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Chev to Torana LX engine mount brackets

Started by _Herne_ , Jun 25 2011 08:08 PM

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16 replies to this topic

#1 _Herne_

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 08:08 PM

Hi Guys, thinking of doing Chev 350 engine in my '77 LX Torana.
I need to know what brackets to buy and where to get them.

Photos (clear ones) posted of what I need to look for would be great.

I was told the Holden Torana rubbers may fit on the Chev 350 brackets?

Also I have a TH350 but with 355:1 diff gearing I am wondering if a 700 would not be a better match for street work? Comments please.

Cheers
Herne

Edited by Herne, 25 June 2011 - 08:09 PM.

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#2 dattoman

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 08:29 PM

I spotted a few sets of brackets on ebay today while surfing
These seemed the cheapest
http://www.ebay.com....=item43a7ff87b9

All seem to say HQ- etc inc Torana... and as we know they are slightly different.... but.... probably close enough
Or you could search for the "Tuffmounts" that alot of people are now using... nice and rigid... may cause some vibration though

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#3 _UCV80_

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 08:50 PM

I use v8 torana rubber mounts, just need the custom brackets. I noticed CRS prices have shot up a heap. but as above they can be had for far cheaper.

I have a TH350 and 3.55 diff and 14" wheels. From memory just a tiny bit over 3,000rpm at 100k/hr. An overdrive would be really nice. But its alright, 3k suits my engine and converter.

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#4 Litre8

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 09:28 PM

I use these.. Mounts

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#5 _Herne_

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 10:52 PM

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, the ones Datto found on the net are affordable and i have dealt with Chris Mills before and never had a problem.

UCV80, I agree, I am thinking an overdrive gear would be good, need to think on that and explore the costs involved, currently I am running a very nice Trimatic thats holding up extremely well but it has been tinkered with some and of course it wont fit a Chev. The TH350 is spare and paid for under my mates house, been there for a couple of years now, I really need to get it collected lol

Howard, I just love the look of your engine mounts, they are all class judging by the look and finish. Cost wise you frightened the hell out of me lol If I had the dollars spare those would be the ones

As it stands with my shoulder I am still only good for very short drives :(

Cheers
Herne

Edited by Herne, 25 June 2011 - 10:53 PM.

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#6 _rob350hatch_

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Posted 25 June 2011 - 11:34 PM

just beware and im not trying to be a killjoy.as you know i have a 350 in my hatch.after many combinations of engine mounts we finally got it near right.you will get all sorts and they all allow something to foul something .good luck.i wish i could remember the combo to make your life easy.

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#7 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 26 June 2011 - 01:33 AM

The HQ style adaptor plates are not symmetrical. The drivers side of the motor sits higher to clear the steering gear in the HQ. You can buy the HQ style from Rare Spares.

I think the CRS alloy adaptor plates may be symmetrical although the left and right do appear to be different so maybe they are the same as the HQ style.
Posted Image

The choice will probably come down to which headers you plan to run and the engine mounts they are designed for. It is best to treat the sump, starter, headers and engine mounts as a set.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 June 2011 - 01:40 AM.

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#8 Struggler

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Posted 26 June 2011 - 09:14 AM

I got some cheap eBay ones a while ago and they sat the engine too low on the pass. side. I had to make up a 6mm shim to correct it. Just something to be aware of.

The drivers side is not larger to sit the engine higher, its to move the engine over to the Aust. pass. side. The engine should sit level in the bay.

I have also made my own in the past just to sit the engine a bit further back in an HQ. Fairly simple but obviously you need a welder.

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#9 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 26 June 2011 - 12:56 PM

This is a picture I took of the HQ-WB Chev mounts on my Torana k-frame. The mounts in the photo have symmetrical Chev to LS1 adaptor plates fitted. The mounts are on the wrong sides in this photo.

The odd thing is that the thicker 40 mm adaptor is 10 mm lower than the 30 mm adaptor. The adaptor plates are not stamped left and right so I expect alot of people get them the wrong way round.

In my opinion it makes more sense to rotate the engine on the centreline. If the engine is moved sideways then the rest of the drivetrain is put out of alignment.

Posted Image

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#10 Struggler

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:20 AM

Interesting. I just measured up mine and they are 30mm and 43mm. I added the 6mm to make it 36/43. I then looked at the block and the mounting pads are different heights from the pan rail. There you go ! I've learnt something today !

As an aside, I would prefer the engine sat level and offset slightly, most V8's are like this from the factory.

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#11 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 11:00 AM

I then looked at the block and the mounting pads are different heights from the pan rail.

Are you saying that the mounting pads on the chev engine block are not symetrical? ( I don't have an engine block to check myself. )

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#12 myss427

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 11:44 AM

Funny you should mention that Andrew, I had the same problem with a lopsidded engine using the chev holden mounts. Also had to shim up to get level. Bought the tuff mounts and cured the problem, so maybe the chev holden mounts are wrong?

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#13 Struggler

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:19 PM

I then looked at the block and the mounting pads are different heights from the pan rail.

Are you saying that the mounting pads on the chev engine block are not symetrical? ( I don't have an engine block to check myself. )

Yes.

Also measured the engine offset, its exactly 15mm more to the Australian pass. side than the drivers, as is the trans crossmember and the pinion.

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#14 _Herne_

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 09:34 AM

Funny you should mention that Andrew, I had the same problem with a lopsidded engine using the chev holden mounts. Also had to shim up to get level. Bought the tuff mounts and cured the problem, so maybe the chev holden mounts are wrong?

Hi mate, so would you say its really worth paying the extra and going for the Tuff Mounts?
I have to admit they do look the part, very professional in their presentation.

Cheers
Herne

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#15 dattoman

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 09:38 AM

To date I know Howard , A9X and ozyozyozy are using them
All 3 cars get treated harshly when driven
They aren't exactly street driven though so maybe you need opinions from the street driven crowd on their comfort level

I'll snap and measure my Chev mounts soon too... as mine are old and possibly factory ones

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#16 _Matty_torana1978_

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Posted 04 August 2011 - 01:03 PM

There's a few types out there, I do know that the alloy ones have the motor sitting slightly to the passenger side. Some extractors require those mounts because if the engine sits exactly in the middle there is not enough clearance on the steering side and the upper control arm bolts to fit aftermarket extractors.I use the crs alloy type which gives me extra steering and upper control arm bolt clearance. The engine sits perfectly lvl but is a few mm to the passenger side. Not even noticable.

Edited by Matty_torana1978, 04 August 2011 - 01:06 PM.

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#17 myss427

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Posted 04 August 2011 - 03:30 PM

Ok been a little while since I have had the mounts in and been driving it. First time I took her out with the new engine I experienced a huge driveline vibration when I reved it. Driving around you did not notice any difference, but put the foot down and it was terrible. Took out the gearbox crossmember Tuff mount and replaced it with the original rubber one and the vibration almost completely dissapeared. I measured th mount against the original and it was over 10mm higher, so either it was changing the geometry or the box was touching when lifted higher.

Still have the engine mounts in, the vibration is acceptable. It is only noticeable when you are on the lowd peddle! So I probably will leave them in. One thing though if you are building extractors to fit the chev, you have heaps more room around the engine mounts than standard!