Well, now i have the welder, and a mate with skills who's willing to teach me and go halfs in materials were going to build a tandem car trailer one suitable for any car up to landcruiser 4x4 size as he wants to use it for his hilux buggy which is in my ute thread.
its going be made out of square tube with mesh flooring.
the plan is to make a tandem hydraulic braked car trailer, the budget is around 4g
the plan is to have ramps tucked up in the back part so they can just slide out and lock in place. and have a scissor jack in the front to lift the trailer so the most lowest cars can go on the trailer, electronic winch and a few other hidden surprises
will update more when we get more of a blueprint drawn up.
any ideas or plans from previous builds will be great.
the car trailer
Started by
_gen3torrie_
, Jul 25 2011 11:30 PM
27 replies to this topic
#2
Litre8
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Thrillseeker
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:11 AM
The mesh floor is a good idea, you really want to keep it as light as possible without sacrificing strength or durability.
#3
enderwigginau
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 12:32 PM
Make sure any holes you make for running tie-downs are nice and smooth on the entry and exist so the straps don't strip/cut.
Grant..
Grant..
#4
blown308
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 01:43 PM
here is the one we are making.. so far frame cost $750.00, full disc brake setup and tandem axels $800.00..
I could give you the details, but since you didnt buy a welder from me that wont happen.....
I could give you the details, but since you didnt buy a welder from me that wont happen.....
#5
_Liam_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 01:53 PM
Save some cost and just use a mechanical hand winch. More then sufficient. I think you would get away with 75 x 25 or 50 x 2 (3 if you really want) sections.
Just something to keep in mind, 4K would buy a pretty damn near perfect trailer. There is no reason why you couldn't build it for 2K.
Good luck mate.
Just something to keep in mind, 4K would buy a pretty damn near perfect trailer. There is no reason why you couldn't build it for 2K.
Good luck mate.
#6
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 06:26 PM
thanks for the info guys,
come on blown308, thats not nice, i was going to buy one from you, but the postage was going to be a pain...
come on blown308, thats not nice, i was going to buy one from you, but the postage was going to be a pain...
#7
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 06:31 PM
thanks for the info guys,
come on blown308, thats not nice, i was going to buy one from you, but the postage was going to be a pain...
that and this one is here, so i got someone to blame if it breaks.
#8
Litre8
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:28 PM
One thing I had done when my tandem trailer was built many years ago was to have rear part of trailer angle down to make it easier to get the car on and off.
#9
_Liam_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:35 PM
Howard, I think that's what his scissor jack at the front is mean to tilt the tray and reduce the angle where the ramp meets the trailer... I think that was his plan, but Howard's way would be much cheaper and easier.
#10
Litre8
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:58 PM
Yes, I don't need to jack the front of the trailer at all (mind you I long ranps too).
The pic doesn't really show the drop depth very well, its about 15cm I think.
The pic doesn't really show the drop depth very well, its about 15cm I think.
#11
_Liam_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 09:11 PM
Also josh, I think just standard electric brakes would be alot cheaper and fine on a car trailer.
#12
_Liam_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 09:14 PM
Yes, I don't need to jack the front of the trailer at all (mind you I long ranps too).
The pic doesn't really show the drop depth very well, its about 15cm I think.
Is it still a bit hairy rolling it on and off Howard? Especially just after the front wheel, and just before the rear? I imagine your beast would be relatively low, to keep a low CG?
#13
Litre8
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 09:19 PM
Mate, really it's a piece of cake driving on and off the trailer. The trailer only weighs 420kgs and tows like a dream.
#14
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 10:55 PM
so blown308 you gonna give me some more details 
#15
_Woodsy_
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 11:03 PM
Its a rectangle.. i think you can work it out.......
#16
mitchg
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 11:09 PM
^^
Lol I think the pointy bit has him stumped.
Do your research on rules and regulations to get it registered and the frame will be a breeze (eg. 30/70 weight distribution or whatever it is in WA).
Use your imagination and common sense and you should have something which works. Long ramps will help with lowered cars, the scissor thing on the front may be an issue if once you drive the car on, the front will tip up and then smash back down due to the angle.
You will work it out, just make sure you actually finish it
Lol I think the pointy bit has him stumped.
Do your research on rules and regulations to get it registered and the frame will be a breeze (eg. 30/70 weight distribution or whatever it is in WA).
Use your imagination and common sense and you should have something which works. Long ramps will help with lowered cars, the scissor thing on the front may be an issue if once you drive the car on, the front will tip up and then smash back down due to the angle.
