G-day,
I am planning to upgrade my front disc brakes in my LJ (for a V8 conversion down the track), the engineer is happy for me to use HQ PBR brakes. I was down at CRS a couple of months back and got a HQ brake conversion kit from them.
I was wondering if anyone knew of some places to get refurbished or reproduction HQ brakes? Also I have 13" wheels are they going to fit?
LJ Front Brakes Upgrade
Started by
_dasdog1_
, Feb 10 2012 01:37 PM
22 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:23 PM
No they will not fit 13's
#3
xu2308
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 10:10 PM
Get some LX V8 Disc and Calipers for your LJ Torana, they work well with a 308 V8 LJ and can be ok for a V8 Conversion and take ya 13" LJ Wheels, the LX Brake Pads are way bigger than the standard LJ ones
#4
dattoman
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 10:16 PM
However... the standard LJ caliper is a better design
And coupled with the thicker XU1 disc makes it the same dimensions as the LH-UC disc
Put some decent pads in those stock calipers (with the spacers to take the wider discs) and you'll be a happy chappy for less money
And coupled with the thicker XU1 disc makes it the same dimensions as the LH-UC disc
Put some decent pads in those stock calipers (with the spacers to take the wider discs) and you'll be a happy chappy for less money
#5
_Mike73_
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Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:55 PM
I agree the LJ calliper has more piston area having two for each calliper, instead on one in the LX, that pad area difference would be of little consequence.
LX were using lighter componets, but they were not as good as the LC/ LJ units, but if you are fitting a V8 weight is probably not an issue.
Another option is to fit 14" wheels and HT Monaro brakes like some of the original race teams did, according to the write ups at the time. if you do this you will have the same original stud pattern back and front.
To my knowlege Holden never built HQ style brakes with the earlier HK stud pattern so appart from not having clearance to fit the callipers the stud pattern will be wrong unless this has been changed by your supplier.
Unless you will be racing it I would not change too much from original, if they were good enough for Bathurst in 1970- 1974 they would be good enough for me.
If you have properly serviced componets your brakes will be great, brake fade is only an issue under severe conditions, but some of this can be eliminated too.
I would suggest you look into fitting a booster with the larger check valve though for quicker recharging of the vaccume chamber.
Be warned changing brakes can be dangerous if not done correctly!
Tthe rear brake cylinders must be the correct one to avoid rear wheel lock up, if you are changing from a drum set up this will occur, unless the rear brakes are set up correctly.
Mike
LX were using lighter componets, but they were not as good as the LC/ LJ units, but if you are fitting a V8 weight is probably not an issue.
Another option is to fit 14" wheels and HT Monaro brakes like some of the original race teams did, according to the write ups at the time. if you do this you will have the same original stud pattern back and front.
To my knowlege Holden never built HQ style brakes with the earlier HK stud pattern so appart from not having clearance to fit the callipers the stud pattern will be wrong unless this has been changed by your supplier.
Unless you will be racing it I would not change too much from original, if they were good enough for Bathurst in 1970- 1974 they would be good enough for me.
If you have properly serviced componets your brakes will be great, brake fade is only an issue under severe conditions, but some of this can be eliminated too.
I would suggest you look into fitting a booster with the larger check valve though for quicker recharging of the vaccume chamber.
Be warned changing brakes can be dangerous if not done correctly!
Tthe rear brake cylinders must be the correct one to avoid rear wheel lock up, if you are changing from a drum set up this will occur, unless the rear brakes are set up correctly.
Mike
Edited by Mike73, 11 February 2012 - 01:07 PM.
#6
xu2308
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:13 PM
Mike and Datto what u say is true but the engineering dudes think cause of the bigger pad area of LX pads set up that they are better in stopping a V8 LJ than the original LJ Brake set up, so u have to upgrade to V8 LX Disc and Calipers in Tassy and Victoria as fas as i know to get your engineering report and put in ya Chassis bolt in kit
#7
dattoman
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:27 PM
Engineers are people with a piece of paper on the wall and a few letters after their names
But I challenge them often on brake issues and usually win
There is no benefit to using LH-UC brakes over the original LC-J ones and I'll argue that with anyone
But I challenge them often on brake issues and usually win
There is no benefit to using LH-UC brakes over the original LC-J ones and I'll argue that with anyone
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:32 PM
Another option is to fit 14" wheels and HT Monaro brakes like some of the original race teams did, according to the write ups at the time. if you do this you will have the same original stud pattern back and front.
Arnt they the same as LC/LJ??
#9
dattoman
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:47 PM
Same caliper
270mm disc up from 256
270mm disc up from 256
#11
Collo
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:16 PM
HQ or better I got told by an engineer when I looked into it for my LC.
#12
_Mike73_
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:42 PM
HQ or better I got told by an engineer when I looked into it for my LC.
I would not like the idea of having two different spares at all times to fit the different stud patterns front and rear.
