I'm thinking about rewiring 'purple'.
I get confused by electric spaghetti, to the point where i just don't do it.
I see the GM kits & others advertised, but i wouldn't know a good kit from a bad one.
I plan on throwing the kit at an autospark & crossing my fingers. Let him deal with the stress. lol
I plan on hiding as much of the engine bay wiring as possible. I also have a injected 304 installed. I will require a couple more circuits for 'extras' to be added later.
So my question is.... can i buy a kit suitable for my application, or am i better to have one made by someone like Castlehill ect?
Do these 'kits' have enough length to hide the wiring? How do they hook up to the dash? Are the old plugs used? Can i even buy a kit to suit the efi? Are there any prefered suppliers?
Regards, Col.
Wiring kits. Educate me.
Started by
Statler
, Apr 02 2012 10:30 AM
20 replies to this topic
#1
Statler
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:30 AM
#2
TerrA LX
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:32 PM
If you are taking it to an auto sparky why not discuss your needs with him and let him use his own wire and supply a new fuse/relay box etc where you want them?
Whole point of an after market loom is DIY...
Whole point of an after market loom is DIY...
#3
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 03:13 PM
+1
Although one benefit of supplying the sparky with a kit is that some kits have the wires labeled the length of the wire and you have more choices in fuse boxes.
Painless performance do sell a wire only kit but it cost around the same as a kit with a fuse box.
Although one benefit of supplying the sparky with a kit is that some kits have the wires labeled the length of the wire and you have more choices in fuse boxes.
Painless performance do sell a wire only kit but it cost around the same as a kit with a fuse box.
#4
_cruiza_
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 04:25 PM
+2 on that after market not all that good from my limited experience with them also will not be long enough to hide as too many different ways to hide wire-ring I would get friendly local forum member on to it or take it to a sparkie
#5
Statler
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:45 PM
There is no way my sparkie is going to make up a new loom from scratch. At around $120-150/hr, i doubt i could afford it. I barely managed to get him to fit an aftermarket item.
I am hoping to put the fuses/relays in the glovebox.
What are the Painless kits like?
I am hoping to put the fuses/relays in the glovebox.
What are the Painless kits like?
#6
Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:50 PM
But don't the kits cost like $1200? That's up to 10 hours which should build a nice loom for something basic like a Torana...
I agree with everyone that the kits are made for people who want to avoid wiring, they're a bit of a waste if you can do it yourself or if you're paying someone who can. Cruiza might be on to it with the idea of getting someone else keen to help for some beer or parts swap, everyone wins
I agree with everyone that the kits are made for people who want to avoid wiring, they're a bit of a waste if you can do it yourself or if you're paying someone who can. Cruiza might be on to it with the idea of getting someone else keen to help for some beer or parts swap, everyone wins
#7
Mort
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:03 PM
I too am tossing on building a new loom what i'de like to know is can you get all the plugs/connectors that the original loom uses, if so i will just pull the old one apart bit by bit and copy it that way.
#8
_cruiza_
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:13 PM
I tried to help a forum member out who had a painless kit, some of the kit was good but some just did not work out at all, indicators plus time was against me as I only had two days to do it and he had thrown out all the relays and etc so I did not have much to work with.
If you want a custom job you have to pay the money or learn how to do it your self it is not that hard, that said I can't wield worth a damm and some find that easy
If you want a custom job you have to pay the money or learn how to do it your self it is not that hard, that said I can't wield worth a damm and some find that easy
#9
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:20 PM
The Painless kits are reasonably priced compared to buying a dozen or more spools of different colour and amp rating wire.
Kits start around $400 landed from Summit Racing.
http://www.summitrac.../?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I have been considering using this kit due to the compact fuse box. Some of the fuse boxes are rather large.
http://www.summitrac...10140/?rtype=10
Kits start around $400 landed from Summit Racing.
http://www.summitrac.../?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I have been considering using this kit due to the compact fuse box. Some of the fuse boxes are rather large.
http://www.summitrac...10140/?rtype=10
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 02 April 2012 - 06:24 PM.