You will work it out, just make sure you actually finish it
#17
rodomo
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Posted 26 July 2011 - 11:16 PM
Draw bar material is 100mmx50mmx2mm tube
Drawbar length is 1300 from centre of coupling to front of trailer
TRAILER IS SUPPLIED WITH RAMPS (black only), 200MM WIDE X 2MTR LONG Dimensions:3700mm long X 1930mm wide (internal floor area)
Width is 2490mm from guard to guard (for access clearence)
SPARE HOLDER ON passenger side rear
Trailer is supplied with 205/65/15" used tyres on 14 or 15" rims Stud pattern is COMMODORE
Mechanical drum brakes on one axle
2.1mm checker plate floor
Frame material is 50x50x2.0 square tube cross brace on floor where sheets are joined, all additional floor cross braces are 50x25x2mm
SIDE RAIL IS 150x50x3.0mm rect tube
Floor support is every 500mm front to back
5 leaf 6mm slipper springs
7 pin flat connector for power supply
Spare wheel, jockey wheel, winch,chequer plate guards, new tyres, not included but can be purchased upon pick-up.
50mm snap coupling- quick release (with hand brake)
Carrying capacity is 1520kg (trailer weight is 480kg)
Gross vehicle mass 2000kg
Drawbar length is 1300 from centre of coupling to front of trailer
TRAILER IS SUPPLIED WITH RAMPS (black only), 200MM WIDE X 2MTR LONG Dimensions:3700mm long X 1930mm wide (internal floor area)
Width is 2490mm from guard to guard (for access clearence)
SPARE HOLDER ON passenger side rear
Trailer is supplied with 205/65/15" used tyres on 14 or 15" rims Stud pattern is COMMODORE
Mechanical drum brakes on one axle
2.1mm checker plate floor
Frame material is 50x50x2.0 square tube cross brace on floor where sheets are joined, all additional floor cross braces are 50x25x2mm
SIDE RAIL IS 150x50x3.0mm rect tube
Floor support is every 500mm front to back
5 leaf 6mm slipper springs
7 pin flat connector for power supply
Spare wheel, jockey wheel, winch,chequer plate guards, new tyres, not included but can be purchased upon pick-up.
50mm snap coupling- quick release (with hand brake)
Carrying capacity is 1520kg (trailer weight is 480kg)
Gross vehicle mass 2000kg
Attached Files
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trailer pic.jpg 34K
2 downloads
Edited by rodomo, 26 July 2011 - 11:20 PM.
#18
_Quagmire_
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 12:14 PM
josh...alex is selling his tandam....ring me about it
also...i seen one made with air bags to raise and lower it ......sure you could hook the lines up to do two only if you needed to
and tilt a traler has the same basic idea as you ....but they put a "locking" mechcanism and spring in there's to stop it tipping under load
also...i seen one made with air bags to raise and lower it ......sure you could hook the lines up to do two only if you needed to
and tilt a traler has the same basic idea as you ....but they put a "locking" mechcanism and spring in there's to stop it tipping under load
#19
_Woodsy_
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 07:08 PM
i've heard of people converting a caravan frame, dunno how practical that is though.
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 07:56 PM
Wouldnt be nerarly strong enough i dont recon.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#21
_Ozzie Picker_
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 08:09 PM
here,s mine
its been a pleasure to use,can get dirt,move funiture,drag on heavy items,as ramps close together so a trolley can be used.
its been a pleasure to use,can get dirt,move funiture,drag on heavy items,as ramps close together so a trolley can be used.
Edited by 73BATHXU1HTBATH350, 27 July 2011 - 08:15 PM.
#22
View GaragePosted 27 July 2011 - 09:06 PM
Depends on the caravan frame of course but not really suitable for a full sized car, a mate has done this for his off roader (which weighs stuff all) and its OK for that but nothing heavieri've heard of people converting a caravan frame, dunno how practical that is though.
#23
rodomo
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 09:15 PM
Axle not wide enough on a caravan chassis usually. Can't fit a car between the guards.
#24
_wombat_
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Posted 27 July 2011 - 11:04 PM
we have a air bag trailer that drops flat to get the drag car(altrered) on and off,compressor and tank in the a frame.
normaly gets more attention than the car, can take some pics when i get home next week if you want.
normaly gets more attention than the car, can take some pics when i get home next week if you want.
#25
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 28 July 2011 - 12:08 AM
yea that'd be great wombat...
cheers mate
cheers mate
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