20 replies to this topic

[S pack]

Just put the engine back in after replacing the sump gaskets to try & fix a small leak - but now I have a major leak!
Took the car for a 10 min run after putting it all back together, and all felt good, came back into the shed & popped the bonnet to find fresh oil sitting in the 2 grooves of the stone tray on the distributer side... I can also see at the front of the engine, just below the back of the balancer, it looks like oil has sprayed onto the stone tray... no oil on the manifold side of the tray though....
The oil has filled the grooves & run off the back of the stone tray - seems like a fair amount of oil too.
Can't work out where it's coming from, or why so much... had to call it a day, but will have to get back over & drop the stone tray and see what I can see...
God I hope I don't need to pull the engine back out! .... was trying to get it all back together for Eastern Creek this weekend too, now I might have to withdraw from that too :-(

Check your fuel pump if your running the original mechanical unit, could be leaking from the gasket or the relief hole in the pump body.

[orangeLJ]

fuel pump and sideplates, check them first.

Usually if they leak there, the airspeed/thermos will blow/spray the oil everywhere and make it look like its coming from other places.

Best bet is what quag said, clean it up and see where its coming from (even if you get someone to hold the revs up)

[rodomo]

Looks a bit like the sump gasket has squished out?

[S pack]

The addition of the silicone may have contributed to the problem by adding lubrication to the rubber seal and allowing it to slip and squash out more than normal.

[rodomo]

I glue the sump gasket to the block with contact adhesive first.
Let it go off.
Then, just bolt the sump up.

[orangeLJ]

Silicon works ok, but you need to wax and.grease everything perfectly beforehand. Id try prying the front section down and cleaning/siliconing it up first, if that dont work then off with the sump I say.

[S pack]

Yeah, well done Quagmire.
The info on using silicone with rubber seals is great... for next time (contact adhesive sounds like a great idea too)... but what about how to fix it NOW?
Could I just silicone up the joint between the timing cover & sump?

I'd really like to get it fixed before Wednesday so I can run at the creek on the weekend...

This is what we used to do when changing a camshaft without removing the engine or the sump.

Reassembly can be a bit of fun but can be done.

Loosen the first 6 or so sump bolts along each side of the block. Remove the harmonic balancer, timing cover and rubber sump gasket.
Remove all RTV silicone you can and degrease the sump and timing cover gasket surfaces. Install a new rubber gasket onto to the timing cover.
Apply non hardening gasket goo to the connecting tabs of the rubber gasket to the cork side gaskets.

Install the timing cover and ensure the connecting tabs squeeze in between the sump and the block to engage into the ends of the cork gaskets. You will need to gently pries the sump away from the block to do this (might need some extra pairs of hands with this step). Once the timing cover is installed and you're happy that the gaskets are all sitting in place properly you can tighten all the bolts and install the balancer.

Good Luck and if all else fails remove the sump and install all new gaskets without the RTV silicone.

Cheers
Dave.

[GML-31]

I'll stick with the old cork gaskets...

[orangeLJ]

I always use cork gaskets, didnt actually know they made rubber ones