#10
_ls1lj_
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:54 PM
I brought the Mini 20 Ez wiring kit
http://www.ezwiring....ng_harness.html
think i brought it from air ride and suspension here in oz for just over 200 bucks, very compact fuse box as it uses mini blade fuses, decent gauge wire as well. wires are all labled like every 100mm which is handy. It did have a note saying that in some large RHD cars that the left and right headlight wiring would need to be swaped as is designed for LHD car. Haven't installed it yet but wouldnt have any trouble with wire lenght. It also includes GM style multi connectors for the lights and switches which looked like they will fit the OEM torana stuff. I would post up a photo of it but out in the middle of the Timor Sea at the moment.
http://www.ezwiring....ng_harness.html
think i brought it from air ride and suspension here in oz for just over 200 bucks, very compact fuse box as it uses mini blade fuses, decent gauge wire as well. wires are all labled like every 100mm which is handy. It did have a note saying that in some large RHD cars that the left and right headlight wiring would need to be swaped as is designed for LHD car. Haven't installed it yet but wouldnt have any trouble with wire lenght. It also includes GM style multi connectors for the lights and switches which looked like they will fit the OEM torana stuff. I would post up a photo of it but out in the middle of the Timor Sea at the moment.
#11
_Liam_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 11:58 AM
I tried to help a forum member out who had a painless kit, some of the kit was good but some just did not work out at all, indicators plus time was against me as I only had two days to do it and he had thrown out all the relays and etc so I did not have much to work with.
If you want a custom job you have to pay the money or learn how to do it your self it is not that hard, that said I can't wield worth a damm and some find that easy
That's very interesting. There was a couple members on here who though the Painless wiring harness was fantastic... So your experience has me interested, I've had a Painless kit for 6-7 years now, waiting to be put in the Torry, and am hoping will be bloody easy.
#12
_sshatch355_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 08:02 PM
I put a trunk mount painless kit in my hatch http://www.summitrac...arts/PRF-10220/ im only a back yarder but competent with wiring and like to do it and it took me a fortnight from start to finish. bear in mind this included the install of battery under the hatch floor, autometer tach,oil,water,fuel,trans temp,digital shift light control,shift light,2x pro warning lights, ice ign inc 2 step,b&m wiring,electric water pump,twin thermo,s,fuel pumps,trans fans,painless switch panel,innovatte lm2 aswell as all the std torana,s items minus the heater.
i found it quite easy and hid everything. the instructions are very detailed the wires are all labed and easy to follow but do require extra length to fully hide in the bay. i was lucky as i wired up a mates 68 firebird using a similar kit and got to keep all his off cuts so was able to extend almost everything using matching wires of the same grade/colour/type.
The only part i got stumped on was the ignition switch but i think it was VIPER (thanks again m8) that helped me out with a pic of the wiring from his install which made it easy to work out. it can a bit daunting but once you roughly lay out where you want it to all go its not to bad. i wouldnt say i saved much if any money by doing it myself but i got to lay it all out the way i wanted which meant a lot to me. i will use another on my current hk prem build
looked like this some nights and was done at night in winter in a single car garage thank god for mini patio heaters lol
i found it quite easy and hid everything. the instructions are very detailed the wires are all labed and easy to follow but do require extra length to fully hide in the bay. i was lucky as i wired up a mates 68 firebird using a similar kit and got to keep all his off cuts so was able to extend almost everything using matching wires of the same grade/colour/type.
The only part i got stumped on was the ignition switch but i think it was VIPER (thanks again m8) that helped me out with a pic of the wiring from his install which made it easy to work out. it can a bit daunting but once you roughly lay out where you want it to all go its not to bad. i wouldnt say i saved much if any money by doing it myself but i got to lay it all out the way i wanted which meant a lot to me. i will use another on my current hk prem build
looked like this some nights and was done at night in winter in a single car garage thank god for mini patio heaters lol
Edited by sshatch355, 03 April 2012 - 08:06 PM.
#13
Statler
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 08:38 PM
I'll have nightmares from looking at that ^.
