As my upper control arm is bent/twisted I need to change it. So needing to know the easiest way to do this. Do I have to drop the front crossmember from the chasis? Or can I remove the nuts, bolts and bushes from the pivot shaft and slide it out? Never done anything like this before and don't want to disconnect front crossmember from car if l don't have to.
Any advice would be appreciated.
How To Change Upper Control Arm
Started by
_Macka_
, Oct 02 2011 08:06 PM
5 replies to this topic
#2
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 02 October 2011 - 08:07 PM
Easyest way is to drop the x member.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#3
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:52 PM
It is easier with the front crossmember out but not neccesary. Its been a few years since I pulled mine apart but from memory you will need to remove: Road Wheel, Disc Caliper, Disc Rotar, Shock, Spring and seperate the balljoints between the stub axle and upper control arm. Then you should be able to unbolted the top arm.
Be aware using spring compressors on the spring is advisable or being the hell away when releasing the bottom balljoint to stub axle bolt and setting the spring free as it most likely will come out with a fair bit of force. Spring compresssors maybe required to reassemble.
Also you will need to rebleed the brake system as removing the calipher will require splitting the brakeline.
I've replaced the springs both with the crossmember in the car and out. It was far easier out of the car, but getting the crossmember lined up in the car did take maybe 40+ minutes to get it aligned and bolted up, and there's the other things you need to disconnect to get it out, brakes, steering, engine etc.
Steve
Be aware using spring compressors on the spring is advisable or being the hell away when releasing the bottom balljoint to stub axle bolt and setting the spring free as it most likely will come out with a fair bit of force. Spring compresssors maybe required to reassemble.
Also you will need to rebleed the brake system as removing the calipher will require splitting the brakeline.
I've replaced the springs both with the crossmember in the car and out. It was far easier out of the car, but getting the crossmember lined up in the car did take maybe 40+ minutes to get it aligned and bolted up, and there's the other things you need to disconnect to get it out, brakes, steering, engine etc.
Steve
#4
EunUCh
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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:12 AM
once you have the wheel,rotor etc off and everthing loose remove rubbers that insulate x member to chassis from both sides and jack up the front rail just enough to allow the arm to be removed,dont forget to keep the shim packs in the right order and check that nothing will get bent or bind when you jack it up.
Edited by NOBALLSUC, 03 October 2011 - 09:15 AM.
#5
_Mike73_
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Posted 03 October 2011 - 12:29 PM
Hello,
First remove the front shockies and undo the radius rod mountings, then loosen the inner lower control arm bolts that it pivots from, release the ball joint leaving the nut in place to stop if flying off.
Place a trolley jack under the lower control arm to take the weight when releasing the ball joint, in fact you can jack the car so that the ball joint nut that you have loosened becomes loose.
Alternatively you could make up a rod that takes the place of the shockie and holds the lower half all together without the spring expanding, then drop the whole front suspension which includes removing the brake lines and steering rack etc or at least pulling it forward to release the steering coupling, unless you dismantle the coulping itself.
If the engine is in the car you need to support this while you are doing the job ( a chain block would be useful.)
when you get the upper arms out a press is best to refit new bushes and whatever you do DONT USE NOLATHANE as these do not suit the design of these cars and cause damage to the suspension though extra stresses.
When replacing the bushes make yourself a spreader to support the arms and stop them from bending inwards when you are fitting the nuts of the upper pivot shaft.
Do not tighten up the pivot shaft nuts initally just a little as the arm needs to be in the working position and under load when tightened, I actually leave the rubber bushes to settle for a week or more without driving the car this is to allow the bushes time to squeeze up so to put less pressure on the arms, as they bend without much pressure.
Hope I have covered most of it for you,
Mike
Mike
First remove the front shockies and undo the radius rod mountings, then loosen the inner lower control arm bolts that it pivots from, release the ball joint leaving the nut in place to stop if flying off.
Place a trolley jack under the lower control arm to take the weight when releasing the ball joint, in fact you can jack the car so that the ball joint nut that you have loosened becomes loose.
Alternatively you could make up a rod that takes the place of the shockie and holds the lower half all together without the spring expanding, then drop the whole front suspension which includes removing the brake lines and steering rack etc or at least pulling it forward to release the steering coupling, unless you dismantle the coulping itself.
If the engine is in the car you need to support this while you are doing the job ( a chain block would be useful.)
when you get the upper arms out a press is best to refit new bushes and whatever you do DONT USE NOLATHANE as these do not suit the design of these cars and cause damage to the suspension though extra stresses.
When replacing the bushes make yourself a spreader to support the arms and stop them from bending inwards when you are fitting the nuts of the upper pivot shaft.
Do not tighten up the pivot shaft nuts initally just a little as the arm needs to be in the working position and under load when tightened, I actually leave the rubber bushes to settle for a week or more without driving the car this is to allow the bushes time to squeeze up so to put less pressure on the arms, as they bend without much pressure.
Hope I have covered most of it for you,
Mike
Mike
#6
_Macka_
_Macka_
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Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:29 PM
Thanks everyone just got it off. Was able to do it by using the engine hoist to take the weight of the motor and Jack under the xmember. Then took out the engine mount bolts to xmember and undid the steering arm along with the 4 chasis xmember bolts. Then lowered the Jack and this was enough to drop it low enough for upper control arm to slip out. Put it in the ground beside new one l was able to find today and it definitely has a twist in it. Probably about a 5-7mm twist and it seemed overall flatter than the other one. So fingers crossed I will put new one back in tomorrow night and it solves my problems.Once again thanks to everyone for their input.
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