Jump to content


Water Pumps


  • Please log in to reply
66 replies to this topic

#1 _uctorry_

_uctorry_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 10:24 AM

Hi Guys

Just after some feed back on electric water pumps for 308

What ya thoughts are
pros and cons

and what brands are good and bad

Any infor would be great

Cheers

stuart

#2 Lima31

Lima31

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 874 posts
  • Name:Lee
  • Location:Perth WA
  • Joined: 18-April 10

Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:29 PM

I was thinking the same thing.

+ Consistent water flow which avoids the high mechanical losses with surging under varying engine speed e.g. drag racing
+ Runs at the efficiency point of an electric motor, and reduces rotational mass, so perhaps 0-5bhp improvement on a dyno
+ More control for temperature management

- Expensive in comparison to mechanical
- Increased size to accommodate motor
- Mechanical pumps rarely break shafts, they usually wear the impellers out first, so they still keep turning - if an electric pump motor dies, the impeller could slow right down or seize, and temperature will climb very quickly

I read the following thread, then decided it wasn't worth the hassle unless I was chasing ETs

http://www.irday.com...80413/8537.html

#3 Heath

Heath

    I like cars.

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,401 posts
  • Name:Heath
  • Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
  • Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
  • Joined: 07-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:58 PM

Drag racing hides so many ills, so it isn't a very fair representation.

I don't know what kind of electric pumps you're referring. I've seen some cars with a small electric motor mounted to drive the water pump pulley alone and I suppose the concept of that seems okay, but that motor has to have a fair bit of grunt to drive the pump hard enough to make adequate outlet pressure, and I don't know what the controlling mechanism of that motor is, what triggers it etc? It makes sense that you would make some power out of not driving it from your crank, because driving a good impeller on a water pump should be a big job. But your energy to drive the motor still has to come from somewhere, so it can't be free power?

The in-line pumps on the other hand are stupid. The coolant circuit that goes through the radiator is one of two or more that need to flow for a motor to work properly. If you're only relying on the low speed circuit through the radiator then your cooling system is doing essentially nothing when the thermostat is closed and the circulation is only varied by the discharge the thermostat wants to let through at the time. If that's all you've got, you'll make less power than you should be making, won't be able to tune it properly, it will use more oil and the life of the engine will be hugely reduced.

There's more to cooling systems than stopping cars from overheating

#4 Struggler

Struggler

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,426 posts
  • Name:Andrew or AJ
  • Location:Canberra A.C.T.
  • Car:UC Sedan
  • Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:18 PM

Most of the aftermarket units flow water at about the rate of a mechanical pump running at about 1500 RPM. If your only cruising Summernats or drag racing then this may work out for you. If your revving the engine in a burnout comp or similar then it probably won't work out for you.

Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump. This pressure makes for more efficient heat transfer both from the engine to the coolant and from the coolant to the radiator.

JMHO

#5 _stretchlc_

_stretchlc_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:25 PM

Atleast the electric ones wont cavitate when an engines singing hard in a burnout comp, like my old mechanical pump!

#6 Heath

Heath

    I like cars.

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,401 posts
  • Name:Heath
  • Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
  • Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
  • Joined: 07-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:39 PM

^ Is there actually evidence that these electric pumps won't cavitate? There are definitely mechanical water pumps that will cavitate and will not cavitate. If they have a pressed tin impeller they are pretty much guaranteed to cavitate their arse off.

Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.

Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.

Open the floodgates to nucleate boiling.

#7 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:50 PM

Grade four shit that the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point....Cant believe people still ask that haha.

I have yet to see any real evidence that eleccy pumps wont Cavitate?? One would assume the only reason they dont is because they spin so slowly and do so little.

Cheers.

#8 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,739 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 12 June 2011 - 07:51 PM


Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.


Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.


WTF!

The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..
Thermal expansion of the cooling system fluid will take care of the system pressure and the radiator cap will regulate the maximum pressure possible which in turn dictates the boiling point of the cooling system.