I understand Hydraulics too, and two pistons have much force than one on either the LH- UC or the HQ, if you were talking of heat dissapation, I agree that the ventalated ones and larger pads would dissapate heat better, but that does not mean that any of those are as good as a LC LJ calliper set up at normal temperatures, they simply are not!
Is this car going to be raced, I don't think so!
Even these brakes at Bathurst were just adequite, and I doubt he will be driving like that.
Mike
Mike
#13
Collo
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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:45 PM
That's why you either change the diff/rear stud pattern to HQ, or use blank HQ discs drilled to Torana pattern.
Assuming the latter are available.
Assuming the latter are available.
Edited by slr_v8, 12 February 2012 - 10:46 PM.
#14
ribz0
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Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:48 AM
I'm a big fan of running HQ/J brakes! I did the conversion on mine and for a budget build, it was well worth the effort with little expence.
Yes, you need to run 14" wheels and yes, you need to do something to the rear as running two spares would be a pain. I had rear axles made as I did not want to do a diff conversion and I am running the whole braking system off a HJ Statesman, rear drums, fluid system the lot. On the small LC, it stops like nothing!!
It all depends on the $$$ you want to spend...
Yes, you need to run 14" wheels and yes, you need to do something to the rear as running two spares would be a pain. I had rear axles made as I did not want to do a diff conversion and I am running the whole braking system off a HJ Statesman, rear drums, fluid system the lot. On the small LC, it stops like nothing!!
It all depends on the $$$ you want to spend...
#15
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 14 February 2012 - 11:29 AM
Will the engineer accept turned down HQ discs? I think they will fit with 13" rims? The HQ calliper is bolted to the disc brake Torana stub so you can check rim clearance before doing the conversion.
Picture from this topic
Picture from this topic
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 14 February 2012 - 11:30 AM.
#16
_dave73t_
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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:49 AM
Hi All,
I'm about to have my LJ Chev 305 engineered in Victoria, I went with the HQ brake set up, the calipers fit straight on but you need to have the rotor diameter turned down to the same diameter of the original lj rotor. i purchased HQ blank rotors and had the LJ stud pattern drilled out, I then slightly modified the calipers to fit the 13" sprintmaster mags. Also you need the outside face of the rotor trimmed by about one millimetre as the disc pad sits to hard up against the rotor. You may also need to have new longer brake lines made as well. It's a fairly easy setup and I believe I should pass the brake fade test quite easliy due to the rotors benig ventilated, Cheers David.
I'm about to have my LJ Chev 305 engineered in Victoria, I went with the HQ brake set up, the calipers fit straight on but you need to have the rotor diameter turned down to the same diameter of the original lj rotor. i purchased HQ blank rotors and had the LJ stud pattern drilled out, I then slightly modified the calipers to fit the 13" sprintmaster mags. Also you need the outside face of the rotor trimmed by about one millimetre as the disc pad sits to hard up against the rotor. You may also need to have new longer brake lines made as well. It's a fairly easy setup and I believe I should pass the brake fade test quite easliy due to the rotors benig ventilated, Cheers David.
#17
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:31 PM
Are you keen to keep the same stud pattern? I actually run HQ brakes with VK-VS discs (turned down 5mm) on my 304 conversion and the engineer absolutely loved it. Cost me stuff all and stops on a dime. But you have to convert to commodore pattern, which worked perfect as I did a BW78 conversion on the rear, making the wheels super common and the diff is way cheaper than 9".
Edited by tyre fryer, 16 March 2012 - 06:36 PM.
#18
_XU1-043_
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Posted 23 March 2012 - 07:14 PM
i run 298mm rotors with twin piston callipers and stock vn commodore on the back, only downside is you have to have minimum 15inch rim for the front, i run 16 inch simmons.
#19
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 26 March 2012 - 01:46 AM
What model calipers/discs and how did you mount them Craig? Mine are all very good atm but I'm going to go into hillclimb events eventually and would like something high-performance.
#20
_shan620_
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Posted 01 April 2012 - 04:50 PM
have HX Girlock calipers and slotted rotors, i was told the Girlock calipers are better cause they dont have much play and noise and are also made of alloy. I bought the calipers from a fella and dropped them off the the local brake shop where he rebuilt them for me pretty cheap.
#21
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 16 April 2012 - 11:44 AM
I ahev the cast HQ calipers as I was told by my brake guy to avoid the alloy calipers as they tend to flex.
Just somwthing to think about.
Just somwthing to think about.
#22
_shan620_
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Posted 16 April 2012 - 04:54 PM
how would a caliper flex? They seemed to work alright on the HX's with no problems. I was told to go the alooy coz its alot lighter and doesnt rattle.
#23
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:23 PM
Also pretty interested in what calipers and rotors you're running.i run 298mm rotors with twin piston callipers and stock vn commodore on the back, only downside is you have to have minimum 15inch rim for the front, i run 16 inch simmons.
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