So no part number changes around floor/shifter cutout from earlier LC's???
Edited by CraigA, 15 July 2012 - 09:27 PM.
M20 Linkages foul on tunnel
Started by
_judgelj_
, Jul 14 2012 07:24 PM
48 replies to this topic
#26
_CraigA_
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:25 PM
Isnt the hole for Opel shifter different to Aussie shifter? I thought maybe the shape was slightly different for those boxes and would explain why the Aussie linkages foul on the LC floor - notwithstanding that the later LC's had the Aussie gearbox.
So no part number changes around floor/shifter cutout from earlier LC's???
So no part number changes around floor/shifter cutout from earlier LC's???
#27
debkar
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:34 PM
LC/LJ floor pans are identical.
Thanks Dave,
#28
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:37 PM
Isnt the hole for Opel shifter different to Aussie shifter? I thought maybe the shape was slightly different for those boxes and would explain why the Aussie linkages foul on the LC floor - notwithstanding that the later LC's had the Aussie gearbox.
So no part number changes around floor/shifter cutout from earlier LC's???
I'm not too sure, my car is late 71, so 173 and I would assume aussie 4 speed,
#29
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:42 PM
Ok so should fit without fouling. When I asked some questions about this previously Bazza (as always) was very helpful and posted pictures of the correct crossmember and mounting parts. Opel, auto, and Aussie were all different.
#30
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:32 AM
Ok just to answer the questions.
Simon: I have made up 10mm spacers and whilst they do drop everything, they link just rubs, in fact i can make it clear if i hold pressure on it but a slight bit of torque will make it fould again. I might heat up and bend it just slightly. I could reverse the pattern, and i even thought about inverting the link but that would make it foul on the gearbox bolts. I do have a spacer that i can remember which is under the crossmember between the g/b mount bolts. Is this the one you are referring to or is it between the actual mount and the x member? Does that make sense? Ill try and get some photos. I dont think it had a manual previously and thank you for the encouragement, it has indeed been a massive pain. definitely not as straight forward as i thought and i have overstayed my welcome on the hoist.
As for the rat trap, its the relay rod brace that i cannot mount. I have a bracket that goes on the gearbox and provides attachment for the clutch fork return spring. There is a mounting tab that is a part of this bracket but it sits horizontal and the relay brace runs vertical to it. If there is not other way and i am not missing anything obvious i will just make a mount myself.
Simon: I have made up 10mm spacers and whilst they do drop everything, they link just rubs, in fact i can make it clear if i hold pressure on it but a slight bit of torque will make it fould again. I might heat up and bend it just slightly. I could reverse the pattern, and i even thought about inverting the link but that would make it foul on the gearbox bolts. I do have a spacer that i can remember which is under the crossmember between the g/b mount bolts. Is this the one you are referring to or is it between the actual mount and the x member? Does that make sense? Ill try and get some photos. I dont think it had a manual previously and thank you for the encouragement, it has indeed been a massive pain. definitely not as straight forward as i thought and i have overstayed my welcome on the hoist.
As for the rat trap, its the relay rod brace that i cannot mount. I have a bracket that goes on the gearbox and provides attachment for the clutch fork return spring. There is a mounting tab that is a part of this bracket but it sits horizontal and the relay brace runs vertical to it. If there is not other way and i am not missing anything obvious i will just make a mount myself.
#31
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:53 AM
It looks like there is not spacer and judging by the diagram i have the mounts for trimatic and aussie 4 speed are different. I am running the trimatic mount, could this be the reason? it looks like the 4 speed mount has a rubber that does not protrude out from the surrounding bracket and uses a spacer to take up the extra space between the x member and the rubber so it doesnt sit on the metal...?
#32
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 12:36 PM
Hi Jacob,
Some have a gear box mount arrestor, like this
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5b6771c9
As far as I was aware trimatic , depress 4 speed, were the same,
Regards Simon
Some have a gear box mount arrestor, like this
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5b6771c9
As far as I was aware trimatic , depress 4 speed, were the same,
Regards Simon
#33
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 01:20 PM
Hi Jacob,
Some have a gear box mount arrestor, like this
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5b6771c9
As far as I was aware trimatic , depress 4 speed, were the same,
Regards Simon
Hi
Yes - the Mount Assembly (7432236) and Arrestor (7432222) are the same in both cases.
Cheers
Bazza
#34
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 01:47 PM
Thanks Bazza,
#35
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:27 PM
well there goes that theory. pics as promised though its not too bad now
#36
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:14 PM
Hi Jacob,
Do you still have the rubber insulators on the ends of the crossmember?
Is the box central to the tunnel? I see rat trap is not lined up due to missing bracket
Maybe you need to replace front selector with the LC type to get clearance?
I must say, my box, I can easily see 15 mm clearance from the tunnel to the selectors
Simon
Do you still have the rubber insulators on the ends of the crossmember?
Is the box central to the tunnel? I see rat trap is not lined up due to missing bracket
Maybe you need to replace front selector with the LC type to get clearance?
I must say, my box, I can easily see 15 mm clearance from the tunnel to the selectors
Simon
Edited by debkar, 16 July 2012 - 09:16 PM.
