28 replies to this topic

[BIG KEV]

hi guys i would like to know if anyone runs this combo behind a 5lt dose it fit in with no mods to floor using same shifter hole and i know the linkages are on the passengers side from what i have been told some slr / a9x was standard is this a good around box or is it best to talk to mal woods about the tko . . . thanks for any info

[myss427]

Fitted both boxes to Torana, and the TKO is the easiest and plus you get an overdrive! T10 is the cheapest and I made a shifter that sat on top of the box like a depress from a Hurst speedway shifter. But you still had to press the foor 10mm, to allow for shifter likage access with the reverse linkage and the 1st & 2nd linkage.

Edited by dattoman, 12 January 2012 - 05:53 PM.

[BIG KEV]

ok thanks so if i use the t10 i will have to heat & stretch the floor by 10mm no probs what about shifter location ... & did toranas come out with these boxes .... which way would you go

[myss427]

Thats if you use the shifter I did, had to make the shift rods and the mounting bracket etc.

[76lxhatch]

I managed to get a Muncie, very similar to a T10, to fit without significant floor mods (trimmed the shifter hole only and could probably have worked around that too). I mounted the Hurst Indy shifter lower and slightly closer in to the box, and modified the linkages to run out of the way:










It all depends on which parts you prefer to modify. The tunnel is easy to change if the car is stripped, but the console won't fit with a shifter mounted too high on the side.

edit: the floor was already cut excessively from a previous gearbox, hence the extra large hole

Edited by 76lxhatch, 12 January 2012 - 01:19 PM.

[myss427]

76lxhatch, your shifter is a little simpler than the one i did but we achieved exactly the same outcome. Mounting the rods on the inside of the box shift levers save the most room. My shifter body comes through the floor, sits higher and 2 inches to the right. Had to trim an inch out of the standard hole for clearance, just misses the console!

Edited by myss427, 12 January 2012 - 02:24 PM.

[yel327]

You can turn the shift selectors upside down too, and make the box shift upside down. Left down = 1st, up to 2nd, down and across the 3rd, up to 4th. The rods then clear the floor and tunnel.

[BIG KEV]

hey thanks for all your info still unsure witch way to go .... the t10 sounds like it will do the job but i like the idea of the tko only because of the 5th gear

[76lxhatch]

76lxhatch, your shifter is a little simpler than the one i did but we achieved exactly the same outcome. Mounting the rods on the inside of the box shift levers save the most room. My shifter body comes through the floor, sits higher and 2 inches to the right. Had to trim an inch out of the standard hole for clearance, just misses the console!

Yep mine clears at the shifter end easy due to the way I've dropped everything, including cutting the stick mounting holes off the shifter and welding the stick extension on. You will probably have the advantage of a shorter throw with the pivot point higher up (the Hurst mechanism is very short to begin with though so its not too bad). Speco still lists a centreshift shifter on their web site similar to the Aussie 4 speed shifter but I mentioned it on another thread and apparently it is no longer available.

You can turn the shift selectors upside down too, and make the box shift upside down. Left down = 1st, up to 2nd, down and across the 3rd, up to 4th. The rods then clear the floor and tunnel.

I wonder how long it would take to get used to, interesting thought.

[BIG KEV]

ok when you said it ciears at shifter end due to the way you have dropped everything what exactly did you meen & are we talking t10 or tko....... thanks again

[yel327]

I wonder how long it would take to get used to, interesting thought.

I had a HQ Belmont van at the time with a Speco centreshift on a 3spd, and it was 1st left down, across and up to 2nd and down to 3rd, so I was sort of used to 1st being where it was, when I tried this on a Chev and Muncie in a UC I bought once.

[SS hatch]

One thing to keep in mind as well ratios from memory mines a T10 S box there are many standard configurations. Giving a first gear of 2.43 very tall compared to a standard M20 -3.05. Even with 3.5s in the ass still fairy tall.But ya cant kill em some of the punishment dished out over the years and never a prob.Not like m20-1 explosions thank god for after market parts.The console with shifter linkage body is a prob but can be engineered out as discribed the Hurst with short throw works well with a mod to centre shift lever .

