say about the vh40 or vh44...
ive herd that they are not as powerful as the bolt on ones.
ive herd that they are not as powerful as the bolt on ones.
#8
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 09:06 PM
With the money you are probably spending on this conversion, chuck the stock M/C and booster and get something custom made. That should give you all the room you need.
#9
dattoman
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Posted 10 May 2006 - 11:09 PM
What about a small 7" double diaphragm booster and the shorter XB master
I can get pics and dimensions if need be
I can get pics and dimensions if need be
#10
_TOBES_
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 09:51 AM
Hey Struggler, you sure know how to ruin a good idea using comon sense and keen observation. I never put brain in gear long enough to even consider the other side of the firewall 
Dattoman, I would love some details on the 7" booster/Mcyl combo...
I am using the 343mm DBA5000 discs and will come back to you about some details on the 6pot APcalipers you mentioned a while ago. Rear brakes are 300mm skyline and I would like to put AP 4pots on there too (bling, bling!). Might sound like I am spending half the national debit here but the DBA's only cost me $160 incl freight off TradeMe, done 1200km only, and the calipers should be a bolt on to the Commodore mount CRS stubs. The entire GTR rear end, incl brakes, cost$400 and I can sell the existing calipers/discs for $250 - $300. Hopefully I only need calipers, pads and lines which should be a around the same cost as Hoppers front and rear kits.
Thats the plan anyway???
Dattoman, I would love some details on the 7" booster/Mcyl combo...
I am using the 343mm DBA5000 discs and will come back to you about some details on the 6pot APcalipers you mentioned a while ago. Rear brakes are 300mm skyline and I would like to put AP 4pots on there too (bling, bling!). Might sound like I am spending half the national debit here but the DBA's only cost me $160 incl freight off TradeMe, done 1200km only, and the calipers should be a bolt on to the Commodore mount CRS stubs. The entire GTR rear end, incl brakes, cost$400 and I can sell the existing calipers/discs for $250 - $300. Hopefully I only need calipers, pads and lines which should be a around the same cost as Hoppers front and rear kits.
Thats the plan anyway???
#11
dattoman
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:12 AM
Sounds fair enough
I'll track down the dimensions and pics for you on that booster setup
Cheers
Neil
I'll track down the dimensions and pics for you on that booster setup
Cheers
Neil
#12
makka
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 05:09 PM
I hear of a lot of the hotrod guys using a Gemini booster because it is nice and small, I couldnt say I can remember what one looks like though
#13
dattoman
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 12:55 AM
The one I'm thinking of looks like a longer Gemini one
Heres a pic of it...... they come plain gold anodised too
Its 7" round by 5" long (work on 7.5" to be safe)
The Falcon cylinder pictured is 5" long too
Outlets on opposite side to Holden....... so even more clearance for your engine.
I don't have a mountin pattern yet but I'm working on it
You'd go straight to the firewall not with a bracket as shown..... its a Mustang kit shown
You would need to adapt a pushrod to the end of the threaded rod to connect to pedal though
Heres a pic of it...... they come plain gold anodised too
Its 7" round by 5" long (work on 7.5" to be safe)
The Falcon cylinder pictured is 5" long too
Outlets on opposite side to Holden....... so even more clearance for your engine.
I don't have a mountin pattern yet but I'm working on it
You'd go straight to the firewall not with a bracket as shown..... its a Mustang kit shown
You would need to adapt a pushrod to the end of the threaded rod to connect to pedal though
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