
Water Pumps
#1
_uctorry_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 10:24 AM
Just after some feed back on electric water pumps for 308
What ya thoughts are
pros and cons
and what brands are good and bad
Any infor would be great
Cheers
stuart
#2
Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:29 PM
+ Consistent water flow which avoids the high mechanical losses with surging under varying engine speed e.g. drag racing
+ Runs at the efficiency point of an electric motor, and reduces rotational mass, so perhaps 0-5bhp improvement on a dyno
+ More control for temperature management
- Expensive in comparison to mechanical
- Increased size to accommodate motor
- Mechanical pumps rarely break shafts, they usually wear the impellers out first, so they still keep turning - if an electric pump motor dies, the impeller could slow right down or seize, and temperature will climb very quickly
I read the following thread, then decided it wasn't worth the hassle unless I was chasing ETs
http://www.irday.com...80413/8537.html
#3
Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:58 PM
I don't know what kind of electric pumps you're referring. I've seen some cars with a small electric motor mounted to drive the water pump pulley alone and I suppose the concept of that seems okay, but that motor has to have a fair bit of grunt to drive the pump hard enough to make adequate outlet pressure, and I don't know what the controlling mechanism of that motor is, what triggers it etc? It makes sense that you would make some power out of not driving it from your crank, because driving a good impeller on a water pump should be a big job. But your energy to drive the motor still has to come from somewhere, so it can't be free power?
The in-line pumps on the other hand are stupid. The coolant circuit that goes through the radiator is one of two or more that need to flow for a motor to work properly. If you're only relying on the low speed circuit through the radiator then your cooling system is doing essentially nothing when the thermostat is closed and the circulation is only varied by the discharge the thermostat wants to let through at the time. If that's all you've got, you'll make less power than you should be making, won't be able to tune it properly, it will use more oil and the life of the engine will be hugely reduced.
There's more to cooling systems than stopping cars from overheating
#4
Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:18 PM
Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump. This pressure makes for more efficient heat transfer both from the engine to the coolant and from the coolant to the radiator.
JMHO
#5
_stretchlc_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:25 PM
#6
Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:39 PM
Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.
Open the floodgates to nucleate boiling.
#7
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:50 PM
I have yet to see any real evidence that eleccy pumps wont Cavitate?? One would assume the only reason they dont is because they spin so slowly and do so little.
Cheers.
#8
Posted 12 June 2011 - 07:51 PM
Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.
Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.
WTF!
The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..
Thermal expansion of the cooling system fluid will take care of the system pressure and the radiator cap will regulate the maximum pressure possible which in turn dictates the boiling point of the cooling system.
The use of anti freeze/ anti boil additives will also affect the boiling point of the cooling system.
#9
_sshatch355_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 08:43 PM
they cost a bit and probably wouldnt use one on a daily but for a weekender why not
mates run them in burnout comps RVK 355/8000rpm without a problem or worry about belts throwing off

Edited by sshatch355, 12 June 2011 - 08:48 PM.
#10
_uctorry_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:18 PM
nice engine bay u have there
what does ur restrictor plate look like any infor would be great
thanks guys for ur infor
#11
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:23 PM
Also the electric unit cannot pressurize the cooling system like a mechanical pump.
Yep and if it doesn't get pressurized the boiling point is lower.
WTF!
The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..
Thermal expansion of the cooling system fluid will take care of the system pressure and the radiator cap will regulate the maximum pressure possible which in turn dictates the boiling point of the cooling system.
The use of anti freeze/ anti boil additives will also affect the boiling point of the cooling system.
Sorry mate, but not if the pressure in the system causes a reverse movement of the water over the pump.....
Cheers.
#12
_sshatch355_
Posted 12 June 2011 - 09:28 PM
http://moroso.com/ca...p?CatCode=29018
#13
Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:25 AM
Sorry mate, but not if the pressure in the system causes a reverse movement of the water over the pump.....
Cheers.
Sorry DJ you've lost me, please explain!
#14
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:19 AM
Now Einstein states that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, so we could assume that as the pressure increases it not only acts upon the restricter plate that is in place of the thermostat but also the impeller of the water pump.
If the increase in pressure became great enough it could either stall or reverse the movement of the water pump, but would more likely just cavitate the water around the pump instead.
Now you say that the water pump doesnt have to provide any pressure, but i disagree. If the water pump provided no pressure at all, just flow, and the above scenario occurred (which is sure to happen) then would it not cause at least a stall, but more likely a reverse movement of the water across the pump??? At least until the extra pressure is bled backwards into the radiator (free space), thus reducing the cooling efficiency, causing further heating, and repeating the cycle untill something goes pear shaped.
Of course the electric water pumps have enough power to provide some pressure, at a greatly reduced flow, but im hesitant to suggest that its sufficient??
That said a few of the guys who have commented in this thread that are actually using them seem to find them adequate so perhaps im just driveling shit

Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 13 June 2011 - 01:20 AM.
#15
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:25 AM
The more head the fluid at the outlet of the water pump has, the better you can control the dominant flow passages (including your high speed circuits), and the higher the boiling point in the system.The water pump doesn't need to pressurize anything, all it needs to do is circulate the water with a sufficient flow rate to suit the particular application..
It is one thing to say "I'm not familiar with that idea, please elaborate so I can tell if you're wrong or right; I haven't thought about it enough" and another thing to say "no, you are incorrect" when it's laws of nature that aren't open to interpretation.
No, a cooling system doesn't NEED to pressurise anything, a cooling system doesn't NEED to stop a car from overheating either. A lot of hotted up street cars have chronic problems with cooling systems and people try to solve them by fitting bigger and bigger radiators and thermo-fans and removing the thermostats and shit. But you mention concepts like pressure of coolant in a motor and they dismiss it, like that

The fact is that rotodynamic pumps do pressurise fluid. You can put a pipe going vertically on the outlet of a water pump and keep on extending that pipe until water doesn't flow out of it, and it will stall. The height at which it won't flow any more is the highest head it will produce, that's physics, and it's relevant.
Edited by Heath, 13 June 2011 - 01:32 AM.
#16
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:30 AM
Cheers.
#17
_Quagmire_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:47 AM
to create a restriction in the flow and increase pressure?
#18
_sshatch355_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:55 AM
#19
_Viper_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:01 AM
I thought there was a Independent controller for the pump which varies flow depending on temperature?
#20
_mumbo_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:00 AM
#21
_Viper_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:40 AM
#22
_torbirdie_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:47 AM
Perhaps a reference:http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system4.htm.
The impellor causes pressure to increase through the engine block and creates an area of low pressure behind it as the fluid is rapidly displaced forward by the impellor, reasons as to why bottom radiator hoses collapse.
As I understand it , there is no net increase in pressure in the system, just higher pressure ahead of the pump and lower pressure behind it. This can be confirmed as to why the radiator cap on cross flow systems is placed at the "bottom" hose end, unlike vertical radiators where the rad cap is at the higher pressure sided, causing them to sometimes open if water pump speeds become too high.
Many electrical pumps work on the same impellor design, so there will be no difference in high pressure, low pressure sides if the water is being moved at the same speed. Regardless, all pumps simply rely on moving fluid by affecting a pressure difference no matter what they are powered by, its a nonsense to say electrical pumps will not be up to the task if the have sufficient output.
Contrary to popular belief, pressurisation does not enhance heat transfer to an appreciable extent, increases of 2000psi will only aid heat transfer by ~0.1%. Pressurisation is only needed because of the relatively low boiling point of water.
Systems that have been developed with high boiling point fluids work fine without pressurisation.
My personal opinion on electric water pumps, save your money and spend it on mods that will make a difference.
As far as I know its only been embraced by BMW and that system being specifically engineered for a modern engine which wont have the same flow requirements as an older more inefficient(heat producing) motor, do appreciate that manufacturers are chasing every advantage on systems just so the car can pass cold emission tests.
Edited by torbirdie, 13 June 2011 - 10:00 AM.
#23
_torbirdie_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 10:06 AM
#24
_uctorry_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:30 PM
I like how u guys go into alot more detail about topics
SS just wondered who u got urs through and the code for it
Didnt no there was two types
Anyone else run an electris pump like SS?
Thanks again
Stuart
#25
_sshatch355_
Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:51 PM
http://www.proracepr....com.au/?p=1143
the good thing about the csr pumps is if the pump dies you can buy replacement pumps a its just a bolt in part to keep the costs down
Edited by sshatch355, 13 June 2011 - 12:55 PM.
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