22 replies to this topic

[jonesy]

as stated in the title i would like a few opinions on the pros and cons to having commodore stud pattern on flared lx/lh?

cheers

Edited by jonesy, 15 December 2011 - 05:41 AM.

[dattoman]

A pattern is a pattern.... the issue is wheel offset if your using factory Commodore wheels

It will look stupid as the wheels on a Commodore are more set in and they won't be filling the guard let alone the flares

[ls2lxhatch]

+1 Find the wheels you want first, check the offsets available then what patterns they are available in.

It appears that in some states the engineers will not allow re-drilled discs so you would want to have you brake choice sorted before you commit to a stud pattern.

I have Commodore pattern because I wanted to run Commodore rear discs and my wheels were custom made so I could have any pattern or offset I wanted. In hind site for my application I would have been better of using HQ pattern with 1/2" studs which would just require enlarging the holes in the rear Commodore disks. The front brakes are Hoppers which are available in any pattern you want as they have blank discs. The 290 and 330 kits use Ford discs.

Go Ford stud pattern. This gives you off the shelf stock bits for the rear brakes, virtually unbreakable studs, and the greatest range of rims known to man. Ford also has the same centre bore as HQ. So if you are using HQ front discs, just order them blank and away you go. I would use AU on offset as it is closer to Torana than pre-AU. The advantage is the AU wheels will be correctly located on the undrilled HQ discs. This offers several advantages.

Torana offset: +32

AU on offset: +35

pre-AU offset: +6

For the sakes of throwing it in, HQ is +13 and most VB - VZ is +43.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 15 December 2011 - 11:14 AM.

[StephenSLR]

You can choose BMW rims as they have the same pattern as Commo, they come in a variety of offsets but not necessarily a variety for each style.

s

[StephenSLR]

finding the correct offset wheels second hand was near impossible.

There are some BMW that come close but whether you like the style is another matter.

s

[StephenSLR]

bigger studs are a cheap insurance upgrade.

They're not really that much bigger and the wheel isn't supposed to rest on the studs they work in tension not shear. If the wheel is loose and starts wobbling up and down hitting the studs, bigger studs won't help you by much. If it gives you peace of mind ... by all means....

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 24 August 2012 - 07:59 AM.

[StephenSLR]

Having lost a wheel before (at speed) I could never not fit ARP 1/2 studs with their higher tensile strength.

Losing a wheel wasn’t due to the stud size, more like the bolts were loosened or the wheel wasn’t centred properly and when that happens a bigger stud will not save you.

Even the dunnydores have gone from 12mm to 14mm studs. That alone should give some clue as to bigger studs being of value

Not really, The companies engineer the components to suit each other, bigger studs will be fitted to bigger axles, etc. Unless there is a design flaw and they’re known to shear you shouldn’t have to worry about it.

Of course in certain applications where safety is paramount i.e. drag racing, they tend to change the studs after each meet, drag racers replace their diffs just as often as well but they don’t go to a larger size so it’s a different scenario altogether.

Changing your studs more often would be another option to keep safer as metal under tension does fatigue over time, it’s known as ‘creep’.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 24 August 2012 - 09:54 AM.

[StephenSLR]

7/16 were used on the banjo diff so it's not surprising as they're the bolt for that diff/axle combo.

The BW diffs were stronger and used the 12mm bolt so it's safe to use that bolt for that application.

If you're going to need a stronger diff/axle combo yet again, yeah, you may want to have 14mm bolts.

s

[StephenSLR]

Funny but people spend a fortune on hp and big wheels but forget about brakes,axles,steering etc. Bigger wheels, bigger tyres, more hp, all means more load and stress on components.

The same goes with engines, many go overboard with the heads, carbs, cams, etc. and forget about the crank and bottom end.

s

[StephenSLR]

damaged 7/16" UNF and 12 mm wheel studs due to low grade material or dirt caught in the threads.

So by 'damage' you mean worn threads?

s

[StephenSLR]

I have seen literally hundreds of damaged 7/16" UNF and 12 mm wheel studs due to low grade material or dirt caught in the threads.

This can affect the tension and a secure wheel is all about having the wheel face pressed hard against the hub surface.

This video may surprise some here



Thankfully in Aus. jobsites all bolts have to be galvanised.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 06 September 2012 - 07:33 PM.