Is it possible to repair paint chips on 2k metallic without stripping the whole panel and respraying? I have a few 'nasty neighbour' door chips that need attention. Most of them the primer remains, but I just found a new one that needs urgent attention as its down to metal.
I am aware that finish will probably not be perfect. But they need to be filled.
Ta.
Repairing paint chips on 2k.
Started by
smeer
, May 23 2006 04:17 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
smeer
-
- Members
-
- 1,526 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Car:1970 LC 4-door
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 23 May 2006 - 04:17 PM
#2
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 May 2006 - 05:41 PM
It really depends on how particular you want to be, of course you could just drop a bit of paint into the chips to hold off the rust from forming but they will still look like chips with paint in them.
Sometimes a chip can be feathered out very lightly with some fine grit like 2000-2500 wet rub paper and then you could drop some metallic basecoat in the area with a fine brush, then drop some 2K clear with fast hardener in it, making sure you put a bit extra in, then you would put some lights (infared) to harden the paint (or wait a day or two) then go back and rub the repaired area flat very lightly then buff.
This may or may not be successfull as different colours don't take to well to touch-ups or spot repairs (ie. Silvers always look different) and its most likely always going to be visible to someone looking closely.
By the time you go to the trouble of trying to repair a couple of paint chips in 2K your almost better off just repairing the chips then spot priming the areas and scuffing down the existing finish and blending your colour in and clearing the whole panel. You shouldn't need to strip all the paint off the panels providing the existing finish is in goood condition.
Again it will come down to how particular you want to be with it.
Sometimes a chip can be feathered out very lightly with some fine grit like 2000-2500 wet rub paper and then you could drop some metallic basecoat in the area with a fine brush, then drop some 2K clear with fast hardener in it, making sure you put a bit extra in, then you would put some lights (infared) to harden the paint (or wait a day or two) then go back and rub the repaired area flat very lightly then buff.
This may or may not be successfull as different colours don't take to well to touch-ups or spot repairs (ie. Silvers always look different) and its most likely always going to be visible to someone looking closely.
By the time you go to the trouble of trying to repair a couple of paint chips in 2K your almost better off just repairing the chips then spot priming the areas and scuffing down the existing finish and blending your colour in and clearing the whole panel. You shouldn't need to strip all the paint off the panels providing the existing finish is in goood condition.
Again it will come down to how particular you want to be with it.
#3
smeer
-
- Members
-
- 1,526 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Car:1970 LC 4-door
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 23 May 2006 - 06:40 PM
Thanks Pete. I won't be doing this myself. I'll be getting it done by professional painters. The paint finish is near-new. I've looked after it.. It's other peoples actions you can't control.
#4
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 May 2006 - 06:48 PM
I agree mate, there's nothing worse than putting all the time and money into getting your car how you like it then inconsiderate people go and open their car doors on them or lean all over them like they're a lounge chair....drives me insane!!!
I'm of the opinion everyone should repair,prepare and paint a car in their life as a character building experience!!.....then you'd find people would start to take care around them and show some consideration. Its even more infuriating when people say "oh, your a panel beater you can just fix that up no worries"........yes that may be the case but thanks for ruining a couple of weeks to months hard work!!!!!
I'm of the opinion everyone should repair,prepare and paint a car in their life as a character building experience!!.....then you'd find people would start to take care around them and show some consideration. Its even more infuriating when people say "oh, your a panel beater you can just fix that up no worries"........yes that may be the case but thanks for ruining a couple of weeks to months hard work!!!!!
#5
smeer
-
- Members
-
- 1,526 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Car:1970 LC 4-door
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 06 June 2006 - 01:25 AM
Alright, I've decided I'm going to tackle this one myself. The knowledge i gain from repairing these will be valuable... but first, I have a few more questions!
I'm going to go with the first suggested method (pete, your second suggestion makes no sence to me
sorry!).
Initially, I was hesitant to do this myself because I dont really know how to buff paint back to its original smooth finish.. but, perhaps someone can enlighten me
Now to the questions!
1. General question.. when you mention wet or wet/dry paper.. is it actually supposed to be used wet?
2. Sanding out the existing chip to make a more 'clean' surface to begin work. Any suggestions for sand paper?
3. Base Metallic. Should I be buying 1k acryllic or 2k? It's going to be applied with a small brush as suggested.
3. The 2k clear. How neccesary is this? Any particular reason you wouldn't overfill with the Base colour instead? Also applied with a small brush.
4. The big question. Buffing it all back. How exactly would I do this? As i mentioned above, I don't know anything about sanding and buffing paint silky smooth (like new).
Any help is grealy appreciated.
I'm going to go with the first suggested method (pete, your second suggestion makes no sence to me
sorry!).Initially, I was hesitant to do this myself because I dont really know how to buff paint back to its original smooth finish.. but, perhaps someone can enlighten me
Now to the questions!
1. General question.. when you mention wet or wet/dry paper.. is it actually supposed to be used wet?
2. Sanding out the existing chip to make a more 'clean' surface to begin work. Any suggestions for sand paper?
3. Base Metallic. Should I be buying 1k acryllic or 2k? It's going to be applied with a small brush as suggested.
3. The 2k clear. How neccesary is this? Any particular reason you wouldn't overfill with the Base colour instead? Also applied with a small brush.
