okay i am going to replace banjo with a borg warner diff
my question is which diff do i use
the skyline one is right for width but can i get axels welded and redrilled?? but i believe handbrake setup is straight forward,
the commodore needs to be shortened ? but will leave me with comm pattern (is this same as hq) and how easy will handbrake setup work
what are your thoughts\recomendations please
i have read thru a few threads and its doing my head in as to which way to go
thanks to all who reply
borg warner diff conversion
Started by
_abtorana_
, Jun 03 2011 10:53 AM
12 replies to this topic
#2
View GaragePosted 03 June 2011 - 12:40 PM
Commodore stud pattern is different to HQ.
Its easier and cheaper to use the Skyline diff even with welding and re-drilling the axle flanges, but some people on here have reported problems with diff places being willing to do that, and to weld the top arm mounts to the cast housing (whereas the Commodore one you can move it over a little and get maximum weld on the axle tube).
The Skyline brakes are nice because they have the fins and the park brake built into the caliper, and they fit in the standard position. However very little work is required with Commodore brakes too, so this is not really a factor.
Its easier and cheaper to use the Skyline diff even with welding and re-drilling the axle flanges, but some people on here have reported problems with diff places being willing to do that, and to weld the top arm mounts to the cast housing (whereas the Commodore one you can move it over a little and get maximum weld on the axle tube).
The Skyline brakes are nice because they have the fins and the park brake built into the caliper, and they fit in the standard position. However very little work is required with Commodore brakes too, so this is not really a factor.
#3
_judgelj_
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 01:38 PM
have your read the pinned thread on this conversion, though it does not mention everything.
i thought the axles were a case of re drilling the flange to suit the pattern. only complicated bit is the tailshaft
i thought the axles were a case of re drilling the flange to suit the pattern. only complicated bit is the tailshaft
#4
_robslxhatch_
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 01:43 PM
I went commodore because 1. i wanted commodore stud pattern 2. they are easy to get (i can pick up axles and centres and housings for mine at any wreckers and they cant give em away) 3.the width that i needed to run my 8" wheels. I don't know if it is 'that' much cheaper to use a Skyline diff. there is even a mob in Melbourne that makes handbrake cables to suit lx-commodore conversion for $120 and they bolt straight in. Anyway check this out My diff conversion.
#5
Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:16 PM
The biggest cost is in new shorter axles if you want to do them properly hence the comment about cost
#6
_abtorana_
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:40 PM
Ok thanks for your replies
will check out some prices on new axels
what should i be asking for
e.g holden (hq) pattern 20 something spline to suit borg warner centre and "x" long
want to go HQ because i want these minus the centre and chrome and only available in hq\chev
will check out some prices on new axels
what should i be asking for
e.g holden (hq) pattern 20 something spline to suit borg warner centre and "x" long
want to go HQ because i want these minus the centre and chrome and only available in hq\chev
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#7
Posted 03 June 2011 - 10:15 PM
28 spline standard, length depends on how much you cut out of the diff. If the wheels are one piece and you're dead set on running them then perhaps they will dictate the diff width.e.g holden (hq) pattern 20 something spline to suit borg warner centre and "x" long
want to go HQ because i want these minus the centre and chrome and only available in hq\chev
edit: actually it may not be necessary, perhaps some people take all the length out of one side and use two short axles...?
Edited by 76lxhatch, 03 June 2011 - 10:16 PM.
#8
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 10:56 PM
The biggest cost is in new shorter axles if you want to do them properly hence the comment about cost
Yep that's right custom hq axles for a commodore diff (or Any other) are expensive which is why I used two short length commodore ones.if custom axles are needed anyway it would pay to get the housing and axles shortened to suit the offset of your wheels.... hence purchase the wheels first ,that is if using a commodore housing .Just be careful if using commodore rear brakes as they will hit the shocks if narrowed too much .
Edited by robslxhatch, 03 June 2011 - 10:57 PM.
#9
kudu
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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:24 PM
have your read the pinned thread on this conversion, though it does not mention everything.
i thought the axles were a case of re drilling the flange to suit the pattern. only complicated bit is the tailshaft
What is complicated about that bit? I am also looking at doing this. I have brought a Skyline diff for the transplant. I assumed I just had to weld a skyline uni joint onto my driveshaft?
Also my diff had no brakes but I was told that Nissans are very easy to get parts for and a lot of other nissan calipres and disks will fit. Does that sound right?
#10
Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:46 PM
You can use a driveshaft flange from quite a wide variety of vehicles including Commodore, and because it uses a flange instead of a u-bolted uni the shaft requires shortening so you can pretty well always get away with using the existing one - so yeah, nothing complex there.
Nissans are generally easy to get parts for but I don't know about the R31 diff - its basically only the Aussie assembled ones that use the Borg Warner and they run PBR (I think?) brakes similar to other Aussie cars so not really Nissan gear at all. The Commodore calipers are very similar but not exactly the same with no internal park brake and thicker pads, perhaps a Falcon caliper would work (some of them have internal park brake on larger discs)?
Nissans are generally easy to get parts for but I don't know about the R31 diff - its basically only the Aussie assembled ones that use the Borg Warner and they run PBR (I think?) brakes similar to other Aussie cars so not really Nissan gear at all. The Commodore calipers are very similar but not exactly the same with no internal park brake and thicker pads, perhaps a Falcon caliper would work (some of them have internal park brake on larger discs)?
#11
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:18 PM
If planning to run more than 400hp it would be advisable to use the larger ford pinion flange and uni joints in a custom made or modified ford tailshaft
#12
_judgelj_
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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:25 PM
oh by complicated i meant it wasnt described in the tutorial.
i guess for people who know what they doing its not complicated, but then again, if you knew well enough you wouldnt need a tutorial.
to some of us it is a bit complex.
i guess for people who know what they doing its not complicated, but then again, if you knew well enough you wouldnt need a tutorial.
to some of us it is a bit complex.
#13
Posted 09 June 2011 - 07:12 AM
I don't know if there's another but the Ford one I used looks bigger in all respects (bigger diameter flange) but actually uses the same size uni inside it all, found that out afterwards...If planning to run more than 400hp it would be advisable to use the larger ford pinion flange and uni joints in a custom made or modified ford tailshaft
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