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Ecotec VS Allotyec


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#1 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 04:40 PM

Getting a new daily driver soon looking at vy/vz commodore utes with either the 3.8 ecotec(VY)or 3.6 alloytec(VZ) im leaning towards the ecotec(VY)atm as i know my way round them better then the alloytecs wil be used a daily wont be getting flogged or modified in anyway im over not having luxuries like A/C and a heater and wipers that work :buttrock:

Also auto or manual opninions aswell please

cheers dennis

Edited by SLR Goat, 23 May 2011 - 04:40 PM.


#2 Neils LX

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:08 PM

I own a VY V6 for 3 years and had no problems with it, father in law has a VZ V6 and has had no problems with it.

#3 S pack

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:18 PM

Getting a new daily driver soon looking at vy/vz commodore utes with either the 3.8 ecotec(VY)or 3.6 alloytec(VZ) im leaning towards the ecotec(VY)atm as i know my way round them better then the alloytecs wil be used a daily wont be getting flogged or modified in anyway im over not having luxuries like A/C and a heater and wipers that work :buttrock:

Also auto or manual opninions aswell please

cheers dennis


G/day Dennis

I've got a VZ tonner 3.6 alloytec and my wife has a VS sed 3.8 ecotec both are the TH 700 auto.
Personally I prefer the 3.8 ecotec engine, it feels torquier and more responsive and can easily hold 80 kmh in 4th gear (even with the boot loaded going on holiday) up the Gateway bridge .
The 3.6 alloytec on the other hand feels like a slug on initial take off, sometimes it's like you push the accelerator and the engine management computer has to think about it before the engine responds. The alloytec is supposed to have approx 20% more torque (and more power) than the ecotec but it doesn't feel like it at low revs, maybe the extra torque comes in higher up the rev range. I also find it has trouble holding 4th at 80 kph going up the Gateway bridge.

The shift points for the auto in the VS also feel better than the VZ but they were probably changed to suit the different engine characteristics.
Fuel consumption wise the ecotec shits all over the alloytec, however the VZ 1 Tonner will most likely have a lower diff ratio than the VS sedan, so my comparison is probably not a fair one.

The TH 700 seems to be a reasonable box. I think the choice of manual or auto is more a personal preference thing, but you might find it hard to find a car with a manual box.

Hope this helps
Cheers
Dave.

#4 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:29 PM

Cheers Dave once again you have supplied me with some very useful info cheers mates :buttrock:

The sluggish takeoff in the vz may be due to the cableless throttle setup they run ive driven a couple and i know what you mean about the computer having to think for a second while with the ecotec you have better throttle feel with the cable

cheers dennis

#5 S pack

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:00 PM

Cheers Dave once again you have supplied me with some very useful info cheers mates :buttrock:

The sluggish takeoff in the vz may be due to the cableless throttle setup they run ive driven a couple and i know what you mean about the computer having to think for a second while with the ecotec you have better throttle feel with the cable

cheers dennis


No pobs Dennis

Another thing you might like to know is the thermostat, I've been told, on the alloytec is at the back of the engine not at the front like normal engines.
Apparently about a half days work to rip the intake and fuel rails off the engine just to replace the thermostat and put it back together.
Have been quoted approx $500.00 to have this done. Fk me what a brainless design.

Also I still haven't found the spark plugs yet (not on the exhaust manifold side of the heads), they must be hiding somewhere under the intake plenum or fuel rail. One day I'll buy a workshop manual, LOL.

Cheers
Dave.

#6 _robslxhatch_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:12 PM

DONT touch anything with the 5 spd auto box , they are crapping themselves, and are not strong enough for their application. dont know when they started them as an option (vy-vz may only be 4 spd t700) but in the ve they are bad bad bad

#7 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:25 PM

Yeah lol i know about the alloytec thermostat location someone was on crack when they designed that

cheers for the auto tranny problem heads up i think the auto vys i looked at were 4 speeds

#8 _mello92_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 08:15 PM

Dave, 2 out of 6 spark plugs on your Alloytec are under the intake manifold. Its roughly a 40min job to change the 6 plugs and I recommend that you also change the inlet manifold gasket before refitting the manifold.

Failing radiator caps are another issue with the Alloytecs.

IMO Dennis, the Alloytecs are by far a more refined engine (though still far from perfect) and deliver better fuel economy than the Ecotec. Yes the shitty electronic throttles do take a bit to get used to but its not rocket science.

