
Deoxidine
#1
Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:08 AM
Any hints or tips on the best way to use it on bare metal?
#2
_Liam_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:21 AM
#3
_chrome yella_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:37 PM
#4
Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:08 PM
Cheers Dave
#5
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:16 PM
#6
Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:21 PM
Cheers Dave
#7
Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:45 PM
i heard to not put it in joins or crevises that you cant get to.
Blow dry crevices and joins etc with compressed air.
I remember advising another forum member some time ago to use a mix of one part Deoxidine to one part Water. My bad, it's one part Deoxidine to five parts Water. With a 1:5 mix you shouldn't have the treated metal turning brown.
#8
_Quagmire_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:17 PM
and all the ones i use say use undilted.... sand to bare metal with a wire wheel to remove "flaky" rust
brush on
(i use a coke can cut in half and a old shitty paint brush)
wear gloves and glasses etc
rub off with wax grease remover and or /sandpaper/metho/turps etc etc
but then most brands are different
read dirtbbags threads....he loves the stuff....
#9
_Quagmire_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:22 PM
be very careful daneI used it on my resto and its great stuff but as said above don't get it on your skin aspecially where you have cuts,its very painful.
some acids get into your bones and rot you out from the inside....turning you into a pile of "silmy mush"
like jabba the hutt
or if you inhale the fumes it can rot out your lungs....
but that may be hydrocloric i'm thinking of ......
#10
Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:40 PM
good that i looked into this i have used deoxidine and rust converter nearly on my hole car.. no protection what so ever... now that i know i will definatly invest in some latex gloves.. abit of warning on the bottles would be nice..
#11
_Quagmire_
Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:53 PM
what you using????
the black and gold brand?

#12
Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:31 PM
The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.
Scrub down the panel to remove any loose/rough bits, deox, rust will discolour, wipe off with metho, prime ASAP, preferably with an etch which will bite into the panel, then a surfacing primer or something similar that will provide a moisture barrier..........
Tim/Dirtbag will give the best advice.........
Grant..
#13
_nzstato_
Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:40 PM
The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.
There is no 'phosphorous' in it, your bones are made up of calcium phosphate in the form of hydroxylapatite. If you are concerned here is the MSDS for phosphonic acid (the active ingredient)
http://www.sigmaaldr...53210+219853286
#14
Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:50 PM
Get heavy latex gloves or use nitrile (the blue ones). Don't use poncy thin white latex food prep gloves as they are useless.
The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.
Scrub down the panel to remove any loose/rough bits, deox, rust will discolour, wipe off with metho, prime ASAP, preferably with an etch which will bite into the panel, then a surfacing primer or something similar that will provide a moisture barrier..........
Tim/Dirtbag will give the best advice.........
Grant..
One important step left out you MUST neutralise the phosphoric acid with a rag dampened with water. If not eventually the paints going to bubble and you will also have poor adhesion.
#15
Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:45 PM
Since when does Phosphoric Acid NOT have phosphorous in it? Note the Skin Absorbtion section on the first page.
Phos, Flourine etc will displace the Calcium in your bones...........this can kill you......10-20ml of HF (HydroFlouric Acid) on the skin will not leave enough time to use the cream to neutralize it and it eats through almost everything.......it's used to dissolve quartz from rock samples....you can't buy it off the shelf........luckily Phosphoric isn't so bad, but keep a bucket of water handy.......
Yes, you're right. Usually you'd use a diluted solution.......so when you wipe down with Metho it cleans off the acid and water (and absorbs some of the water).One important step left out you MUST neutralise the phosphoric acid with a rag dampened with water. If not eventually the paints going to bubble and you will also have poor adhesion.
Grant..
#16
_Agent 34_
Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:26 AM
#17
_nzstato_
Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:27 PM
phosphate (PO4 3-) or fluoride (F-) cannot 'displace' calcium (Ca+) in your body since they are ions of opposide charge and will not act in that way. The minerals which make up your bone and teeth contain phosphate and fluoride and that is what gives them the strength.
I now have some letters after my name (and a significant amount of debt) which says I should know this chemical stuff
#18
_Quagmire_
Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:35 PM
it won't turn you into jabba the hutt sorry
still nasty stuff but
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