Hey guys... I recently painted my Rodeo that has been sitting for like 2.5years... Was running when it was parked up.
Decided to do a service on it before I tried to fire it up, so changed oil, filter, plugs, dizzy cap
Drained the tank of the old fuel and put 20L in, fresh battery and cranked her over.... Cranks fine but doesn't even try to fire...
Pulled one of the leads and it has spark.... Double checked the firing order.... Tried switching it up anyway just in case
Pulled the outlet hose off the fuel rail and its flowing fuel.... squirted abit out incase the fuel in the rail was stale
Its a stock 4ZE1 2.6L Petrol btw.
Battery went flattish so was as far as I got today... I forgot to get a rotor button so ill get a new one tomorrow (altho I was getting spark so dont think its that)
Can/Do injectors gum/block up if they have been sitting for awhile? Im thinking maybe there blocked... or maybe the ecu isnt pulsing them? Can I check that with a multimeter? Can I soak the injectors in anything to clean them? If It is a fuel problem would it be a good idea to squirt abit of fuel into the throttle body while cranking and seeing if it fires (would confirm its a fuel issue)
Yea just lookin for stuff to try tomorrow.
Rodeo Wont Start?
Started by
_Viper_
, Jun 23 2011 10:54 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
Stinga
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 11:02 PM
its probably living in fear that your going to rape it for your gemini.
you could spray aerostart/ fuel in the throttle body to see if it fires as part of your troubleshooting.
maybe pull all the electrical plugs off one by one and plug them back in. its been sitting a long time and might have moisture in there, and check the pin condition while they are apart.
did you pull a plug out after cranking to see if it was wet at all?
im just throwing out random rum fueled ideas
good luck
you could spray aerostart/ fuel in the throttle body to see if it fires as part of your troubleshooting.
maybe pull all the electrical plugs off one by one and plug them back in. its been sitting a long time and might have moisture in there, and check the pin condition while they are apart.
did you pull a plug out after cranking to see if it was wet at all?
im just throwing out random rum fueled ideas
good luck
#3
rodomo
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 11:27 PM
Thes are good for checking injector pulse:
http://www.ebay.com....=item2564f99a9a
You might be able to feel the injector cycling whilst cranking too. I can on most cars but I have a gentle touch.
http://www.ebay.com....=item2564f99a9a
You might be able to feel the injector cycling whilst cranking too. I can on most cars but I have a gentle touch.
#4
FastEHHolden
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 12:21 PM
I'll bet you got the order right....but did you put the leads back on the cap in the right position?
#5
_Viper_
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 01:03 PM
Well the order isnt right if the leads are not on the cap in the right position?
I grabbed a new rotor button just incase but was the same... Got some "start ya bastard" and sprayed into a vac port and vroom fired straight up.
There Is fuel getting to the rail and is under pressure so its either ECU/wiring issue not pulsing the injectors or injectors are blocked.... Just waiting for GF to get off the phone so she can crank it while I feel the injectors to see If I can feel it alah Rodomo soft touch style
Can I soak the injectors in anything to clear them? Thinners? metho?
I grabbed a new rotor button just incase but was the same... Got some "start ya bastard" and sprayed into a vac port and vroom fired straight up.
There Is fuel getting to the rail and is under pressure so its either ECU/wiring issue not pulsing the injectors or injectors are blocked.... Just waiting for GF to get off the phone so she can crank it while I feel the injectors to see If I can feel it alah Rodomo soft touch style
Can I soak the injectors in anything to clear them? Thinners? metho?
Edited by Viper, 24 June 2011 - 01:07 PM.
#6
_Viper_
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 01:50 PM
She runs... I had sprayed start ya barstard down it a couple of times then pulled a injector plug off to check it was pulsing... (it was) and while I was cranking to check the pulse with the plug off it sounded like it wanted to fire up... So put the plug back on and cranked abit more and vroom... so im guessing maybe was just stale fuel in the rail/lines and it just needed to be cycled abit with some fresh fuel??
Running fine above 1200rpm but is idling a little rough, will grab a bottle of injector cleaner and once windscreen is refitted go blow the cobwebs out.
Thx
Running fine above 1200rpm but is idling a little rough, will grab a bottle of injector cleaner and once windscreen is refitted go blow the cobwebs out.
Thx
#7
Stinga
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 02:48 PM
pffft windscreen?? just wear sunnies!
#8
rodomo
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 05:19 PM
More detail please. Did you use a test light?I pulled a injector plug off to check it was pulsing... (it was)
#9
_Quagmire_
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 06:51 PM
She runs... I had sprayed start ya barstard down it a couple of times then pulled a injector plug off to check it was pulsing... (it was) and while I was cranking to check the pulse with the plug off it sounded like it wanted to fire up... So put the plug back on and cranked abit more and vroom... so im guessing maybe was just stale fuel in the rail/lines and it just needed to be cycled abit with some fresh fuel??
Running fine above 1200rpm but is idling a little rough, will grab a bottle of injector cleaner and once windscreen is refitted go blow the cobwebs out.
Thx
save yourself 10 bucks
and just throw some wortex/ultimate in and take it for a wrap round the block
those willy wanker bottles are really a waste of time imo
#10
dattoman
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 10:04 PM
The F10 is OK to be honest
#12
rodomo
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 11:57 PM
I dont know how many cars I have serviced that will crank but not fire.
Then, while checking spark (screw driver in plug lead with 10mm+ gap to earth), the damn thing immediately runs, often shooting 20,000V into my pacemaker.
A classic example is to loosen the 2 screws on the dissy module of a Holden 6 dissy and then retighten them and the damn thing will go.
There is a reason for using noid testers for checking injector pulse..........................but I forget the reason?
By using a test light, I'm guessing that you've triggered something back into life, like ignition mentioned above.
Puts more load on the circuit to re-establish an earth?
Then, while checking spark (screw driver in plug lead with 10mm+ gap to earth), the damn thing immediately runs, often shooting 20,000V into my pacemaker.
A classic example is to loosen the 2 screws on the dissy module of a Holden 6 dissy and then retighten them and the damn thing will go.
There is a reason for using noid testers for checking injector pulse..........................but I forget the reason?
By using a test light, I'm guessing that you've triggered something back into life, like ignition mentioned above.
Puts more load on the circuit to re-establish an earth?
#13
_Viper_
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Posted 25 June 2011 - 03:42 PM
Hehe maybe, I might get some of those Noid testers as well tho. But shes running now and thats the main thing
#14
FastEHHolden
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Posted 25 June 2011 - 04:38 PM
The reason is you can draw too much current and spike the ECU...you can back probe the plugs while they are hooked to the injector and test for voltage
Edited by FastEHHolden, 25 June 2011 - 04:39 PM.
#15
_Viper_
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Posted 25 June 2011 - 05:06 PM
Yea my Multimeter has seemed to go walkabout so I deferred to the test light... Will keep that in mind for next time.
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