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Cactus Coil


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#1 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 05:42 PM

Think my poor ole HEI coil has thrown it in. Very stuttery at high speed under load, occaisionally balks and tacho starts heading to 0 RPM, today up the highway engine cut right out. Roll started it again at 80km/h in second (squirmed a bit). Coming round the round-a-bout this afternoon dude showed me how good his Subby goes (it's a rally car). No match, but once into fourth, the Torrie did a baulk, a huge backfire just near ADFA, and covered the poor Subby in smoke. Going by the feedback on the tacho, I'm thinking dud coil.

Did we get anywhere in working out what's a good HEI coil to use? Currently got the Bosche HEI solid state (deformed looking type) coil.

#2 FastEHHolden

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 05:53 PM

I'm in the same boat....except mine cut out on a bend next to a servo last night and i got to show how well i parallel park at 60 kph...lets just say with practise it could be better..lost the back end 30 meter slide ended up resting against a traffic island....who would have thought a buggered coil could be dangerous?

#3 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 06:28 PM

Hehehe, EH you crack me up.

Anyways, been looking for alternatives to Bosch, has anybody had any luck with Accel AC/Delco, or Haltech? Like the Accel AC/Delco one, it's Yella, gotta be a good thing. Damn dudes don't seem to have their own website though.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 13 May 2006 - 06:28 PM.


#4 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 06:57 PM

Actually, could be the module, Bosche mentions the same symptoms that I'm experiencing, breaking down under load, and misfiring at high RPM. Might go grab a new module first and see how it goes.

Just the intermittent nature of the problem, I'm pretty sure it is electrical/ignition.

#5 FastEHHolden

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:36 PM

did your tacho jump around before?...I had an analouge tacho that worked fine on the old points setup I had..then I swapped to HEI and it was never steady..always jumped but no miss ect..then that tacho died and i fitted a digital tacho and it would never stay still either....then last week the engine started to have the odd miss on acceleration and at high speed..now its anytime.

I seem to remember in the old forums the finger was pointed at the module for the unsteady tacho...I will replace the module..if that doesn't work i'll do the coil. I have all the parts here...luckily cos now I have to spring for a wheel alignment.

#6 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:43 PM

It was steady till the gremlins started creaping in. Since then it's been a bit eradic, particularly at high revs. Is there much to changing over the module? I'm assumming it's pretty straight forward. Unfortunately the Torrie manuals don't have modules in em!!! I hate not knowing what i'm going to be up against.

All signs are pointing to the module.

^ Amount of eraticness appears to be directly proportional to increased gremlins.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 13 May 2006 - 07:44 PM.


#7 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:50 PM

Might change my tacho name to an EMFWD (Early Module Failure Warning Device).

Looks like I'm going to be playing cars tomorrow.

Also noticed the Autoelec swapped the tacho to the positive pole when he switched it to the correct polarity. Might change that over back to the negative as well.

#8 FastEHHolden

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:55 PM

easy as...you are meant to steer clear of getting the grease on you that is under the module...its 2 phillips heads and 4 terminals and your done.

#9 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 08:07 PM

Thanks FastEH, looking at the pics seemed that easy. So it's all just wiring, no settings/clearances to worry about?

#10 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:30 PM

The backfire that the car put out was damn huge! It was just near the Defence Force College (ADFA), on twighlight, and put out a bright flash and humungous bang. Didn't go back to see if there was little Defence Force johnnies running around the place.

Yella puts it in his book, Ole Yella backfires real good when it's cranky.

#11 FastEHHolden

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:38 PM

I'm a defence force Johnny..we love that kind of stuff. :tease:

Its that easy no clearance no nothing.

#12 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:42 PM

Most likely is your module.
Coils typically work or dont work, but not saying it shouldnt be ruled out as a cause of the symptoms.
Pick up coil(its inside the dizzy) can fail too, it should basically have a working not working nature, however, if the soldered ends are breaking down, they can be intermittent in nature too........I chased this one down on one of mine.......EH coming to the rescue with a new coil.
Dizzy module, new ignition coil and pickup coil are all about the same price in a parts shop ~$60-70.
Perhaps getting another ign coil off another car to see if that is the prob might pinpoint where the prob is b4 spending any money.