#37
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:18 PM
Can we get a picture of the mount and the cross member please?
#38
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:49 PM
Hi
It's just a thought, but if the engine hasn't been mounted properly in respect of the correct orientation of the engine mounts, the engine will go in crooked and throw the whole thing over to one side.
Cheers
Bazza
It's just a thought, but if the engine hasn't been mounted properly in respect of the correct orientation of the engine mounts, the engine will go in crooked and throw the whole thing over to one side.
Cheers
Bazza
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#39
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:10 PM
Hi Jacob
The pics help a bit.
1st of all the brace bracket on the bell housing is totally wrong. Not LC/LJ or HT/HG, might be LH/LX but I don't know. In any case it is never going to work without extensive modification.
2nd, the clutch fork return spring on the LC/LJ attaches into a small hole in the drivers side suspension brace not onto the bell housing mounted bracket.
3rd, the Trimatic and Aussie 4spd use the same gearbox crossmemeber, simply discard the rubber insulators and metal retainers that bolt up to the chassis rails and use the bolt holes in the crossmember to attach it to the rails.
Can you put up some pics of your engine mounts on both sides? Bazza might be onto something.
The pics help a bit.
1st of all the brace bracket on the bell housing is totally wrong. Not LC/LJ or HT/HG, might be LH/LX but I don't know. In any case it is never going to work without extensive modification.
2nd, the clutch fork return spring on the LC/LJ attaches into a small hole in the drivers side suspension brace not onto the bell housing mounted bracket.
3rd, the Trimatic and Aussie 4spd use the same gearbox crossmemeber, simply discard the rubber insulators and metal retainers that bolt up to the chassis rails and use the bolt holes in the crossmember to attach it to the rails.
Can you put up some pics of your engine mounts on both sides? Bazza might be onto something.
#40
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:11 AM
will take the pics definately. i am still running the rubber insulators between the spacers as i wanted to get as much clearance as i could.
as for the return spring, that is how it was on the gearbox when i first got it, i just assumed that's how it would be. i think it may be LH/LX style as it appears that way in the lh/x workshop manual. in absence of the correct bell housing bracket i was just going to adapt the lh/lx one to include and extended tab to mount the rat trap relay support bracket. could someone provide a picture of the correct clutch return spring mounting point.
Thanks
as for the return spring, that is how it was on the gearbox when i first got it, i just assumed that's how it would be. i think it may be LH/LX style as it appears that way in the lh/x workshop manual. in absence of the correct bell housing bracket i was just going to adapt the lh/lx one to include and extended tab to mount the rat trap relay support bracket. could someone provide a picture of the correct clutch return spring mounting point.
Thanks
#43
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 06:10 PM
Engine mounts look ok, doesn't look like they've been modified and you've got the gearbox crossmember installed correctly.
.
.
#44
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 07:36 PM
Hi Jacob
Yep, as Dave says, engine mounts are fitted correctly, so is trans mount, I think the only way to get more clearance is either more spacers or change the plastic part on the front selector to the steel ones as in the LC diagram that was posted. Then shifter rod connects lower,
Sorry, can't be more help,
Regards Simon
Yep, as Dave says, engine mounts are fitted correctly, so is trans mount, I think the only way to get more clearance is either more spacers or change the plastic part on the front selector to the steel ones as in the LC diagram that was posted. Then shifter rod connects lower,
Sorry, can't be more help,
Regards Simon
#45
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:54 PM
you guys have practically worked it out for me so thank you. i know now that i have LH/X rods and altough they fit on some models, are not right for my car. what i need to do is acquire LC/J linkages as they are oriented different. but for now it shifts gears, will have to see what i can do.
#46
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:04 PM
Sounds good mate, all you would need is 4 nuts and the fitting the same as you have in the picture on the rear selector, might take some aligning, but the rod would sit lower and hopefully clear the tunnel
#47
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:18 PM
Sounds good mate, all you would need is 4 nuts and the fitting the same as you have in the picture on the rear selector, might take some aligning, but the rod would sit lower and hopefully clear the tunnel
^^^ I think Simon has hit the nail on the head. Those trunnions were also used to connect the reverse gear linkage to the selector lever on some models. Might be worth trying a few gearbox shops, they might have some laying around.
You may need to heat and tweak the bends in the 3/4 shifter rod to suit with the trunnion, but should solve your clearance problem.
#48
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:20 PM
Thanks Dave, racking the old brain on this,
I think you should use one of these for the front selector, then pass the rod through it and use 2 nuts either side to lock in place as there is not thread inside.
This one is from reverse selector, but can be used and would drop the rod down about 25mm.
May have to re align the rods as Dave has said
I think you should use one of these for the front selector, then pass the rod through it and use 2 nuts either side to lock in place as there is not thread inside.
This one is from reverse selector, but can be used and would drop the rod down about 25mm.
May have to re align the rods as Dave has said
Edited by debkar, 17 July 2012 - 09:21 PM.
#49
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:18 PM
thats also a good idea, i might have a look around for one at the workshop.
thanks again.
thanks again.
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