35 replies to this topic

[ls2lxhatch]

In WA under the NCOP if the battery is relocated then it must be sealed from the cabin. The NCOP specifies a sealed box vented to the outside to contain the battery. The NCOP rule applies regardless of the type of battery used.

If your boot is sealed from the cabin then technically you should not need a sealed box. However a wet battery vents into the boot will cause the boot to rust out and there is a possibility of an explosion.

You can buy relatively cheap wet batteries that have a vent tube so the gasses can be plumbed outside. Otherwise use a AGM style battery which do not vent and will not leak.

Personally I would not use a wet battery in a car I intended to keep.

Moroso Sealed Battery Box
http://www.vpw.com.a...gory/Index/5979

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 28 June 2012 - 12:18 AM.

[ls2lxhatch]

I do not make the NCOP rules I just read them. The NCOP used to specify that the battery must be sealed from the cabin. If the boot is sealed from the cabin then technically the battery is sealed from the cabin.

It looks like in the latest revision of the NCOP is more sensible as it now refers to sealed gel cell batteries.

NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf

With some engine substitutions the battery has to be relocated to the passenger or luggage compartment. Unless a special kind of battery (e.g, a
sealed gel cell) is used in these locations, the battery must be fully enclosed and the enclosure vented to outside the vehicle. Electrically
insulated enclosures such as sealed marine battery boxes should be used. The battery must be securely fastened to the vehicle. Battery cables must be shielded where necessary to prevent damage from road debris and be secured to the body at a maximum spacing of 600mm. Rubber
grommets must be fitted where cables pass through holes in body panels and chassis sections.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 28 June 2012 - 11:25 AM.

[ls2lxhatch]

The NCOP does not apply to manufacturers.

That said I am sure you will find the battery is a sealed unit or has a breather pipe that vents outside the boot.

[LX 0076]

I am planning on moving my battery in my hatch and am wondering what others have done? I am able to get some 120mm2 cable for free from work which is 0000awg. I am planning on running a + and - from front to back plus extra grounding from motor to chasis and battery to chasis. This should be plenty big enough for amp loss but i am wondering how to terminate/connect such large cable neatly. Where did you run your cable to keep it neat / hidden. i may have to custom make terminals /blocks or buzz bar setup as i dont want it to look agricultural. Also did you install inline circuit breakers or isolators? I was thinking of installing a 250amp resetable circuit breaker that i could also use as an isolator. Your ideas and pictures of your setups would be grately appreciated.
Jayson

[LX 0076]

We have industrial electricians at work who do kick arse switch boards, the cable is used in these units. Imagine heavy duty welding cable on steroids, it is orange cicular double insulated, not technically battery cable but almost the same constuction. I stuffed up in my post as 0000 awg is actually 107.16mm2 cable.The cable i can get (for free) has a 120mm2 cross section. Most auto sparkies i have spoken to say that 000awg or 84.97mm2 cable is ample.

Edited by LX 0076, 27 September 2012 - 04:50 PM.

[Marks LXTorana]

Hey everyone (anyone)!

I currently have a boot battery set up and I have recently relocated the live cable through the front firewall as it was close to rubbing through the insulation and shorting out, which made me wonder - in all the posts and threads regarding the battery relocation to the boot, no-one has mentioned the use of a fusable link? I hate to think of what might happen if the live battery cable is directly shorted to the chassis, under the front carpet or in the engine bay!

Being a V8 with extractors there is not a lot of clearance to work with, although there needs to be enough movement in the cable to allow for the engine movement under power/deceleration. Hopefully with a grommet installed I do not need to worry although always best to expect the unexpected.

 

Has anyone considered this or done something that i can replicate?

Cheers.

[Rockoz]

With the 120mm2 cable you can get lugs to fit almost any size bolt. You can get them with blank ends as well so you can drill your own hole.

It would just be a matter of cutting it down to a reasonable size to fit on the starter.

While you are at it get some good heatshrink to cover the bare bits. The sparkies should be able to spare a bit.

Wouldnt worry to much about a seperate earth. Just make sure youve got a good bond to the chassis at the battery and run a decent cable from the chassis to the motor.

The cable is xlpe insulated inner core and has high abrasion resistance and good temperature characteristics,

Its an overkill for sure but obviously the right price.

A breaker to handle the capacity required and properly rated for DC would be a rather expensive proposition.

[LX 0076]

With the 120mm2 cable you can get lugs to fit almost any size bolt. You can get them with blank ends as well so you can drill your own hole.

It would just be a matter of cutting it down to a reasonable size to fit on the starter.

While you are at it get some good heatshrink to cover the bare bits. The sparkies should be able to spare a bit.

Wouldnt worry to much about a seperate earth. Just make sure youve got a good bond to the chassis at the battery and run a decent cable from the chassis to the motor.

The cable is xlpe insulated inner core and has high abrasion resistance and good temperature characteristics,

Its an overkill for sure but obviously the right price.

A breaker to handle the capacity required and properly rated for DC would be a rather expensive proposition.

Thanks Rockoz.

[Rockoz]

Thinking about it again today.

As the cable you will be running is rather stiff, it may be prone to breaking strands.

Perhaps crimp on a short length of more flexible cable at the starter.

Could go down a few sizes in cable size without any drama

[Dr Terry]

Well how's that for a load of shit! How can someone justify that? If a battery is unsealed in any car new or old what makes it any different?
This govt is a fkn joke might just start making my own rules on paper and call it MYCOP

The manufacturers work to a set of ADRs which is much more strict than NCOP.

 

The battery fitted to VE Commodore boots is the sealed type with a plastic vent tube to the exterior. This type is the one to use in modified cars.

 

Dr Terry

[Toranamat69]

I will be completely revising my battery location this build but last time I used these poly cable glands where I wanted the cable to go through a bulkhead without a join in the cable

 

http://www.blackwood...od-11-17mm-gn25

 

You do have to plan and fit them before the cable lug goes on as the lug usually won't fit through.

 

If I am going through a bulkhead and I want a connection point I use these. I have one on the firewall as I can then put an alloy tab to use as a power takeoff under the dash for fuse box feeds etc, rather than more cables under the bonnet.

 

http://www.summitrac...parts/sum-g1431

 

A CB or fusable link for the main cable is a good idea but I don't know many that have used them.  The biggest I have seen is a 250A one but not sure if they are suitable for the inrush on a V8 starter, they would be getting close though.

 

I used caspers fusible links for fuse box feeds etc.

http://www.caspersel...11bc99b7e0fb525

[SmacT]

Perfect timing Toranamat69, I am about to stick the battery in the boot, and didn't know the bulkhead connection points existed. That will work really well for my relays and fusible link under the dash etc. Am I right in saying standard battery cable from the starter to the bulkhead connecter, then welding cable/big-ass battery cable to the boot will do the job? Or do I still need the thick stuff from starter to the bulkhead connector? 

 

Thanks, this will make things better for my set up.

[Toranamat69]

Am I right in saying standard battery cable from the starter to the bulkhead connecter, then welding cable/big-ass battery cable to the boot will do the job?

 

Yep - thats what I did.

 

Some standard battery cables can be a little marginal for big starter motors but you may well be shortening that standard piece anyway which will also reduce the voltage drop.  It certainly doesn't hurt to make it bigger too but if your existing one does the job, then you can stick with it.