I got a Quote for my Rust and it was $6000!!!!!........i was shocked that it was gonna be this much but that is only if i go with the Panel Beater....which i decided not to now.....but i have a family friend who is a panel beater who owns his own shop in his backyard in Adelaide.....so he might do it for $2000 instead but its still gonna take a huge money payout from my bank......but all i can say it is worth it....
The rust is the sill panel, where the door is connected to the car, little bits of rust on the left side door, on the left side door sill panel, back of the boot just under it.....(i could just take photos of it and show ya) btw the drivers side sill panel has hole because of the rust
I got a Quote for My Rust
Started by
gooley
, May 11 2006 11:42 AM
21 replies to this topic
#1
gooley
-
- Members
-
- 529 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Jason
- Location:Adelaide, SA
- Car:Holden Torana LC 1970 Coupe
- Joined: 07-March 06
Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:42 AM
#2
_MYLJ_
_MYLJ_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:53 AM
Put up some pics of the rust, dents, etc.
was the price just for the bodywork or did that include painting as well?
was the price just for the bodywork or did that include painting as well?
#3
gooley
-
- Members
-
- 529 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Jason
- Location:Adelaide, SA
- Car:Holden Torana LC 1970 Coupe
- Joined: 07-March 06
Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:59 AM
na thats was with no paint at all its just for the rust all together and thats it....
Pics Coming Soon later today
Pics Coming Soon later today
#4
DanWA
-
- Members
-
- 2,440 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Southwest W.A
- Car:LS1 LX 4 Door
- Joined: 27-April 06
Posted 11 May 2006 - 12:27 PM
Sounds like they just hate rust so wacking bigger price tag on for the mess around... know a few panelbeaters/painters and they all hate rust and would do the same thing... you could probably get a better shell for the cost of most rust repairs!
#5
gooley
-
- Members
-
- 529 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Jason
- Location:Adelaide, SA
- Car:Holden Torana LC 1970 Coupe
- Joined: 07-March 06
Posted 11 May 2006 - 12:32 PM
Behind Rear Left Wheel
Driver Side - Door
Rear Corner of Boot
Driver Side Sill Panel - Rusthole
Passenger Side Door
Passenger Side - Under Door
Btw the hole in that photo looks much better from inside...you look under the car where the hole is and it is not a pretty site too much rust...at work i put it on the hoist and i couldnt go thru with it as the hoist was crumbling the rust.....
with the sill panel he said that i have to go to Rare Spares and buy a plate for the driver side
Edited by gooley, 11 May 2006 - 12:35 PM.
#6
DanWA
-
- Members
-
- 2,440 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Southwest W.A
- Car:LS1 LX 4 Door
- Joined: 27-April 06
Posted 11 May 2006 - 12:36 PM
owch thats got rust in some bad spots... the under the door part you can buy a replacement section from rare spares... suggest a new door... boot maybe a problem i have no ideas for that lol
#7
smeer
-
- Members
-
- 1,526 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Car:1970 LC 4-door
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 11 May 2006 - 01:40 PM
Whoa, inside the drivers door like that? Never seen that rust first.
are you SURE thats ALL the rust? You might invest a few hundred dollars to strip the shell bare and see what you find before you spend so much cash to repair what you can see coming through the paint.
are you SURE thats ALL the rust? You might invest a few hundred dollars to strip the shell bare and see what you find before you spend so much cash to repair what you can see coming through the paint.
#8
_Loki_
_Loki_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 02:34 PM
$2k for a cash in hand backyard job?
That sounds expensive still.
I'd do it myself if it were gonna cost $2k
...
All I'm gauging by though is ::
I had a car that I got stretched on the anchor/robot, dogleg cut out and replacement welded in with welds impressively hidden in folds out of view (no idea how the hell the PB managed to do it but it's the work of a god), dents removed, for $700 cash in hand.
That sounds expensive still.
I'd do it myself if it were gonna cost $2k
...All I'm gauging by though is ::
I had a car that I got stretched on the anchor/robot, dogleg cut out and replacement welded in with welds impressively hidden in folds out of view (no idea how the hell the PB managed to do it but it's the work of a god), dents removed, for $700 cash in hand.