A mate of mine has a VZ 6sp manual ute that is regularly flogged and the only thing that's let go is the rubber joint at the front of the driveshaft, and the clutch a couple times but it comes back. :)

At the end of the day its your decision but Id go the Alloytec with the 6sp manual if you can find one.

#9 _ChevLX_77_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 08:35 PM


I just recently upgraded to a VZ ute from a VS ute. I must say the VZ wins hands down. Fuel consumption is alot better than the old VS. Power wise i thought that my VZ was a bit sluggier than the VS, untill i towed with it. The old VS really sruggled with the drag car behind it, no dramas with my VZ.

Being a mechanic i know a few of the faults with the VZ. Such as Thermostat location, Timing chain stretching (bad batch of chains which carried into the VE).

The spark plugs go through the rocker covers and requires the plenum to be removed, luckly they only need to be changed every 120 000 clicks.




#10 S pack

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 08:50 PM

Thanks guys for the info on the spark plugs,
I thought they must be somewhere there under the inlet plenum.
As for the fuel consumption, i regularly get an average of 16 litres per 100km, mostly around town mileage. How does that sound???
The wife does more mileage per week (also mostly around town) in her VS than I do in the VZ and she spends less on fuel each week. :dontknow:

Edited by S pack, 23 May 2011 - 08:51 PM.


#11 _ChevLX_77_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:23 PM

i dont really pay attention unless i go on a trip. My old VS didnt have a trip computer either.

I should note that the plenuem only needs to be unbolted and lifted up to get the coil packs off not removed completly

Edited by ChevLX_77, 23 May 2011 - 09:25 PM.


#12 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:27 PM

This is one ive being looking at price may be a little high but might be able to knock it down

http://www.carsales....words=&__N=1216 1247 1252 1282 4294965857 4294964873 410 900 1466&silo=1011&PriceTo=410&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=76&__sid=12F8C94F1B77

#13 S pack

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 11:30 PM

This is one ive being looking at price may be a little high but might be able to knock it down

http://www.carsales....words=&__N=1216 1247 1252 1282 4294965857 4294964873 410 900 1466&silo=1011&PriceTo=410&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=76&__sid=12F8C94F1B77


Nice looking ute, but I agree a bit pricey for 117,000K's.
3yr/175000km warranty, remember your paying extra for this. Exercise caution and make sure you read and understand it before you part with your money.
Maybe get an RACQ inspection & report if you are serious.

My Mum bought a secondhand 2002 Barina with 53,000K's (yeah right) from a well known Dealership on the Northside of Brissy.
The car came with the abovementioned warranty, the dealer made the warranty conditional that only they can service the car. She took the car back to them for the next service, due some months after buying the car and they found over $500.00 worth of repairs needed and not covered by the warranty. Needless to say she told them not to do the work and has not gone back to them since. We had a look at the things they reckon needed fixing/replacing and found the only thing wrong was the drive belt was deteriorating.
This car was touted to be in A1 condition throughout and fully serviced before it was put up for sale.
The rear drum brakes decided to fail (fluid leaking from wheel cylinders) at 76,000K's. When we pulled them apart we found both drums looked like they had done 250,000 K's.
New Drums, shoes and wheel cylinders fixed that problem.

Not intending to paint all car Dealers with the same brush but just be cautious with your hard earned cash.

#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 11:43 PM


This is one ive being looking at price may be a little high but might be able to knock it down

http://www.carsales....words=&__N=1216 1247 1252 1282 4294965857 4294964873 410 900 1466&silo=1011&PriceTo=410&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=76&__sid=12F8C94F1B77


Nice looking ute, but I agree a bit pricey for 117,000K's.
3yr/175000km warranty, remember your paying extra for this. Exercise caution and make sure you read and understand it before you part with your money.
Maybe get an RACQ inspection & report if you are serious.

My Mum bought a secondhand 2002 Barina with 53,000K's (yeah right) from a well known Dealership on the Northside of Brissy.
The car came with the abovementioned warranty, the dealer made the warranty conditional that only they can service the car. She took the car back to them for the next service, due some months after buying the car and they found over $500.00 worth of repairs needed and not covered by the warranty. Needless to say she told them not to do the work and has not gone back to them since. We had a look at the things they reckon needed fixing/replacing and found the only thing wrong was the drive belt was deteriorating.
This car was touted to be in A1 condition throughout and fully serviced before it was put up for sale.
The rear drum brakes decided to fail (fluid leaking from wheel cylinders) at 76,000K's. When we pulled them apart we found both drums looked like they had done 250,000 K's.
New Drums, shoes and wheel cylinders fixed that problem.