#14
_cruiza_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:04 PM
That's very interesting. There was a couple members on here who though the Painless wiring harness was fantastic... So your experience has me interested, I've had a Painless kit for 6-7 years now, waiting to be put in the Torry, and am hoping will be bloody easy.
I am electrician and Telecom tech by trade but have wired several cars for myself and others, most of the problems with the painless kit were indicators, the kit was for a US built car which did not have the torana's unique setup, but worse was the owners own efforts made life difficult he threw away all the needed relays headlight flasher and indicator flasher
On my Torana Hatch
When doing my own car I found a cheap easy way to to it was using trailer cable with 7 cores one to the rear of the car does lights and fuel pump
One up each chassis rail for headlights indicators horn electric fan etc
finally 5 core small conductor up the left chassis rail to do oil water gauges
All cables run to centre console where most were connected to relays, I had relays on lights full beam and Dip + change over switch, Horn, Starter solenoid (that fixes so many potential hassles) electric fans x 2 (one for each)
I also put a fuse box in there for all the above, doing it this way means none of the old switches are carrying much current and less likely to give trouble also in console was electronic ignition module
Finally I ran the main positive cable from the starter motor through the floor of the car into the console to power everything and also a kill switch, also a great place to mount a inhibitor switch to make it harder to hot-wire (steal) the car
I used the old wirer-ing from the dash ignition, headlight, heater, wipers etc switches this meant I reused all the special plugs and connectors
I would like to recommend to anyone doing their own wire-ring is do not use basic cramp tool, use the ratchet tool as this does the correct pressure every time and less likely to have faulty troublesome joints that are a curse to track down
Also little known fact but the strength of the crimp in not where the wires are crushed but either side of the crimp, but if I can I solder and use heat-shrink, some times I layer the heat shrink to stop flexing where the insulation is striped from the conductor.
#15
Statler
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:10 PM
So what ur saying Michael, is to drop the car off when? 
#16
_cruiza_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:27 PM
Before I started work on the car almost all of this was binned
Finished engine bay all nicely hidden
Centre console just needs some black sleeving to hide the cables
Finished engine bay all nicely hidden
Centre console just needs some black sleeving to hide the cables
#17
_sshatch355_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:28 PM
I'll have nightmares from looking at that ^.
sorry mate wasnt the intention lol
#18
_cruiza_
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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:44 PM
So what ur saying Michael, is to drop the car off when?
I don't drink so how much money you got and what exactly are you after, lots of custom bits like my car?? even at mates rates it will not be cheap, I like to do it neat and tidy, if you want quick cheap and rough I am not your man.
#19
_moot_
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Posted 04 April 2012 - 07:31 AM
i used a ez-wiring kit in my torana.cost $120 us and it is awesome.i have just ordered another one for my new car
#20
_Viper_
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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:18 AM
I used a painless kit. I only know basic electronics and it was fairly easy to nut out... You basically mount the fuse box and then each wire is labelled and in conjunction with the manual it tells you where each needs to go.
I ran each wire out roughly in the direction of where it needs to go then bundled into groups and ran them nicely and all hidden.
I didnt have any trouble with my indicators? I did use a UC indicator stalk if that changes anything.
Biggest issue was sorting out which wire goes to which terminal on the switches like the ignition, wiper motor, etc (instructions had a good diagram for the headlight switch)
I like it because now I know exactly how my car is wired and where each one is, and even If I forget each wire is labelled every 100mm or so
I ran each wire out roughly in the direction of where it needs to go then bundled into groups and ran them nicely and all hidden.
I didnt have any trouble with my indicators? I did use a UC indicator stalk if that changes anything.
Biggest issue was sorting out which wire goes to which terminal on the switches like the ignition, wiper motor, etc (instructions had a good diagram for the headlight switch)
I like it because now I know exactly how my car is wired and where each one is, and even If I forget each wire is labelled every 100mm or so
#21
_moot_
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Posted 04 April 2012 - 11:07 AM
i used a vl indicator switch,its nice and neat and has the heads on it instead of the wipers
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