
Tips on fitting front/rear windscreens
#26
Posted 29 October 2011 - 08:42 AM
outside(between glass and rubber & rubber & body),put w/screen in then run a bead of sealant then put lok strip in,the sealant should
ooze out a bit,then clean up with turpsy rag.
#27
Posted 29 October 2011 - 09:30 AM
I wanna get a new headlining but dont wanna take out my rear windscreen as theyre hard to get and it appears rust free in that area. (touch wood...) So wondering, is it possible to put a new headlining in with the rear windscreen still in?
NO. The headlining wraps up under the windscreen rubber.
No worries. Thanks mate. I thought that was probably the case. Might get a pro to come round and pop both of them out so I dont crack em. Cheers.
#28
Posted 30 October 2011 - 03:44 PM

This one here is the correct type of sealant to use? Is this black in colour?

#29
Posted 30 October 2011 - 11:35 PM
that when i had to replace a w/scrn that metal had started to rust,used the oil based sealant to replace a w/scrn
and no rust,i think the silicone based must have something in it that causes oxidization (acid based maybe,vinigar smell?)
#30
Posted 31 October 2011 - 07:54 AM
#31
Posted 31 October 2011 - 06:57 PM
When I fit screens I run a 4 to 6mm nylon cord in the groove, you can get in Bunnings. Run the cord around the window and overlap it by about 5inches at the BOTTOM and then taped the cord ends to the screen. Before I sit the window in the opening I give the rubber a light spray of WD40 on the rubber that will finish inside the car. The WD will make it very easy to pull the screen in. Sit the screen in the opening, start pulling one end of the cord towards the corner. When you get the lower corner on one side pull the other end to the next corner. Next work both cords around the corners. By the way as you pull the cord make sure that you pull it with your hand running against the glass. In other words make sure the cord is as close to the window as possible. As you pull the cord have someone gently tap down on the glass from the outside with an open hand ,not too hard but hard enough to help the rubber fall into place. The WD will do wonders with helping the rubber in. Do each side a bit of a time and if all is good when you reach the top edge you grab each end of the cord and pull each cord towards each other.
Hope this makes sense.
Ruts
Just so there is no confusion , should we assume you first put the rubber around the windscreen, line the outside edge with the rope, place the screen on the car and from inside pull pull on the rope?
OR
Are you saying put the rubber on the car first, then line the the inside glass groove with the rope, then place svreen in?
Edited by fuzzypumper, 31 October 2011 - 06:57 PM.
#32
Posted 31 October 2011 - 09:53 PM
#33
Posted 31 October 2011 - 10:00 PM
#34
_Viper_
Posted 31 October 2011 - 10:31 PM
I prefer to fit it all dry then when your happy poke the nozzle under the rubber and squeeze it in, then fit locking strip.
A few times we have tried fitting windows only to find we were not centered and have to pull it out and start again... and im sure glad there wasnt any sealant in there
#35
Posted 02 November 2011 - 01:51 PM
Bought this instead??? Should do the trick????


#36
Posted 16 November 2011 - 05:49 PM

#37
Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:55 PM
Yeah mate that clothes line type cord should do nicely as long as it's at least 4mm in dia.
The K&H windscreen sealer sound like it will be OK as well.
The Rare Spares 'Mylar (chrome) strip' is a bit wider than the original Mylar for the LH - UC screens.
Surprises me they haven't addressed this problem as they would sell plenty of it. Probably because they don't make it.
Think I read somewhere it fits Valiant windscreens perfectly, but I could be mistaken.
Cheers
Dave.
Edited by S pack, 16 November 2011 - 08:55 PM.
#38
Posted 17 November 2011 - 07:57 AM
Hmmmm, that cord is closer to 3mm in diam... Might have to take a look at bunnings for something thicker??
The chrome locking strip that I have is 12mm in total width, the edges of it are clear and just the centre is chrome? Not sure if this is correct stuff to use? It was supplied with my rubber kit which uses Rare Spares rubbers. I would have thought the chrome section should be wider to match up with the corner locking pieces???


Hoping this tool makes fitted the locking strip easier?

Edited by hanra, 17 November 2011 - 07:58 AM.
#39
Posted 17 November 2011 - 05:57 PM
3mm cord will probably do ok , esp as what you've got is so smooth, but 4mm would be better.Thinner cord is more likely to tear the rubber lip on the corners if you aren't careful.
With the Mylar insert they never have the chrome right across to the tips of the edges. The original genuine Mylar had clear edges.
The profile of the Mylar you have looks more like the LC/LJ insert not LH - UC. LH Mylar is flatter and wider, as in it should match the profile of the corner piece.
I'll put up a pic later of the genuine LC/LJ Mylar.
#40
Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:00 PM
The cord is 3.5mm. Ill have a sus at Bunnings for something thicker. Plenty of soapy water for lube???
Yes I would have expected the chrome locking strip to also match the profile of the corner piece.... Hmmmm...
#41
Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:16 PM
#42
_toranarama_
Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:20 PM
Allows both movement, whilst holding it's curvature + D Mastic EVERYWHERE including where the glass goes in the rubber is the G.O.
Prick of a mess to clean everything up but 100% g'teed leak proof for 30+ years

Edited by toranarama, 17 November 2011 - 06:21 PM.
#43
Posted 21 November 2011 - 01:31 PM
#44
Posted 21 November 2011 - 05:34 PM
http://youtu.be/Pz8xwxi2MGc
#45
_UCV80_
Posted 22 November 2011 - 07:28 AM
#46
Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:47 PM
Front screen took all of 5mins! Havnt sealed it yet as Ill wait till I get my NOS locking strip, and seal it just before I fit that.


My trusty tools!!!

#47
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:09 PM
Front screen took all of 5mins!
Now you're a PRO!
#48
Posted 24 November 2011 - 10:13 AM
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