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Rust prevention from inside doors


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#1 notna

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:05 PM

G'day all....

I have a full set of immaculate doors for my SL/R. They came off a granny-pack low k car and have never been dented, resprayed or rusted.

What, if anything, should be put INSIDE the doors, to prevent rust forming? I once saw someone use cavity wax. That's the kinda thing I am wondering.

Cheers.

#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:21 PM

Cavity wax.

Cheers.

#3 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:24 PM

I blow the door cavities out with compressed air & clean up any dust/dirt etc as best i can & spray cavity wax using either an aerosol can or 600ml tins on a body deadner gun with compressed air. Most new cars are treated as such, especially European cars. Also, most if not all insurance companies pay an allowance for use of cavity wax in smash repairs. Some people use fish oil but working in the auto industry i tend follow trade & manufacturers procedures. JMO

#4 _Quagmire_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:26 PM

ranex or k+h rustbuster
to sort out any problems
and then wax the shit outta them :)
sounds like a nice score
put rags under the drain holes to stop any excess leaking out and avoid getting any on the window regs



#5 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:30 PM

Good point, i generaly apply the wax after the panel has been painted & before i fit the regulator, bailey channels, glass etc. I also apply it in sill panels, the lower tie bar on LH-UCs, windscreen plenum, behind the beaver panel etc, especially if afore mentioned areas have had repairs done.

#6 _Quagmire_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:40 PM

yeah after paint is best
i worked in the rustproofing industry for 12 odd months so it was mostly new cars i done
extrol will remove surface rust and seal as well but it's a right bitch to work with and remove

#7 FastEHHolden

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 05:42 PM

I have just pulled a decent skin off a stuffed frame.....and thats how I see them getting stuffed....scale sits in the gaps and stays wet....I would definately use phosforic acid and then blow them out with compressed air before using body deadner or cavity wax.

#8 71xu1

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 09:14 PM

Don't use phosporic acid that way it will rust your doors out. if you cont believe me get a strip of bare metal and dip in phosphoric acid and leave it sit for a week or two without neutralsing it. It will rust at an accelerated rate. IMO Cavity wax.

#9 notna

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 11:30 PM

Cheers for the feedback. Next question... where to buy from?

#10 _Quagmire_

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 11:41 PM

google wurtz cavity wax
any good paint supplier will stock someting like it

#11 71xu1

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 11:43 PM

Ditto Wurth cavity wax

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#12 notna

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 09:21 AM

Know the brand well... they did a little sponsor thing for the magazine car I was restoring.

Thanks guys! :D

#13 _Quagmire_

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 09:39 AM

Know the brand well... they did a little sponsor thing for the magazine car I was restoring.

Thanks guys! :D

lol
well speak to them nicely and you may get "free" product :P

#14 LHSL

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 12:17 PM

Wurth don't have a distributor in Sydney. PM me if you want a sales guy details. Phillip

#15 _tomo123_

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 01:38 PM

has anyone got any suggestions on some sort of spray gun set up to spray it into hard to access areas such as the dash plenum.

i tired adapting a degreaser gun with a flexible end but didn't hav much success, it tending to more drip out rather then spray



#16 _Quagmire_

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 05:20 PM

wuriths do a adaptor to thier aresol deallies
or 3m do this http://www.sprayguns...roducts_id=5668
you may want to try and up the presure on your "modified" gun,thin the mix or reduce the siz of the noosle :)

#17 71xu1

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 09:12 PM

I will try and take a picture of my rustproofing gun in the next couple of days. Basically a sprayputty gun (pressure feed not suction) with and adapter on the fluid cap to attach a hose of about 2m great for sills and hard to get at places.

Cheers Dave

#18 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 09:16 PM

You can buy cheap body deadner guns that will do the trick.

Cheers.

#19 _tomo123_

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 07:59 AM

wuriths do a adaptor to thier aresol deallies
or 3m do this http://www.sprayguns...roducts_id=5668
you may want to try and up the presure on your "modified" gun,thin the mix or reduce the siz of the noosle :)


that looks just like a body deaner gun with a flexible end. might hav a go at doing that to my deadener gun

#20 Bart

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 10:43 AM

POR15?

#21 Shtstr

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 11:19 AM

i use fish oil with kill rust mixed through it so it sets like paint.

#22 Oversteer

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 11:16 PM

Thread revival...

 

What if the inside of doors has some surface rust ? should that be treated before cavity wax ?

 

Cavity wax still the go ?



#23 LHSL

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Posted 06 March 2016 - 08:33 PM

Haven't read otherwise. I use cavity wax or if I am too lazy to get the compressor set up lanolin spray.
Cheers phillip

#24 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 07:44 PM

Ive just treated the doors on my Daily driver (  1982,TF Gemini) I used a KBS Paint sampler box ,its just like POR15 ,its messy but great stuff!,It has a:  cleaner,Rust Converter ,then Black Polymer Paint that's tough as nails.

 

If you get the paint on you ,nothing known to man will remove it off your skin ,unless you get it off immediately ,so far ive done the two front doors ,a lower quarter panel and around the back window after taking the window out . Its time consuming to do but I reckon its worth it






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