Edited by Loki, 11 May 2006 - 02:39 PM.
#9
_CHOPPER_
_CHOPPER_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 06:35 PM
If panel beaters get a job they don't want to do, they give you a price you won't want to pay so you piss off and leave them alone.
#10
_MYLJ_
_MYLJ_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 07:05 PM
looks like there will be more rust to repair than is showing, it looks like it has been "bogged up" at some stage of its life and if there's rust showing in those places there will be more rust in other area's as well. As has been suggested "get it stripped first" then the real amount of repair work required will be assertainable.
As for $6k tell him he's dreaming...........more like $3k painted (in acrylic and a bit more for 2k
) unless the rest of the body is stuffed under the remaining paint, then it would be cheaper to find another shell 
As for $6k tell him he's dreaming...........more like $3k painted (in acrylic and a bit more for 2k
) unless the rest of the body is stuffed under the remaining paint, then it would be cheaper to find another shell
#11
_Herne_
_Herne_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 07:26 PM
Gee just look at those prices....And I offered Matts hatch shell at a mere $3,500 which is what it cost us from CHEVED (he did all the repairs) On top of that Matt offered his full quality flare kit which cost $880.00 at no extra charge...
I think I will put Matts hatch up at $5k.... $3,500 is obvioulsy too cheap...
As it happens a friend of mine who builds show cars here in Canberra valued Matts shell at $5,500 low end price..... Looks like he was well on the mark.
CHEVED did us proud.
Cheers
Herne
I think I will put Matts hatch up at $5k.... $3,500 is obvioulsy too cheap...
As it happens a friend of mine who builds show cars here in Canberra valued Matts shell at $5,500 low end price..... Looks like he was well on the mark.
CHEVED did us proud.
Cheers
Herne
#12
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 07:34 PM
Judging by your pics and not seeing the car I can see why they would want to charge the price they have quoted.
You'd want the rust repaired correctly and have the work guaranteed as well im assuming.
$6000 divided by a conservative hourly rate of $50/hr (most restoration shops will charge higher normally $70-90/hr, keep in mind the price a plumber or electrician charges an hour before scoffing at that then consider computer techs hourly rate)
This gives you 120 hours @ $50/hr = $6000, 120hours is 3 working weeks
If you owned the shop why on earth would you want to tie up a decent tradesman on a job for 3 weeks and not make any money out of him? They've got bills to pay and families to feed as well.
I know its a shock but considering the extent of the rust once the paint is off its only going to get worse and you will get a phone call asking you to come and have another look at the car and the bill will be higher.
My advice?????...........spend $1500-2000 on some decent tools like a nice Mig Welder, a small sheet metal folder & roller, a heap of vice grips and hand tools and enrol yourself in a TAFE course and do it yourself, at the end of it all you'll rest in the knowledge your car is repaired properly and you'll also have a shed full of tools that you will continually use the rest of your life.
You'd want the rust repaired correctly and have the work guaranteed as well im assuming.
$6000 divided by a conservative hourly rate of $50/hr (most restoration shops will charge higher normally $70-90/hr, keep in mind the price a plumber or electrician charges an hour before scoffing at that then consider computer techs hourly rate)
This gives you 120 hours @ $50/hr = $6000, 120hours is 3 working weeks
If you owned the shop why on earth would you want to tie up a decent tradesman on a job for 3 weeks and not make any money out of him? They've got bills to pay and families to feed as well.
I know its a shock but considering the extent of the rust once the paint is off its only going to get worse and you will get a phone call asking you to come and have another look at the car and the bill will be higher.
My advice?????...........spend $1500-2000 on some decent tools like a nice Mig Welder, a small sheet metal folder & roller, a heap of vice grips and hand tools and enrol yourself in a TAFE course and do it yourself, at the end of it all you'll rest in the knowledge your car is repaired properly and you'll also have a shed full of tools that you will continually use the rest of your life.
#13
barny_lx
-
- Members
-
- 599 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Country South Australia
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 11 May 2006 - 07:50 PM
EXACTLY RIGHTIf panel beaters get a job they don't want to do, they give you a price you won't want to pay so you piss off and leave them alone.
