Hey all
Ive dragged the hatch out after 2 years of it sittin collecting dust, ive decided to race it one more time before i sell it
Its off havin the rust repaired so im now after some advice to get this thing to hook up!!
Suspension as it sits now
lovells springs all round
2 inch lower in the rear
the fronts ive had re-set lower so around 2.5-3inch
Koni shockers all round Set in the middle on there adjustment
Bigish Sways bars front and rear
Rear control arms boxed
What can i do to help this thing hook up
Previously had 235mt street radials and it just smokes them! unless i just half throttle till i get momentum n then nail it and then gas it (nitrous_)
Any help would be great.
Help with my suspension
Started by
Stedz_lc
, Feb 09 2011 08:50 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Stedz_lc
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:50 PM
#2
_fryzem_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:53 PM
raise the rear a smidge. and put soft rear springs and 90/10 front shocks to begin with and maybe even a set of 50/50 rear shocks. then put some upper adjustable control arms and send the pinion angle south that will help in a big way
#3
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:45 PM
tyres could be old and hard aswell causing traction problems.
#4
MRLXSS
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- Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:48 PM
Flares + Bigger Tyres! LOL
That'd look phat!
That'd look phat!
#5
Posted 10 February 2011 - 06:16 AM
How big is a bigish rear sway bar? Might be worth removing to see if it makes any difference. The lowered springs are presumably quite solid which isn't going to help, if you want to muck with the shocks set the fronts soft and the rears firm
#6
warrenm
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Posted 10 February 2011 - 07:27 AM
Remove the front sway bar to loosen the front up, fit std 6cyl front springs. Is this manual or auto.
#7
_coupe202_
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Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:43 PM
I would be fitting 90/10 shocks and 4cyl springs up and std sway bar up front, on the rear 50/50 shocks and a soft spring on the rear and maybe your tyre pressures where to high on the M/T tyres.
#8
_TorYoda_
_TorYoda_
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Posted 20 March 2011 - 06:40 PM
Lose the front bar entirely and fit the stiffest rear bar you can get your hands on. The front bar is your enemy! By trying to prevent the car from twisting over it allows the driveshaft to torque the rear axle housing causing the right hand tyre to unload and the rear of the car will step left and then spin. Allowing the front to move with no restriction and controlling twist at the rear as much as possible will assit the car to launch in a straight line with minimal spin by allowing both rear wheels to get the same grip on the racing surface. A long soft spring with plenty of sag in the front with a 90/10 or shagged stock shock will lift the nose rapidly and help weight transfer to the rear . Around 50/50 60/40 shock in the rear also with a long soft spring. You need at least 4" of sag in the rear spring for it to work effectively. No need for adjustable arms. If you point the pinion down at an extreme angle on a 4 link car it merely increases the chances of twisting the shaft out of the diff yoke or transmission. If possible raise the mounting point on the diff for the rear upper control arms by 40mm or so, the increased angle of the upper arms will help drive the tyres down into the ground (negating squat in the rear) as the torque is applied to them during the launch. I have run consistent mid 11 second times with a small block Chrysler on 205 radials (at 20psi) in an LX sedan using this exact setup. It ran 1.76 second 60" times with full throttle launches. The car had 3.36 gears in the diff.
It IS possible..... I have done this plenty of times and even those watching it happen at the track find it difficult to believe even after seeing it. Good luck at the track!
It IS possible..... I have done this plenty of times and even those watching it happen at the track find it difficult to believe even after seeing it. Good luck at the track!
Edited by TorYoda, 20 March 2011 - 06:44 PM.
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