Hey guys
This may sound like a dumb question but at what point in your project should you apply fish oil to the car ?
I have heard a few diff things so i though i would put it out there.
Cheers
Fish Oiling
Started by
_Sneaky SLR_
, Feb 08 2011 07:28 AM
39 replies to this topic
#3
_Sneaky SLR_
_Sneaky SLR_
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 07:58 AM
Does it matter at what stage of the progect you apply it but?
#4
_CraigA_
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 08:29 AM
Any time after paint had settled down would be OK. Say a couple of weeks after paint application?
Just clean it down as much as possible where it runs out of the cavity's as once dry it can be a little hard to remove. Not impossible, just hard work.
Just clean it down as much as possible where it runs out of the cavity's as once dry it can be a little hard to remove. Not impossible, just hard work.
#5
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 10:48 AM
I would use the cavity wax instead of fishoil.
A rag soaked in fishoil can spontaneously combust so care should be taken in disposing of any rags used.
Spontaneously Combustible Material
A rag soaked in fishoil can spontaneously combust so care should be taken in disposing of any rags used.
Spontaneously Combustible Material
#6
_nial8r_
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 02:14 PM
that Waxgaurd looks the goods, gezz i must be getting old 
#7
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 05:39 PM
Fish oil is old tech, as has been said.
Cavity wax is the way of the future.
I use Tectyl 506.
To reply to the OP's question, after paint before assembly.
Cheers.
Cavity wax is the way of the future.
I use Tectyl 506.
To reply to the OP's question, after paint before assembly.
Cheers.
#8
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 February 2011 - 07:56 PM
we did it on "new" cars
just leave some clean rags under any drain holes for up to a week
and cleanup any leakage with metho/kero soaked on a rag asap
AND DON'T GET IT IN THE WINDOW RUNNERS
that's a bitch to clean up lol
just leave some clean rags under any drain holes for up to a week
and cleanup any leakage with metho/kero soaked on a rag asap
AND DON'T GET IT IN THE WINDOW RUNNERS
that's a bitch to clean up lol
Edited by Quagmire, 08 February 2011 - 07:57 PM.
#9
flygtr028
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:39 AM
Cavity wax is the way to go.
I am going to use a product called LPS Hardcoate corrosion inhibitor. Available through QEA Australia.
The application gun i have pruchased through Evic Paints, product no SGST01030.
I am going to use a product called LPS Hardcoate corrosion inhibitor. Available through QEA Australia.
The application gun i have pruchased through Evic Paints, product no SGST01030.
#10
_uctorry_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 01:28 PM
ok guys many different ones out there
i am wondering which is best or is it a personal preferrence
i am wondering which is best or is it a personal preferrence
#11
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 05:37 PM
I use Tectyl because its what we get at work therefore its free.
Also believe it was the original Endrust, but may be wrong.
Cheers.
Also believe it was the original Endrust, but may be wrong.
Cheers.
#12
Bathurst72
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:07 PM
Hi Tectyl is good for any screws which you put through the body. Firstly it gives you a little lubrication as most of the body holes are a little smaller after painting, and when you put the screw in most times it breaks the paint, therefore, the Tectyl will seal and protect the the broken paintin the hole and under the screw head.
As for fish oil, Iam old school, so, mix the fish oil with 50/50% INOX or WD40. This does several things. It makes the oil go further and It reduces the smell a little.
But more inportant is that it (due to the INOX or WD) pulls the fish oil into all of the seems, capiliary action, due to the viscosity of the fish oil is increased. Also fish oil hardens (skins over) and if you apply fish oil again (say in a couple of years) it will not seep into the seems, but just sits on top, not doing much at all. With the 50/50 mix, the INOX/WD will soften the old stuff and will then again seep into the joints.
Try it without INOX/WD and with, you will see the difference and be sold on the 50/50 mix.
I hope this helps.
cheers
Steve
As for fish oil, Iam old school, so, mix the fish oil with 50/50% INOX or WD40. This does several things. It makes the oil go further and It reduces the smell a little.
But more inportant is that it (due to the INOX or WD) pulls the fish oil into all of the seems, capiliary action, due to the viscosity of the fish oil is increased. Also fish oil hardens (skins over) and if you apply fish oil again (say in a couple of years) it will not seep into the seems, but just sits on top, not doing much at all. With the 50/50 mix, the INOX/WD will soften the old stuff and will then again seep into the joints.
Try it without INOX/WD and with, you will see the difference and be sold on the 50/50 mix.
I hope this helps.
cheers
Steve
#13
marko1au
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:12 PM
Correct me if i'm wrong but,I was under the understanding that wd 40 is fish oil
#14
_CraigA_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:40 PM
I used Waxguard on my own FC Holden about 8 years ago when I restored it. Put it in every cavity and everywhere. Filled the sills and let it sit.
After 8 years no repairs have resurfaced except a small bubble where the rear quarter meets the rear wheel arch. Somewhere you would never get any product no matter the viscosity.
Each to their own, time will be the best test.
After 8 years no repairs have resurfaced except a small bubble where the rear quarter meets the rear wheel arch. Somewhere you would never get any product no matter the viscosity.
Each to their own, time will be the best test.
#15
stealthxu1
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:51 PM
what is the best method of removing fishoil off paint work that has been on the paint for 3years???
#16
_CraigA_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:56 PM
Goo Off, get it from Bunnings. I am just using it to remove Waxguard from underneath a car that is an Ivory colour.
Not fun.
Not fun.
#17
TerrA LX
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 10:24 PM
I'm tending to go with Bathurst72, fishoil cocktail.
#18
_Kush_
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 07:54 AM
I used the same wax that bomber is talking about. It's fantastic stuff but I don't think it will matter what brand it is. Wax is wax.
I did a test with it on a piece of 1.2mm plate. I sprayed half of the piece in wax and left it out in the open for a few days.
Well, the wet season hit and after about 3 weeks I remembered that I left that piece out in the back yard. So I wandered out to have a look, the waxy side looked as new as when I first applied it. I cover everything in it now
I did a test with it on a piece of 1.2mm plate. I sprayed half of the piece in wax and left it out in the open for a few days.
Well, the wet season hit and after about 3 weeks I remembered that I left that piece out in the back yard. So I wandered out to have a look, the waxy side looked as new as when I first applied it. I cover everything in it now
#19
71xu1
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 12:28 PM
I can't remember how many times this has come up now on the forum. Fish oil is dead cavity wax far surpasses what fish oil and cocktails of fish oil can do. I have done several test with fish oil as compared to cavity wax it's scary how little fish oil does as compared to cavity wax. But I guess each to his own.
#20
_Quagmire_
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 12:59 PM
worked in the trade 5 years ago
and we never used fish oil or any sort of cocktail
just wax
mmmm
i think that says it all
and we never used fish oil or any sort of cocktail
just wax
mmmm
i think that says it all
#21
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 01:39 PM
Wax cocktails are good to.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#22
_Quagmire_
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 02:55 PM
long island iced teas are the only cocktails i like lol
#23
_Sneaky SLR_
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Posted 11 February 2011 - 06:32 AM
long island iced teas are the only cocktails i like lol
Yeah they are rather good hits me a little hard the next day but lol
So could you apply this wax before paint?
#25
_Quagmire_
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Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:49 AM
No. After paint
YEP
and don't have it near panels while you are painting
it can react and screw your paint job
make sure you have no silly cone products hanging around too
you can thin it down to get it to apply better
not sure if we ever did at work but
as it was hooked up to a 20 odd litre drum and wierd spay gun
when i did it
Edited by Quagmire, 11 February 2011 - 11:53 AM.
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