4. The big question. Buffing it all back. How exactly would I do this? As i mentioned above, I don't know anything about sanding and buffing paint silky smooth (like new).
Any help is grealy appreciated.
#6
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 06 June 2006 - 01:34 AM
Years ago i borrowed a video from the local council libary and it covers this sort of thing in 2K. I know not all libary's are going to have it but if i track it down would it be worth a sydney member in the know doing something with it.
#7
makka
-
- Members
-
- 3,559 posts
A m��se once bit my sister
- Name:Cohen
- Location:ya daughters place
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 06 June 2006 - 02:04 PM
if the chips are on the edges, I would just use a small brush and mix up a little 2k topcoat and fill the chip with it, thats what did on my car and it come up pretty good, just done thin the paint too much
#8
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 06 June 2006 - 06:41 PM
i'll give you my opinions to your questions,
1. Wet or Dry sandpaper can be used like it says WET OR DRY, i'd recommend using it wet for this application particularly if your not experienced.
2. Depending on its size you wont rub the entire chip out flat with the rest of the paint, if you did this you'd probably need to spray your paint. Think of it as very slightly softening the edges and cleaning the surface so the paint will stick, you don't want to make the area needing paint any larger, the larger it gets the less likely your brush touch-up will become invisible. I'd recommend using either 2000 grit sandpaper wet.
3. I'd try and buy the same brand and type of paint that the car is painted in, if its 2K then to give your repair more chance of looking good by using 2K.
3. If your existing surface is 2K then i'd use 2K clear, the trouble is with 2K basecoat colour is it doesnt contain any gloss so if you try and rub this flat you will disturb the colour and it won't look right. You only overfill the area with 2K clear so you have some material to work with so you can sand it flat with the existing paint surface so when you buff it the finish will look even.
4. There a books and internet sites to read and plenty of people can give you advice on buffing here.
Maybe you should assess the costs involved here in repairing a few chips and consider how much your prepared to invest in such a small job, i'll try and give you a basic run down of what it will cost.
2K basecoat in cheap brand 250ml - $20-30
2K clear cheap brand 250ml - $20-30
2K hardener can usually only buy 1ltr minimum - $30
2K thinners 1ltr - $20-30
pencil brushes - $3-10each
wet or dry paper 2000-2500 grit - $1-2.50 per sheet
cutting compound $10 small tin
buff pad for machine polisher - $20-30
hand polish $20
sander-polisher machine buff $100-500 depending on brand
As you can appreciate such small chips may not warrant the expense, and if this is the only job you need to do then maybe it might be best to give one of the local mobile scratch specialists a ring and see how much they'd charge to do it for you. At least you wouldnt have a shelf full of expensive materials that you wont use again.
This process usually requires some level of experience in acheiving a respectable finish, Maybe try buying a small amount of basecoat colour in a touch-up tin and give them a small brush touch and see if your happy with it before going to a lot of expense with clears and buffing.
1. Wet or Dry sandpaper can be used like it says WET OR DRY, i'd recommend using it wet for this application particularly if your not experienced.
2. Depending on its size you wont rub the entire chip out flat with the rest of the paint, if you did this you'd probably need to spray your paint. Think of it as very slightly softening the edges and cleaning the surface so the paint will stick, you don't want to make the area needing paint any larger, the larger it gets the less likely your brush touch-up will become invisible. I'd recommend using either 2000 grit sandpaper wet.
3. I'd try and buy the same brand and type of paint that the car is painted in, if its 2K then to give your repair more chance of looking good by using 2K.
3. If your existing surface is 2K then i'd use 2K clear, the trouble is with 2K basecoat colour is it doesnt contain any gloss so if you try and rub this flat you will disturb the colour and it won't look right. You only overfill the area with 2K clear so you have some material to work with so you can sand it flat with the existing paint surface so when you buff it the finish will look even.
4. There a books and internet sites to read and plenty of people can give you advice on buffing here.
Maybe you should assess the costs involved here in repairing a few chips and consider how much your prepared to invest in such a small job, i'll try and give you a basic run down of what it will cost.
2K basecoat in cheap brand 250ml - $20-30
2K clear cheap brand 250ml - $20-30
2K hardener can usually only buy 1ltr minimum - $30
2K thinners 1ltr - $20-30
pencil brushes - $3-10each
wet or dry paper 2000-2500 grit - $1-2.50 per sheet
cutting compound $10 small tin
buff pad for machine polisher - $20-30
hand polish $20
sander-polisher machine buff $100-500 depending on brand
As you can appreciate such small chips may not warrant the expense, and if this is the only job you need to do then maybe it might be best to give one of the local mobile scratch specialists a ring and see how much they'd charge to do it for you. At least you wouldnt have a shelf full of expensive materials that you wont use again.
This process usually requires some level of experience in acheiving a respectable finish, Maybe try buying a small amount of basecoat colour in a touch-up tin and give them a small brush touch and see if your happy with it before going to a lot of expense with clears and buffing.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