The use of anti freeze/ anti boil additives will also affect the boiling point of the cooling system.

#9 _sshatch355_

_sshatch355_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 08:43 PM

got one in mine. you dont use a thermostat with them you use a restrictor plate. mine sits on 180 all day everyday in peak hr traffic or on the freeway. i can turn the engine off and let the pump run with the thermos and in 2 mins the temp is down to 120 if not cooler.

they cost a bit and probably wouldnt use one on a daily but for a weekender why not

mates run them in burnout comps RVK 355/8000rpm without a problem or worry about belts throwing off



Posted Image

Edited by sshatch355, 12 June 2011 - 08:48 PM.


#10 _uctorry_

_uctorry_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:18 PM

No as they say it is just a toy

nice engine bay u have there

what does ur restrictor plate look like any infor would be great


thanks guys for ur infor

#11 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:23 PM




Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.


Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.


WTF!

The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..
Thermal expansion of the cooling system fluid will take care of the system pressure and the radiator cap will regulate the maximum pressure possible which in turn dictates the boiling point of the cooling system.

The use of anti freeze/ anti boil additives will also affect the boiling point of the cooling system.


Sorry mate, but not if the pressure in the system causes a reverse movement of the water over the pump.....

Cheers.

#12 _sshatch355_

_sshatch355_
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:28 PM

restrictor plates are just round flat sheet alloy that sit where the thermostat used to and they have different sized holes to slow down the speed of the water. moroso make a $13 pack of 3 then you just experiment till you get the desired temp

http://moroso.com/ca...p?CatCode=29018

#13 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,739 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:25 AM

Sorry mate, but not if the pressure in the system causes a reverse movement of the water over the pump.....

Cheers.



Sorry DJ you've lost me, please explain!

#14 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:19 AM

Water pump is moving a certain amount of fluid through the engine, water heats up, pressure of water increases....As you said.

Now Einstein states that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, so we could assume that as the pressure increases it not only acts upon the restricter plate that is in place of the thermostat but also the impeller of the water pump.

If the increase in pressure became great enough it could either stall or reverse the movement of the water pump, but would more likely just cavitate the water around the pump instead.

Now you say that the water pump doesnt have to provide any pressure, but i disagree. If the water pump provided no pressure at all, just flow, and the above scenario occurred (which is sure to happen) then would it not cause at least a stall, but more likely a reverse movement of the water across the pump??? At least until the extra pressure is bled backwards into the radiator (free space), thus reducing the cooling efficiency, causing further heating, and repeating the cycle untill something goes pear shaped.

Of course the electric water pumps have enough power to provide some pressure, at a greatly reduced flow, but im hesitant to suggest that its sufficient??

That said a few of the guys who have commented in this thread that are actually using them seem to find them adequate so perhaps im just driveling shit :D

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 13 June 2011 - 01:20 AM.


#15 Heath

Heath

    I like cars.

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,401 posts
  • Name:Heath
  • Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
  • Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
  • Joined: 07-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:25 AM

The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..

The more head the fluid at the outlet of the water pump has, the better you can control the dominant flow passages (including your high speed circuits), and the higher the boiling point in the system.

It is one thing to say "I'm not familiar with that idea, please elaborate so I can tell if you're wrong or right; I haven't thought about it enough" and another thing to say "no, you are incorrect" when it's laws of nature that aren't open to interpretation.

No, a cooling system doesn't NEED to pressurise anything, a cooling system doesn't NEED to stop a car from overheating either. A lot of hotted up street cars have chronic problems with cooling systems and people try to solve them by fitting bigger and bigger radiators and thermo-fans and removing the thermostats and shit. But you mention concepts like pressure of coolant in a motor and they dismiss it, like that Posted Image idiot in my signature who doesn't believe in unsprung mass.

The fact is that rotodynamic pumps do pressurise fluid. You can put a pipe going vertically on the outlet of a water pump and keep on extending that pipe until water doesn't flow out of it, and it will stall. The height at which it won't flow any more is the highest head it will produce, that's physics, and it's relevant.