To you its your pride and joy, and yeah it seems like a nice car. BUt to a panel beater who earns a average wage and yeah its a dogs job really its just a rusty piece of bguckin shit .
How much did you pay for the car? and did you know it was so rusty?
My adive would be to srip it properly, dont pay say $3500 -$4000 which is alot of money especially for an apprentice for a rust repair job. paint job and then in a few months you have rust appearing in other areas
STRIP it fully, my money is on it will be rusty as and would be easier to start with another shell.
orr.. just enjoy it how it is, use it as a nice daily driver, look after it and then when you come to sell it in a few years it hasnt cost you much and you would get bakc most of what you spent on it !
cheers
Barns
#14
Toranamat69
-
- Members
-
- 2,117 posts
Forum R&D Officer
- Location:Brisbane
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 11 May 2006 - 07:51 PM
That is a shite load of rust in some real bitches of spots too - If I were a panel shop - I would also charge every cent of that $6K for that Job - Some of you guys obviously havnt had any prefessional panel work done recently.
My experience in Brissy is you are doing well if you can even find one who will take on rust work full stop - not even getting into prices.
How many panel shops have you been into where they ask "�s this for insurance?"
And if you answer no - they refuse to quote??
That is common place at about half of the panel shops around brisbane.
Wonder who they make their $$$ from.
My experience in Brissy is you are doing well if you can even find one who will take on rust work full stop - not even getting into prices.
How many panel shops have you been into where they ask "�s this for insurance?"
And if you answer no - they refuse to quote??
That is common place at about half of the panel shops around brisbane.
Wonder who they make their $$$ from.
#15
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 08:10 PM
Panel shops in Brisbane are working for the same hourly rate as they were in 1991.........how many other professions are still working on the same hourly rate they were 15+ years ago?
If you are looking to make money there is a million better businesses to own than a panel shop, Most shops would tell insurance companies where to go if there was other options to obtain work where people were prepared to pay for it.
You can normally tell when people come in for a quote that you will never see the job anyway as they will go to 10 different shops and arent interested in paying for their car to be repaired properly, only to either get the cheapest price to fix it or the biggest amount of money they can get out of the 3rd party who hit them and they will never have their car repaired they will just pocket the cash. Why waste 10-20mins quoting a job when you could be working on a paying job or at least quoting on something you'll have a chance of winning.
When someone finds out can they let me know, I'd like to get a pay rise...hehehe
Like I said earlier the best way to do it is to invest in yourself, all you need is some knowledge which is readily available at TAFE colleges, some well selected tools, a good work area and a determination to get the job done right.
If you are looking to make money there is a million better businesses to own than a panel shop, Most shops would tell insurance companies where to go if there was other options to obtain work where people were prepared to pay for it.
How many panel shops have you been into where they ask "�s this for insurance?"
And if you answer no - they refuse to quote??
You can normally tell when people come in for a quote that you will never see the job anyway as they will go to 10 different shops and arent interested in paying for their car to be repaired properly, only to either get the cheapest price to fix it or the biggest amount of money they can get out of the 3rd party who hit them and they will never have their car repaired they will just pocket the cash. Why waste 10-20mins quoting a job when you could be working on a paying job or at least quoting on something you'll have a chance of winning.
Wonder who they make their $$$ from.
When someone finds out can they let me know, I'd like to get a pay rise...hehehe
Like I said earlier the best way to do it is to invest in yourself, all you need is some knowledge which is readily available at TAFE colleges, some well selected tools, a good work area and a determination to get the job done right.
#16
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 08:59 PM
All i can say is you get what you pay for. I would be shopping around, and try and find a pannel beater who is interested in old cars, because if you find someone who actually gives a stuff about it, and cares about the job, you will get a better job even if you have to pay more.
But watch out mate. I've been bitten by bad pannel beaters before and i am sure others out there have stories as well.
Steve
But watch out mate. I've been bitten by bad pannel beaters before and i am sure others out there have stories as well.