Not intending to paint all car Dealers with the same brush but just be cautious with your hard earned cash.


swapping out dashes and failing to notify the new owner is illegal
well over here anyway
winding back the clock has always been gray everywhere
but totally illegal now
we even have to put down the k's on our transfer forms :)

#15 S pack

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 12:21 AM

swapping out dashes and failing to notify the new owner is illegal
well over here anyway
winding back the clock has always been gray everywhere
but totally illegal now
we even have to put down the k's on our transfer forms :)


Apologies for the thread steal.

Fraud here as well for altering speedo readings.

I don't believe the Dealer had anything to do with swapping a speedo or anything like that, but the previous owner????
The log book has a period between two services when the car didn't do much mileage.
Possibly the speedo stopped working and wasn't fixed straight away.

I also believe the rear suspension arms, shocks and brakes are from another car. The suspension bolt heads appear to be spanner marked and the brake line nuts to the wheel cylinders were a bit chewed.
Wouldn't expect a car with only 53,000K's would need any repairs to the rear rear suspension or brakes.

#16 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 12:33 AM


swapping out dashes and failing to notify the new owner is illegal
well over here anyway
winding back the clock has always been gray everywhere
but totally illegal now
we even have to put down the k's on our transfer forms :)


Apologies for the thread steal.

Fraud here as well for altering speedo readings.

I don't believe the Dealer had anything to do with swapping a speedo or anything like that, but the previous owner????
The log book has a period between two services when the car didn't do much mileage.
Possibly the speedo stopped working and wasn't fixed straight away.

I also believe the rear suspension arms, shocks and brakes are from another car. The suspension bolt heads appear to be spanner marked and the brake line nuts to the wheel cylinders were a bit chewed.
Wouldn't expect a car with only 53,000K's would need any repairs to the rear rear suspension or brakes.



if it had been in a crashed/slid into the gutter it may well have needed these
another thing to check on any irs crumple door
these are not cheap and used to add up to $3k odd in bits from a certin wrecker here

#17 S pack

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 12:48 AM

if it had been in a crashed/slid into the gutter it may well have needed these


We thought that, but if it had been in a crash they did a fantastic job fixing it, we can't find any signs of body repairs.
And if it had just been gutter hit damage, how come both sides appear to have been affected.

Anyway it doesn't really matter now if and what happened to it, water under the bridge.
It's only a piece of crap European made Barina.

#18 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 05:10 AM

Im doing full revs checks on all the ones im interested in but as you said read read and read again the small print

cheers peoples

dennis

#19 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 05:13 AM

Mate's VZ had to get the bottom end of his engine rebuilt at 50K! First thing he said was he wanted to buy my VN. (Was his previously)

No other complaints about the alloytec engine apart from the usual commodore problems people come across.

#20 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 11:36 AM


if it had been in a crashed/slid into the gutter it may well have needed these


We thought that, but if it had been in a crash they did a fantastic job fixing it, we can't find any signs of body repairs.
And if it had just been gutter hit damage, how come both sides appear to have been affected.

Anyway it doesn't really matter now if and what happened to it, water under the bridge.
It's only a piece of crap European made Barina.


lol
could have hit the gutter hard enough and bent all the suspension
common proplem with vr/vq on irs crumpledoors
and idiots going sideways
been in pedders once ....getting other shit done for someone and the bloke came out with a 2k quote
to fix his vu ute that had done exacally that

#21 _Woodsy_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 01:21 PM

i was looking at some cars in a car yard when a old ed falcon came in that they sold, the fella who got out of it worked for the car yard and said that the car kept overheating on the new owner, so they just put more chemiweld in it to stop the leak.....

Same car yard that told us we have to buy the car if we wanted to take it for a test drive.

Edited by Woodsy, 24 May 2011 - 01:22 PM.


#22 _ChevLX_77_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 08:09 PM

That ute is a little pricey SLR Goat i paid the same amount for a VZ with 50 000 clicks. In QLD aswell

#23 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 09:26 PM

Have a good look for water damage (computer, carpets, exhaust etc) when buying QLD cars.

#24 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 09:27 PM

Yeah its overpriced looking at vu utes aswell theres a few clean ones on car sales i just need to keep looking and not buy the first one that comes along




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