G'day,
I'm getting close to spraying the top coats on my LH and I had fully intended on spraying it solid 'Chrome Yellow' as opposed to base coat followed by clear. (As the clear always seems to peel somewhere...) However, the Paint shop I use (Who I always find extremely helpful) recommends the opposite. The reason being that the manufacturers took all the lead out of 2pack recently leaving it prone to fading, especially colours like yellow, red, etc. In fact, they said the paint manufacturers will not warrant solid colours without a clear coat for fading any more.
I'd really like to hear peoples points of view on both paint systems..
Cheers
Solid colour V's Base coat with Clear
Started by
_napes_au_
, Jul 25 2011 05:10 PM
11 replies to this topic
#2
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 25 July 2011 - 06:11 PM
Yep no lead in paint anymore.
Have no idea how that would affect the holdout of the color, thats what the UV stuff is for.
Spraying solid yellow 2k basically every day of my life i havnt had any adverse affects as far as hold out goes since they took the lead out nearly two years ago. And this is equiptment that sits in the sun all the time.
That said i spray Protec which has a lot better UV stability than most of the other brands.
BUT it definitely doesnt cover as well. I've had to switch to a white primer for my Yellows. Covers nicely now.
The reason clearcoat peels off on COB systems is because there is not enough UV stability type stuff in the clear. A lot of the american brands are notorious for this when subjected to our climate...
Hope this helps a little, feel free to ask any more questions.
Cheers.
Have no idea how that would affect the holdout of the color, thats what the UV stuff is for.
Spraying solid yellow 2k basically every day of my life i havnt had any adverse affects as far as hold out goes since they took the lead out nearly two years ago. And this is equiptment that sits in the sun all the time.
That said i spray Protec which has a lot better UV stability than most of the other brands.
BUT it definitely doesnt cover as well. I've had to switch to a white primer for my Yellows. Covers nicely now.
The reason clearcoat peels off on COB systems is because there is not enough UV stability type stuff in the clear. A lot of the american brands are notorious for this when subjected to our climate...
Hope this helps a little, feel free to ask any more questions.
Cheers.
#3
_76lx_
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Posted 25 July 2011 - 06:30 PM
yellow actually is the colour that fades the most and protec colours never cover well particually blacks and reds it all depends on what your going to do with the car if its an everyday driver than definately go with a 2k cob if its getting shedded alot id go with a solid but in saying that theres nothing wrong with a solid colour if you look after it properly lots of polish
#4
_napes_au_
_napes_au_
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Posted 25 July 2011 - 06:39 PM
yellow actually is the colour that fades the most and protec colours never cover well particually blacks and reds it all depends on what your going to do with the car if its an everyday driver than definately go with a 2k cob if its getting shedded alot id go with a solid but in saying that theres nothing wrong with a solid colour if you look after it properly lots of polish
It's only going to have club rego, so definitely not a daily.... So if I polish it with a good quality product such as McGuire's it will help with UV related deterioration????
#5
brocks72xu1
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Posted 25 July 2011 - 06:56 PM
i prefer to paint yellows,reds,puple's etc in cob better gloss level against solid (direct gloss colours )they seem to drop there arse as you have apply to many coats for coverage in 2k(direct gloss),and it does'nt matter how much you buff it will have dull shit look to it,i strongly suggest using a white base so that your yellow will cover easier,using the cob system you get a gloss level (btter than direct gloss colours )and if done right you alot more depth than solid 2k,as for the egdes peeling you might have to have alook at your preperation as it's the key to a good finish,also a good clear is key aswell (dont use cheap shit)
#7
_76lx_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 07:00 AM
mate i cant see there being a problem cars ive painted with solid colours havnt had that problem cost puts alot of poeple off a cob system there are cheaper products out there but remember you get what you pay for and there are many reasons why clear peels most of wich are the painters fault or age if the job is done properly you shoudnt have a problem with that and as recomemded above use a lighter base to help with coverage good luck
#8
_napes_au_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 07:32 AM
Thus far, stripped to bare metal, primed with 2k epoxy primer. Next, I've got a light yellow 2k high build primer (approximately one shade lighter than Chrome Yellow) that I'd planned to spray before the top coats to aid with coverage. The reason I went to the hassle of putting an epoxy primer down first was it's rust resistant properties...