Steve
#17
_torana_
_torana_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 May 2006 - 10:04 PM
step 1: fish oil and bog ( so you can still rego and drive )
step 2: buy/beg/steal a mig, a grinder, and some vice clamps
step 3: do a tafe mig course ( or practice on old panels/bonnets )
step 4: do a bit every now and then
step 5: spend your $5k to $6k on paint, wheels, driveline and interior.
step 6: drive it!
step 2: buy/beg/steal a mig, a grinder, and some vice clamps
step 3: do a tafe mig course ( or practice on old panels/bonnets )
step 4: do a bit every now and then
step 5: spend your $5k to $6k on paint, wheels, driveline and interior.
step 6: drive it!
#18
gooley
-
- Members
-
- 529 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Jason
- Location:Adelaide, SA
- Car:Holden Torana LC 1970 Coupe
- Joined: 07-March 06
Posted 12 May 2006 - 08:23 AM
Btw this was the 1st Panel Beater Shop i seen and is the 1st Quote i have been given.....so dont get ya hopes up that im actually paying this much....but some members asked how much i bought it for and i payed a total of $3200 for it LC Torana..........i only went to that crash repairer as there was a HQ Monaro in front of it so i thought oh yeah they might do mine for cheap but guess what i found out they dont.......but the backyard panel beater that im am gonna go to, builds Vintage Cars and his son a a Torana cant remember if it was LC or LJ but it is Pink too........but it is very nice car too....so he is experienced with Toranas.....
#19
lakeside
-
- Members
-
- 2,703 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Name:Col
- Location:melb
- Car:LC SBC
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 12 May 2006 - 02:00 PM
i'm getting none of my lc 2drs done at the moment. It's a real good shell to start with and my panel beater has been 20 days on it so far and 10 to go, i reckon. Not alot of money $6000 at a panel shop. My mate thinks it would cost $20,000 min to get a lc?lj looking good. Gooley, don't pull the windows out, it might shock you
#20
_Herne_
_Herne_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2006 - 02:21 PM
By the sounds and looks of it, I humbly reckon the glass needs to come out and the pillars need to be inspected as it is an ideal place for rust to do it's work unseen.snip
Gooley, don't pull the windows out, it might shock you
Cheers
Herne
#21
_gtr161s_
_gtr161s_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2006 - 08:24 PM
The drivers door pillar is a big job, the other repairs are relatively easy.
The best way to fix the door pillar will be to find a complete replacement pillar.thats what i have just done.
The door pillar is made up of 3 sections of sheet, so when they got rust in the windscreen it made its way to lay between the sheet and the rest is history.
If you can weld buy a mig for 700-800 then with some practice you would be surprised what you'll achieve
The best way to fix the door pillar will be to find a complete replacement pillar.thats what i have just done.
The door pillar is made up of 3 sections of sheet, so when they got rust in the windscreen it made its way to lay between the sheet and the rest is history.
If you can weld buy a mig for 700-800 then with some practice you would be surprised what you'll achieve
#22
_toddy_
_toddy_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2006 - 08:57 PM
hey mate make shure you dont get stung...... I got stung twice and I am now doing all the panel work myself.
I had a mate who is a qualified panel beater and he was not going to charge me much as he wanted me to help.... I did everything....He did put some more dents in the car actually... but thats another story...
My point is it's not that hard you just need to be patient....
I got ripped 2.5k from my first panel beater and the job wasnt good enough....
I have also been quoted $5000 + for a show quality paint job (spraying only) paint is extra
You only get what you pay for if you want a show quality job then you are going to have to pay...... Or learn how to do it yourself....
My advice save your money and do it your self
you can allways grind out welds and sand off bog if you stuff it up.
but if someone else does it for you then you dont have much of a chance of getting it fixed when you complain....
I had a mate who is a qualified panel beater and he was not going to charge me much as he wanted me to help.... I did everything....He did put some more dents in the car actually... but thats another story...
My point is it's not that hard you just need to be patient....
I got ripped 2.5k from my first panel beater and the job wasnt good enough....
I have also been quoted $5000 + for a show quality paint job (spraying only) paint is extra
You only get what you pay for if you want a show quality job then you are going to have to pay...... Or learn how to do it yourself....
My advice save your money and do it your self
you can allways grind out welds and sand off bog if you stuff it up.
but if someone else does it for you then you dont have much of a chance of getting it fixed when you complain....
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