Edited by Heath, 13 June 2011 - 01:32 AM.


#16 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:30 AM

Or Heaths way of saying it in a less nice tone lol.

Cheers.

#17 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:47 AM

ain't that the idea of a restrictor plate/thermostat?
to create a restriction in the flow and increase pressure?

#18 _sshatch355_

_sshatch355_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:55 AM

the restrictor plate is to slow the coolant down so it gets a chance to cool. without it mine sat on 200 degrees. there is enough pressure when the pump is on with the radiator cap off for it to pump out and mine is the street version not the higher flowing version

#19 _Viper_

_Viper_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:01 AM

Who said the electric pumps don't create any pressure?

I thought there was a Independent controller for the pump which varies flow depending on temperature?

#20 _mumbo_

_mumbo_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:00 AM

Mine stays cool at idle with eather type but at cruising speeds it gets hot with a mechanical pump but it always stays cool at any speed or in any weather with a electric pump. I still use the thermostat in mine I just cut a edge of to let some water flow through

#21 _Viper_

_Viper_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:40 AM

There was a 700hp XY fraud at a little car park show yesterday which is street driven and had a electric waterpump. Altho I didn't ask him if he had any overheating issues... But one would assume it doesnt since he hasn't given it the flick

#22 _torbirdie_

_torbirdie_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:47 AM

Im not going to refute anyone individually here, but here's some points that address some of what has been said.

Perhaps a reference:http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system4.htm.

The impellor causes pressure to increase through the engine block and creates an area of low pressure behind it as the fluid is rapidly displaced forward by the impellor, reasons as to why bottom radiator hoses collapse.
As I understand it , there is no net increase in pressure in the system, just higher pressure ahead of the pump and lower pressure behind it. This can be confirmed as to why the radiator cap on cross flow systems is placed at the "bottom" hose end, unlike vertical radiators where the rad cap is at the higher pressure sided, causing them to sometimes open if water pump speeds become too high.

Many electrical pumps work on the same impellor design, so there will be no difference in high pressure, low pressure sides if the water is being moved at the same speed. Regardless, all pumps simply rely on moving fluid by affecting a pressure difference no matter what they are powered by, its a nonsense to say electrical pumps will not be up to the task if the have sufficient output.

Contrary to popular belief, pressurisation does not enhance heat transfer to an appreciable extent, increases of 2000psi will only aid heat transfer by ~0.1%. Pressurisation is only needed because of the relatively low boiling point of water.

Systems that have been developed with high boiling point fluids work fine without pressurisation.


My personal opinion on electric water pumps, save your money and spend it on mods that will make a difference.
As far as I know its only been embraced by BMW and that system being specifically engineered for a modern engine which wont have the same flow requirements as an older more inefficient(heat producing) motor, do appreciate that manufacturers are chasing every advantage on systems just so the car can pass cold emission tests.

Edited by torbirdie, 13 June 2011 - 10:00 AM.


#23 _torbirdie_

_torbirdie_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 10:06 AM

Just to add to the post ^ re pressurisation. Some restriction to flow is sometimes needed just so that the coolant backsup and actaully makes contact with all the hotspots within the cylinder head, rather than flowing through and missing some spots.

#24 _uctorry_

_uctorry_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:30 PM

Thanks for the infor

I like how u guys go into alot more detail about topics

SS just wondered who u got urs through and the code for it
Didnt no there was two types

Anyone else run an electris pump like SS?

Thanks again

Stuart

#25 _sshatch355_

_sshatch355_
  • Guests

Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:51 PM

mines a CSR-929C BILLET EWP HOLDEN V8 CLEAR

http://www.proracepr....com.au/?p=1143

the good thing about the csr pumps is if the pump dies you can buy replacement pumps a its just a bolt in part to keep the costs down

Edited by sshatch355, 13 June 2011 - 12:55 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users