[BIG KEV]

ok i have to look at ratios for the t10 .... T10S is this a super T10 and yes i have heard that they are a tough box.just tring to get as much info as i can as i am buying a new box from the states will have to ask about shifter options ..... i would some how like to make the shifter look like the factory m21 when you look insde the car...... thanks again

[76lxhatch]

Mine is a Muncie M20 with 2.52:1 first and 3.23:1 diff ratio - first is a little on the tall side but not a problem and the closer ratios are great. Don't think I would like to go any taller diff ratio though.

ok when you said it ciears at shifter end due to the way you have dropped everything what exactly did you meen & are we talking t10 or tko....... thanks again

Muncie in the pics above, but they use the same shifters as T10 (one rod is slightly different I think?). Compare to a standard one bolted straight on, they are normally a lot higher. For example compare this to the above pics:


The height difference is obvious; also its a little hard to see but the stick sits directly above the shifter, way left.

There are a few threads on here about fitting T10s and Muncies, and the surgery required to the tunnel. Kind of a moot point though if you're going with the TKO now.

[SS hatch]

When my car was still one piece when looking inside ya neva known a t10 was installed. Thats with standard boot cover,console.Not dirting the old rockboxes or crunchboxes as we called em tuff box as well but I was told they could be nasty changing through the gears was this mainly the shifter.Only cutting to trans tunnel we did was for shifter body, linkages nothing a bit of streaching metal didnt fix. Because running a 3" tailshaft had to lower gbox by shimming crossmember downthis helped too.Thats the other positive for T10 uses same Torana crossmember .Its all 25 years ago but I think a different gearbox mount is needed and the extra holes are standard to set cross member back towards diff. And yes Borgwarner super T10- s box.But just because it's stamped that doesnt mean its still the same inside I still believe parts,gears are still redeally available as many of the drag boys use this box.Google T10 Ratios plenty info with all ratios of box designation.

[myss427]

You use the standard crossmember with the T10, but you need to shift it back to the next set of bolt holes on the chais rails. Also you get a L shaped plate bent up that bolts to the base of the mount and steps down 30mm and 50mm foward to locate the box in the correct position (A9X factory one's were like that). Uncle Festa let us take some measurements a while ago to make our own (thanks!).

[SS hatch]

No L brakets on my setup thinking more I think a different gb mount was used as 30mm down would have been a advatage but 50 forward would not work on my setup.As you say use other chais rail holes other than all lines up well.May be bellhousing solved this issue as it was aftermarket Dellow to suit. The L bracket Im not sure hows this is positioned as all bolts to gb -cross member are vertical can you enlighten me.As I would like to piss the lowering shims off.bettween the chassis and crossmember.

[BIG KEV]

thanks for the great info

[Torananut]

These may help. These are the factory engineering details sent to race teams to modify L34s to A9Xs. Measurements are in imperial by the looks of it.

Notice there are no dimentions for the floor pan blister.

 A9X T10 patch.jpg   322.65K   46 downloads

 A9X Crossmember plate 1.jpg   170.55K   54 downloads

 A9X Crossmember plate 2.jpg   101.21K   29 downloads

 A9X Crossmember plate 3.jpg   169.52K   39 downloads

 A9X Crossmember plate 4.jpg   104.02K   31 downloads

[76lxhatch]

same cross member but when i try to fit it in the lh for some reason the hole's would not line up

What sort of cross member and how close to lining up are they? Maybe you just have it backwards?

[myss427]

As that drawing above shows you just need to make that plate that bolt directly to the standard LH/X cross member. I did not use the rib underneath as the plate I made was out of 7mm steel plate and was very strong, I cut a slot in the front of the cross member bolted it to the existing holes (A9X ones were welded) and bolted the mount to the lower stepped section. Looked just like the drawing and the gearbox lined up perfect. You can see the crossmember in My Garage (Holden Torana A9X (2012)) section, second page. There is a pic of it showing a Tuff mount bolted to it.

Edited by myss427, 26 January 2013 - 10:26 PM.