#9
_napes_au_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 07:42 AM
i prefer to paint yellows,reds,puple's etc in cob better gloss level against solid (direct gloss colours )they seem to drop there arse as you have apply to many coats for coverage in 2k(direct gloss),and it does'nt matter how much you buff it will have dull shit look to it,i strongly suggest using a white base so that your yellow will cover easier,using the cob system you get a gloss level (btter than direct gloss colours )and if done right you alot more depth than solid 2k,as for the egdes peeling you might have to have alook at your preperation as it's the key to a good finish,also a good clear is key aswell (dont use cheap shit)
The guys down the Trade centre told me for maximum adhesion, the clear coat has to be down within 5 hours of the base coat, is this right??
If it is, that's a very short time to spray the yellow, then tape up the black, spray the black, then remove the tape etc, and the finally get a clear over it???
#10
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 06:03 PM
This is correct. Its easily doable. LJ took me six hours from when it rolled into the booth to when i walked out. Includes pre masking before the main color. Time between last coat of blue and first coat of clear after masking and spraying the blackouts was about 2 hours.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 26 July 2011 - 06:03 PM.
#11
grumpy xu1
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Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:16 PM
G'day,
I'm getting close to spraying the top coats on my LH and I had fully intended on spraying it solid 'Chrome Yellow' as opposed to base coat followed by clear. (As the clear always seems to peel somewhere...) However, the Paint shop I use (Who I always find extremely helpful) recommends the opposite. The reason being that the manufacturers took all the lead out of 2pack recently leaving it prone to fading, especially colours like yellow, red, etc. In fact, they said the paint manufacturers will not warrant solid colours without a clear coat for fading any more.
I'd really like to hear peoples points of view on both paint systems..
Cheers
Hi John, mate if you are trying to restore or mock up a slr or l34 or whatever it is then i personally wouldn't clear over the black because originally they all had a big paint edge as you might have felt before ! i my opinion they are best painted back like that. The reason also your paintshop would have said about this working time is some paint's will fry each other if not done in time ( you have done the right thing putting a 2 pack epoxy primer on the body 1st & when you,ve used tinted high build you should,nt have a problem with coverage. stick to the solids in a quality paint mate, sikkens is my preference & ive used a lot but your choice. leave the clears for only metalics just to make it easier for you. P.S. those of you getting a dull finish check your thinner levels & mix to instructions, probably your cause more thinners less gloss !! 3 good wet coats of yellow will cover it mate leave it half a week three good wet coats of black unmask & polish in 2 weeks with meguires wet look then every 6 months will be great for years. As for lead in paint it's been iso sioates for about 20 yrs that ive been professionally working with them there epoxy's were called " cromate free " about 10 years ago. Wear a mask cause as you read it's hardener is sinide like they killed people with, Grumpy xu1.
#12
brocks72xu1
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Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:20 AM
i prefer to paint yellows,reds,puple's etc in cob better gloss level against solid (direct gloss colours )they seem to drop there arse as you have apply to many coats for coverage in 2k(direct gloss),and it does'nt matter how much you buff it will have dull shit look to it,i strongly suggest using a white base so that your yellow will cover easier,using the cob system you get a gloss level (btter than direct gloss colours )and if done right you alot more depth than solid 2k,as for the egdes peeling you might have to have alook at your preperation as it's the key to a good finish,also a good clear is key aswell (dont use cheap shit)
The guys down the Trade centre told me for maximum adhesion, the clear coat has to be down within 5 hours of the base coat, is this right??
If it is, that's a very short time to spray the yellow, then tape up the black, spray the black, then remove the tape etc, and the finally get a clear over it???
depends on the paint your supplier has given you,most company's will safely allow 12 to 24 hrs
if your worried about the time frame spray the whole car yellow first including the clear and then apply the black,after yellow top coat has dried completely
Edited by brocks72xu1, 03 October 2011 - 08:28 AM.
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