I have just started to replace the rear main on a mates GEN 3 VT Wagon after the job was blackbanned by every mechanic within a hundred Kilometre radius of Dunsborough.
I have gone with removing the tranny first after a bit of googling to find best practice/method .There has been a fair bit of swearing allready but have been making steady progress this arvo and hopefully trans will be on the deck in the morning i can't believe the placement of wiring harness"clips" and the shallow headed 15mm bolts on bellhousing and flywheel drive bolts with starter motor not moving forward enough to give clear access to crack bolts .{do you need to drop steering rack to replace starter on a VT} .
Anyway enough ranting just wondering if anyone has any usefil tips or hints to make this job easier .
Garth
9 replies to this topic
#1
fatslr
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Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:40 PM
#2
greens nice
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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:36 PM
not really, just have alot of fun getting the top BH bolts and the dipstick tube bolt in and out if you dont have tiny hands.
they're not THAT bad
they're not THAT bad
Edited by greens nice, 01 February 2012 - 10:38 PM.
#3
_Quagmire_
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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:52 PM
pay someone else to do it 
and try poking your tongue in different directions
and try poking your tongue in different directions
#4
dattoman
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 01:11 AM
Hoist baby
Its a 3.5 hr job to remove and replace a clutch including flywheel on a Gen3 Commodore
A good mechanic can do it in less time
And spring for a genuine rear main seal... we've had some aftermarket ones leak
Also check the spigot bearing isn't damaged
We had 3 concentric slave cylinders fail on a car that someone didn't bother to check the bush on and the input shaft was waving about causing the cylinder to crack ... assuming manual here
Its a 3.5 hr job to remove and replace a clutch including flywheel on a Gen3 Commodore
A good mechanic can do it in less time
And spring for a genuine rear main seal... we've had some aftermarket ones leak
Also check the spigot bearing isn't damaged
We had 3 concentric slave cylinders fail on a car that someone didn't bother to check the bush on and the input shaft was waving about causing the cylinder to crack ... assuming manual here
#5
fatslr
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:37 AM
There are obviously no good mechanics around the southwest as they all balked when asked to do this "3.5" hour job.
We have bought a genuine "kit" including bolts from Holden so should be ok there.
I agree "HOIST" would make this job a f$#k load easier the car is automatic .
We have bought a genuine "kit" including bolts from Holden so should be ok there.
I agree "HOIST" would make this job a f$#k load easier the car is automatic .
#6
_mumbo_
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:52 AM
Starter is easy did mine couple weeks ago just pulled headers of and lifted starter out the top
#7
dattoman
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:54 AM
Brenden at southwest brakes would have done it
He works on lots of crap cars (imports)
hahahaha
He works on lots of crap cars (imports)
hahahaha
#8
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:35 PM
Sorry to bump and old thread, just doing the CLutch on the VX SS after it decided to pack it in Sunday Night (Merry Christmas :( )
So the genuine rear main seals are the way to go? Looks like just leaver the thing out and push the new one in?
Steve
So the genuine rear main seals are the way to go? Looks like just leaver the thing out and push the new one in?
Steve
#9
fatslr
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 01:10 PM
Hey Steve
I bought the complete genuine kit which comes with seal already installed into new seal housing and new mount bolts costs a bit more but you don't want to have to revisit it the changeout of the actual seal/housing was the easiest bit of the job i just used some wet and dry on crank where seal runs to clean up witness mark from original seal ,still good now.
I bought the complete genuine kit which comes with seal already installed into new seal housing and new mount bolts costs a bit more but you don't want to have to revisit it the changeout of the actual seal/housing was the easiest bit of the job i just used some wet and dry on crank where seal runs to clean up witness mark from original seal ,still good now.
#10
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:27 AM
Garth, I also just got the plate from Holden with the new seals on it. It makes it easy with the white plastic ring in the middle of the seal. Just bolt in the plate and the crank pushes the plastic ring out when it slides on.
Steve
Steve
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