#13 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:54 PM

Maybe Pat should visit Alan and see if he could borrow some bits to track down the problem. Cheaper to borrow the wrong part than to buy it.

#14 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 10:02 PM

Coil was a brand spanker, albeit a while back now. From what I've read hear and there, I'm thinking it's the module. Mmm, yeah, Herne does have his car in bits ATM!!! :)

Actually, I have an old style oil filled HEI coil in the shed.

How is it that you are 600 posts in front?

Edited by Yella SLuR, 13 May 2006 - 10:04 PM.


#15 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 10:15 PM

Possibly because I've made 610 more posts than you. Mind you, I'm a fair way behind some of the leadership team. I wonder if having a big post count is setting the example they want us to follow?

I would check the coil first, as it would be an easier and quicker job. Just because the coil isn't very old doesn't mean it's 100% OK. New parts can fail too, remember.

#16 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 10:22 PM

I hear ya. I'll have a play tomorrow. Looks like the wife's car service has to wait till next w/e ---> priorities.

#17 rodomo

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 12:04 AM

My experience with roadside breakdowns tells me module, having said that the solid state bosch coils are not known for reliability or long life compared to oil filled. I have been to a car that the coil failed on and the module failed as well as a result. Generally the fairchild module (this module is common to holden, ford falcon and telstar, corolla, sigma and magna to name a few) is good for around 150000k's, but as you have the dodgey coil as well I would change both. Devil is right, with my experience coils generally die and don't come back. Modules can fail while working due to heat but within a few seconds can cool enough to work again. That would explain your backfire and flameout. Loose module securing screws can cause this fault too as it makes the earth for the transistor intermitant or non existant. Yours would be difficult to diagnose roadside as it still runs, but you could check values across coil and module as per manual.
Good luck!

Edited by rodomo, 14 May 2006 - 12:13 AM.


#18 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 05:23 AM

I agree with devilsadvocate and rodomo, most likely your module. From what you have described about the operation of the tacho (tacho starts heading towards 0) it looks like the module is to blame.

If the coil was at fault and not the module/distributor then the tacho should be reading fine and not operating as you have described.

Edited by antelopeslr5000, 14 May 2006 - 05:26 AM.


#19 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 06:42 PM

Hehehe. The official answer as far as the Director of Finance is that it was the Module!

The real answer is, it was a loose connection on the coil (spade bit). I started taking the dizzy apart, then noticed a wire flopping round. Just crimped it up, and put it back onto the flat connector on the coil, making sure it was nice and secure.

Anyways, a 20 year old module, was prolly due for replacement anyways. The new modules are of a revised design in the heatsink, so I was happy replacing it anyways.

The result, 5,500 RPM every gear (except top), no problem.

Damn Torries, found out a second problem with electronic dizzies. Module cover hits second drip tray/brake line further down. Had to loosen the dizzy and twist it to get it off.

#20 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 09:29 PM

Forgot to add, tacho is moving nicely all the way up the dial. Before it got twitchy at 3,500 RPM, even though it felt as though I had power the whole time. So if you have electronic ignition, and an erratic tacho, check your coil connections, then check your module connections, although you will need some new heat conducting silicone if you check the module (and it's a pain to get to on the torries). The pink and green wire run from the coil directly to the module.

Still can be a dodgey tacho though, but worth having a fiddle to see anyways.

Personally, I've never had a problem with the tacho and electronic ignition, till this event.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 14 May 2006 - 09:31 PM.


#21 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 09:57 PM

The real answer is, it was a loose connection on the coil.

As I said, check the coil first. It's normally the simple things ( women ) that cause the most problems.

#22 FastEHHolden

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 12:38 PM

and mine was the coil too....found out on the way to work...lucky I threw my box of coils and dizzys in for the trip. :clap:

#23 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 02:33 PM

Don't ya just love Happy endings?

#24 FastEHHolden

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 02:49 PM

I don't know if doing your own road service in the rain and being late to work is a happy ending.

#25 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 04:16 PM

You get rain where you live? Oh well, look on the bright side, at least you've found the problem.




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