Jump to content


Photo

Deoxidine


  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,013 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:08 AM

Any one used this stuff before????

Any hints or tips on the best way to use it on bare metal?

#2 _Liam_

_Liam_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:21 AM

I'm told it's to be used before paint, use prepsol to clean the metal and apply deoxidine, it should go brown. If it doesn't, just prepsol again and apply deoxidine again. Don't touch it with you hands! Wear cotton gloves, and don't sweat on it, you can then paint the epoxy primer on.

#3 _chrome yella_

_chrome yella_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:37 PM

i heard to not put it in joins or crevises that you cant get to.

#4 71xu1

71xu1

    Dave

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,275 posts
  • Location:Western Australia
  • Car:LC GTR XU1
  • Joined: 24-August 06

Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:08 PM

Wax and grease deoxodine with steel wool, leave on for three to five minutes, neutralise with a damp wet rag not soaked in water, last step wipe panel down with a rag dampened with metho to dry the water out. PS wear gloves. If all else fails read the instructions on the packaging.
Cheers Dave

#5 _sunburst73-xu1_

_sunburst73-xu1_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:16 PM

I used it on my resto and its great stuff but as said above don't get it on your skin aspecially where you have cuts,its very painful.

#6 71xu1

71xu1

    Dave

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,275 posts
  • Location:Western Australia
  • Car:LC GTR XU1
  • Joined: 24-August 06

Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:21 PM

I should of added wear safety glasses and use in a well ventilated area. After all deoxodine is just another name for phosphoric acid and should be treated as you would any acid. Unless it,s LSD.

Cheers Dave

#7 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,740 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:45 PM

i heard to not put it in joins or crevises that you cant get to.


Blow dry crevices and joins etc with compressed air.

I remember advising another forum member some time ago to use a mix of one part Deoxidine to one part Water. My bad, it's one part Deoxidine to five parts Water. With a 1:5 mix you shouldn't have the treated metal turning brown.

#8 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:17 PM

i thought if it went brown/black/white it worked
and all the ones i use say use undilted.... sand to bare metal with a wire wheel to remove "flaky" rust
brush on
(i use a coke can cut in half and a old shitty paint brush)
wear gloves and glasses etc
rub off with wax grease remover and or /sandpaper/metho/turps etc etc
but then most brands are different
read dirtbbags threads....he loves the stuff....

#9 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:22 PM

I used it on my resto and its great stuff but as said above don't get it on your skin aspecially where you have cuts,its very painful.

be very careful dane
some acids get into your bones and rot you out from the inside....turning you into a pile of "silmy mush"
like jabba the hutt
or if you inhale the fumes it can rot out your lungs....
but that may be hydrocloric i'm thinking of ......

#10 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:40 PM

hey guys,
good that i looked into this i have used deoxidine and rust converter nearly on my hole car.. no protection what so ever... now that i know i will definatly invest in some latex gloves.. abit of warning on the bottles would be nice..

#11 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:53 PM

um....mine have it
what you using????
the black and gold brand? :)

#12 enderwigginau

enderwigginau

    Admin Wrangler

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,000,527 posts
  • Name:Grant
  • Location:Parramatta
  • Car:76 LX Sedan, 4 seater
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:31 PM

Get heavy latex gloves or use nitrile (the blue ones). Don't use poncy thin white latex food prep gloves as they are useless.
The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.

Scrub down the panel to remove any loose/rough bits, deox, rust will discolour, wipe off with metho, prime ASAP, preferably with an etch which will bite into the panel, then a surfacing primer or something similar that will provide a moisture barrier..........

Tim/Dirtbag will give the best advice.........

Grant..

#13 _nzstato_

_nzstato_
  • Guests

Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:40 PM

The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.


There is no 'phosphorous' in it, your bones are made up of calcium phosphate in the form of hydroxylapatite. If you are concerned here is the MSDS for phosphonic acid (the active ingredient)

http://www.sigmaaldr...53210+219853286

#14 71xu1

71xu1

    Dave

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,275 posts
  • Location:Western Australia
  • Car:LC GTR XU1
  • Joined: 24-August 06

Posted 27 April 2012 - 01:50 PM

Get heavy latex gloves or use nitrile (the blue ones). Don't use poncy thin white latex food prep gloves as they are useless.
The Phosphorous from the Deoxidine can get into your bones, not as bad a HydroFlouric Acid, but luckily you can't buy that off the shelf.

Scrub down the panel to remove any loose/rough bits, deox, rust will discolour, wipe off with metho, prime ASAP, preferably with an etch which will bite into the panel, then a surfacing primer or something similar that will provide a moisture barrier..........

Tim/Dirtbag will give the best advice.........

Grant..


One important step left out you MUST neutralise the phosphoric acid with a rag dampened with water. If not eventually the paints going to bubble and you will also have poor adhesion.

#15 enderwigginau

enderwigginau

    Admin Wrangler

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,000,527 posts
  • Name:Grant
  • Location:Parramatta
  • Car:76 LX Sedan, 4 seater
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:45 PM

Here is the MSDS for Deoxidine - http://www.chemical-...oxidine 605.pdf
Since when does Phosphoric Acid NOT have phosphorous in it? Note the Skin Absorbtion section on the first page.

Phos, Flourine etc will displace the Calcium in your bones...........this can kill you......10-20ml of HF (HydroFlouric Acid) on the skin will not leave enough time to use the cream to neutralize it and it eats through almost everything.......it's used to dissolve quartz from rock samples....you can't buy it off the shelf........luckily Phosphoric isn't so bad, but keep a bucket of water handy.......


One important step left out you MUST neutralise the phosphoric acid with a rag dampened with water. If not eventually the paints going to bubble and you will also have poor adhesion.

Yes, you're right. Usually you'd use a diluted solution.......so when you wipe down with Metho it cleans off the acid and water (and absorbs some of the water).

Grant..


#16 _Agent 34_

_Agent 34_
  • Guests

Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:26 AM

three cents- a spray painter i know that gave me some advice used thinners to clean off the deoxidine

#17 _nzstato_

_nzstato_
  • Guests

Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:27 PM

It has trihydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, hydrogen phosphate and phosphate all in solution at varying concentrations (phosphate is PO4-). Saying it contains 'phosphorud' is the same as people saying they put 'fluorine' in the water (a nasty element in its own right) rather than the 'fluoride' they actually add (perfectly fine to injest).

phosphate (PO4 3-) or fluoride (F-) cannot 'displace' calcium (Ca+) in your body since they are ions of opposide charge and will not act in that way. The minerals which make up your bone and teeth contain phosphate and fluoride and that is what gives them the strength.

I now have some letters after my name (and a significant amount of debt) which says I should know this chemical stuff

#18 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:35 PM

so i was wrong....
it won't turn you into jabba the hutt sorry
still nasty stuff but




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users