G'day, I was just attempting to remove a buggered harmonic balancer on my 202 this afternoon. after struggling for half an hour or so trying to wind it off with a harmonic balancer remover like whats found at most spare parts stores the main pulling bolt in the middle seemed to jam in the crank, resulting in it twisting and bending, and the balancer hasnt budged yet.
got any ieas of a better way to get it off?? personally if I had the gear I would like to heat it up with an oxy to get it to expand a little, and using a good quality puller should pop it off, or maybe a rattle gun because that would jolt it to 'crack' it off. but unfortunalty I dont have those things to give it a go. Im hoping someone has a trick that I havent thought of yet that can be achieved with typical home garage tools
got any tips for removing stubborn harmonic balancer?
Started by
_evil UC hatch_
, Jul 08 2011 05:04 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
rodomo
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:11 PM
If you aren't re-using it?
The drilling holes method will help relieve it's grip.
The drilling holes method will help relieve it's grip.
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#3
Steve TPF
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:12 PM
Are you using a "claw type" puller, or one that bolts to the three holes in the balancer?
#4
_evil UC hatch_
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:42 PM
Im using the one with the 3 bolts, I also have a claw type on but it cat grip it at all. thanks for the ideas Rodomo, I'll give them a go once I get my hands on another puller. definatly not wanting to reuse it, it had slipped
#5
_uncleian_
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:45 PM
If you aren't re-using it?
The drilling holes method will help relieve it's grip.
how come he gets his pics in colour and i didn't huh......bloody favourites
#6
rodomo
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 07:19 PM
Sorry mate...............I thought you were colour blind?how come he gets his pics in colour and i didn't huh......bloody favourites
#7
_Mint_
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 07:24 PM
you could try using a thick gauge washer or two thinner ones in the centre where the pulley bolt goes..so that would centre the pulley bolt and stop it from going on an angle
the washer should be smaller enough od to fit against the crank snout
cant remember..do holden sixes have an indent in the end of the crank?...i know they dont have a bolt unlike the v8
the washer should be smaller enough od to fit against the crank snout
cant remember..do holden sixes have an indent in the end of the crank?...i know they dont have a bolt unlike the v8
#8
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 07:58 PM
yeah it has an indentation in the center of the crank, made it easy to locate the main bolt but the thread on it went all the way to the tip, looks like it just jambed in there and being a weak crap tool it twisted it
#9
_bathurst-racer_
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 08:13 PM
I had this exact same issue while doing a rebuild for my Torana earlier this year. I finally got the balancer off in literally 15 secs with a good quality puller. This was after a week of squirting it with CRC 556, tapping and then twisting my original cheapie puller to look like yours. The one I borrowed in the end was said to be the genuine Holden tool.
#10
S pack
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 10:52 PM
yeah it has an indentation in the center of the crank, made it easy to locate the main bolt but the thread on it went all the way to the tip, looks like it just jambed in there and being a weak crap tool it twisted it
Your biggest problem with that puller is the bolts are way too long and the centre bolt needs to be a bigger diameter.
My home made balancer puller is made from 3/8" steel plate with a 3/4" BSP nut welded in the centre. The plate bolts hard up against the balancer so the centre bolt can apply maximum force to the snout of the crank without flexing. Has never failed to remove a balancer and it was cheap to make.
#11
rodomo
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Posted 08 July 2011 - 10:57 PM
Your biggest problem with that puller is the bolts are way too long and the centre bolt needs to be a bigger diameter.
And the thread is way too coarse, 1mm+ per turn?
When looking for a cheap puller, pick the one with the finest thread for the greatest mechanical advantage.
#12
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 09 July 2011 - 02:27 PM
having one that can bolt hard against the ballancer would be ideal, with a shorter, but thicker center bolt as suggested above. I was thinking this last night. the one I was using seemed to twist too easily for something of that thickness too, at a guess I think its arround 5/8, I have been able to hang off mild steel 1/2 inch botls without breaking them in the past. If I cant find a quality one with the desired features mentioned I guess I will have to make one myself. but for now the engine can just sit in the corner, Im flat broke 
#13
FastEHHolden
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Posted 09 July 2011 - 03:44 PM
that centre section will be fine if you can tap it for a large fine threaded bol into it or heat that top section and straighten it....then chop it in half.....also turn it around so the lump around the central thread points out...yeah and use short bolts
#14
_cruiza_
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Posted 09 July 2011 - 07:46 PM
the answer is your mind grasshopper think not of removing the balancer but of removing the crank
#15
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 09 July 2011 - 08:08 PM
LOL Cruiza, I had actually thought of that, and I know where there is another bottom end I could get for nothing, although it has had no manifold on it for a while and the ports in the head look rather rusty, I assume the bores in some of the cylinders would be the same. the crank should still be ok though. but thats waaaay too much effort for an engine thats got to last maybe 12 months, for when the 304 goes in
the bolt in my tool is very out of shape, it has a few different bends in a few different directions, you cant really see it in the photo, but its almost got a corkscrew shape going though most of the length. before purchasing anything I might use Rodomo's drilling idea, and find some short bolts to bolt up that puller hard against the ballancer, I have a 5/8 unc tap at work, if its big enough to run through and cut a good thread I will do that, and run a High tensile bolt through the middle. if I cant tap a good thread I will just use a 10mm plate offcut from work instead
the bolt in my tool is very out of shape, it has a few different bends in a few different directions, you cant really see it in the photo, but its almost got a corkscrew shape going though most of the length. before purchasing anything I might use Rodomo's drilling idea, and find some short bolts to bolt up that puller hard against the ballancer, I have a 5/8 unc tap at work, if its big enough to run through and cut a good thread I will do that, and run a High tensile bolt through the middle. if I cant tap a good thread I will just use a 10mm plate offcut from work instead
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