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Brake Booster strip down.

Backyard style

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#1 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 03:17 PM

Hi ,

Need help on replacing the rear shaft out of one booster into the other,made a backyard style tool and have separated the housing,now how do i get into the guts of this next peice.By the looks of things maybe undo the large nut,and if so how do you hold the rest of the thing to do this.

In the pics,i need to use the rat trap deal,this is early HK and the other is later model,with a longer shaft,and put the new looking guts into other one,if you get my ramblings.

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#2 Shtstr

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 04:57 PM

if the booster was working well i would of cut and shut it.

#3 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 06:09 PM

Didn,t know what i had till i opened the booster,i,ve got a pile of second had boosters,and picked one that looked good with a torch.

Anyways,ive got both striped right down, the other is very ugly and i broke a plastic peice,so now i,m gunna have to cut and shut or order a new peice.

This is a backyard thread on using parts you have without spending money,i think a rebuild is about $370 plus postage,i,m hoping to get out of this with time only,see how we go.

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#4 dattoman

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 09:41 PM

I'm going to grab some popcorn for this one

#5 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 05:18 PM

Hi datto,

I can see why they want 370 bucks to do the job,but with 3 girls wanting i pads, i phones etc there,s hardly a cent for me,anyway i needed to use the front case of the rusty booster to keep date code for the monaro,and cut and shut the rod to fit,putting together is always a bit slower,but i ended up getting it right,and the rubbers in the reco,d ht booster are sweet as.

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#6 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 05:23 PM

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#7 71xu1

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 06:35 PM

Is that molasses in the oil drain tray? I've heard it works very well.
Cheers Dave

#8 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:01 PM

Is that molasses in the oil drain tray? I've heard it works very well.
Cheers Dave


Molasses is fantastic,usually 10 litres water ,1 litre molassis,but this time i cheated by using hydrocloric acid,the lid for the master cylinder took 10seconds,and get it out and throw in water,then coat in wd40,

the rusty front section of the booster took about 15 minutes as this was very rusty,i then wash with water then use dioxideen and then paint.

The acid is fantastic on getting things done quick,but don,t breath in the fumes as it will knock you,i use molassis on all sorts of things now,throw in a very rusty item in a 44 gallon drum full of the mix,pull out 1 week later and looks brand new,even silver,unbeleivable,the guys told me about using it in fuel tanks,and it worked so good i keep a drum full at all times and cover it so it doesn,t evaparate,best thing is you chuck in things forgete about them,when you remember it has worked a treat,wash with water,then dioxideen,wash then paint,best stuff ever,and cheap.

#9 _rogered_

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 07:41 AM

I have got mine in bits at the moment so these photos are great.
Im about to fit a new seal in the center diamphram plate thing (the one on the right on the 5Th photo)
Im scratching my head here , do you now which way around the seal goes?

Cheers
Roger

#10 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:38 PM

Can you put up some pictures and hold peices either way,so me or dattoman can help.

It makes it much easier that way,for all of us.

#11 _rogered_

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 05:15 PM

Hi Gents

This seal
Lost my sketch showing the correct way to place this seal (XU1 Booster)
I guess i could ask, part number in or out?
Thanks in advance

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#12 S pack

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 05:59 PM

The rubber coated face with the part number on it faces up. You will notice the metal casing of the seal is curled inwards, this helps the seal to slide into its recess. Apply some rubber grease around the edge of the seal and also in the recess.
Press the seal in evenly and smoothly, bashing with a hammer could crack the bakelite ring inside the seal.




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