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355 stroker


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#1 _oldskool_

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 05:56 PM

I am hoping someone can give me the right info needed to build 355 stroker, i have an lx 4 door with a 308 black motor from a vl com in it .I was looking at buying a 355 scat stroker kit for it ,but made enquiries through the machine shop we use at work for our engine rebuilding about machining and clearancing the block for the crank to rotate without fouling.They said early blocks can't be used because of the water jackets break through if you try and clearance the bottom of cylinders for the journals to clear on rotation.Hoping someone has done such modification and if so would appreciate some input as i don't really want to be wasting money on new block if not correct.

#2 76lxhatch

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 06:56 PM

Oddball occurrences aside there should be plenty of room for a normal 355 setup with any block, very little grinding needs to be done to gain suitable clearance.

#3 ACJ

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 10:44 PM

Comes racing do a DVD with all that information



#4 warrenm

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 07:16 AM

The VT block has the clearance areas cast in from the factory.

#5 MRLXSS

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 08:47 AM

Cost me $200 to have my block clearanced for a 355 crank... I'm using a VN 5.0L Block.

#6 _Quagmire_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 09:32 AM

someones having a lend of you mate
brocky did em with vk blocks
it's just a die grinder job from what i've read

#7 ACJ

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 10:12 AM

Depending on the parts you use, even 355 with H beam rod in a red block can go through and you mite be lucky and go 396 with I beam rod and not go through.

Most people that go through tack too much out, Clearancing need very little.

Don�t panic if you do go through as it very fixable .

Ring comes racing and sound interested in there 396 stroker they will send you a DVD with all that information it will tell you all that you need to now.



#8 _Quagmire_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 10:31 AM

while your at come
price up thier kits
apparently there of better quality than the scat and eagle kits nowdays

#9 _uctorry_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 03:00 PM

Yep someone is having a lend of you
Quagmire is on the ball just a die grinder is all u need

#10 _oldskool_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 08:07 PM

Thanks for all the info i probably will give come a call and see what their kits are worth, i too have heard they are a good bit of gear and don't want to fork out heaps of money for something else that isn't up to it.have any of you guys got the scat set up with cast crank as they are reasonably priced and i was curious if they were any good.

#11 _Quagmire_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 08:30 PM

scat and eagle are still better than the one starting with p that shount be named
harrop is another that is sposed to be good

#12 MRLXSS

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 08:33 PM

Scat cranks aren't too bad from what I have heard.... Steer clear of procomp and I have also heard a few bad stories about the eagle cranks.

I went for a COME crank, with Scat I Beam Rods and Forged pistons for my 355...

Harrop and CSR are the best Cranks.

#13 bluea9x

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 09:09 PM

Hi oldskool here is my vk group a block i did you can use any 308 block for a 355 good luck with it

Attached Files



#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 09:22 PM

mmmm food for thought
anyone know if the 333 strokers are the same?

#15 _oldskool_

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 09:23 PM

Thanks Guys
At least know i'm not going into it without any idea,the photo's are a great help as know i can see what material needs to be removed and although im far from an expert it doesn't seem as though it would jepodise the strengh of the block to remove that amount of metal.

#16 _nemo355v8_

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 08:58 PM

mmmm food for thought
anyone know if the 333 strokers are the same?

no clearencing needed for a 333 stroker, well mine didnt any way

#17 _stcos85_

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 07:19 PM

Sorry to hijack this thread but been reading this and have been looking at getting my 308 rebuilt to a 355. With the 355 stroker kits at a fairly reasonable price where is the cost in building one of these up as the figures i have been quoted to build one seem out of proportion to the cost of the parts or have i missed something.
What sort of money would i have to pay for machining. I have a set of rebuilt heads so dont need these

#18 _rocket_

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 07:40 PM

Just going through this exercise now, 355 scat crank 400, h beams 500, balancing, dry sump conversion,relieve for crank,reco heads only,srp pistons forged,comp roller cam, crane roller lifters,all assembled etc,dry sump pan, pump tank , and all the lines etc total 9000

#19 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 07:48 PM

Thats a good price for a roller camed dry sumped plastic.

Keen to see the result.

VN heads?

Cheeres.

#20 _rocket_

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 08:01 PM

No, just my L34 style, still using the webers and all the original stuff, but it will be reliable on slicks, no oiling issues, and make good power to 6500rpm.Its a VK 308 black commodore block I got off Rowan (aggro) a couple of yrs ago, bored out 20 thou.

#21 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 08:23 PM

Ah ok. Should be a treat mate.

Cheers.

#22 A9X

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 12:46 PM


mmmm food for thought
anyone know if the 333 strokers are the same?

no clearencing needed for a 333 stroker, well mine didnt any way


same here although mine is 321 or something

#23 _Quagmire_

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 12:40 AM



mmmm food for thought
anyone know if the 333 strokers are the same?

no clearencing needed for a 333 stroker, well mine didnt any way


same here although mine is 321 or something


ok
so what's the rod size?
6" or 5.7"?
i need some veniers and light i thinks
sorry for the tread jack




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