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Whats needed for a 7000rpm 304/8?


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#1 _Viper_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:38 AM

Hey guys, a friend of mine loves revs and asked me what would be needed for a 304/308 to be able to handle high revs, 7000-8000?

My answer was... Not entirely sure, so here I am.

Mainly talking bottom end strength here, not heads/cam/manifold

What can a good condition stock bottom end handle day in and day out?

Whats needed for 7000-8000? ARP rod bolts would be a given, can the stock rods handle it or would aftermarket forgies be required?

How many revs can the 2-bolt mains handle before requiring upgrade to 4? or maybe a stud girdle

I know a lighter piston and flywheel would help get it there.

#2 _cruiza_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 07:50 AM

I large box to put the broken bits in

I had stock crank and two bolt mains with Cariol Rods, ARP studs and nuts instead of bolts and it would happily spin to 7500

that said spent a fortune on polishing the valley radiusing the oil galleries blue printing and balancing and rebuilds / freshen ups every 50,000km

Speed costs how fast do you want to go

#3 _Quagmire_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 10:34 AM

tell him to buy a chev :stirpot:
"you want it to rev buy a chev"
that said why does he want 8000 rpm anyway?
without head/cam/manifold work it won't produce power at those revs anyway
another alternative is to chase up a old v8 supercar race engine they rev to 7000 all day....

#4 S pack

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 12:52 PM

tell him to buy a chev :stirpot:
"you want it to rev buy a chev"
that said why does he want 8000 rpm anyway?
without head/cam/manifold work it won't produce power at those revs anyway
another alternative is to chase up a old v8 supercar race engine they rev to 7000 all day....


^^^ Nah, get an old Ford Escort 2L ohc, they rev to 7000 rpm in factory trim no probs. Mightn't have the grunt of a V8 but it will rev. :stirpot:

#5 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:19 PM

I'd say a video camera.

Edited by sunburst73-xu1, 21 July 2012 - 01:19 PM.


#6 Struggler

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:31 PM

I'm pretty sure the RVK355 burnout VK Commodore from SA used a stock 304 short for a while.

He fitted his ported VN heads with a 288 Crane and a Harrop intake.

Was limited to 8K or similar and lasted a while.

I'll see what I can find.......

#7 Struggler

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:41 PM

Here you go..... http://www.aussiev8....04-max-rpm.html

The real limiting factor is the valve springs. The fun stops when a piston and valve meet at 8K.

#8 _Viper_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:27 PM

He just loves the sound of massive revs in a v8 I guess...

Would be a burnout car with single plane hi-rise, big VN Heads, cam and valve train to match.

Just yea was wondering what usually fails first at that rpm

#9 Struggler

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:34 PM

Properly prepared I would be confident the stock rods and crank will go the distance.

He will need to fit flat top pistons to get some comp up anyway.

#10 _My74LH_

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:35 PM

Billet and solid everything , lots of $ before and lots of $ for after , I Just built one similer not much happening after 6900rpm, so pulled the pin no point .

#11 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:05 PM

A standard 308 will happily rev to 7000 with a bit of a cam and some decent valve springs. Insurance in the fastener and oiling system departments is a good idea, but then again if its going to see lots of abuse and blow up anyway you may as well keep it cheap. 8000 is another matter entirely...

#12 ozyozyozy

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 12:00 AM

I agree with 76lxhatch.
7000rpm no prob, vn rods, factory crank.
8000rpm, whole other prob, requires ALOT more effort, especially to make it reliable.
Old group A engines used to rev to 8500rpm in race trim and 9500 in qualifing. They had problems with the blocks cracking, rear main cap fally out.

#13 Punchy

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 02:22 AM

Why stop at 8000 rpm if he's doing it for the sound of it..

9000 soulds like its made from alienware and makes your face go 0_o <- boggle !

There was a orange hj sedan a few years back that used to goto the drag here in queensland to Willowbank.
It was a nitrous jobby thing too.

He used to sit on the start line and wind that thing up, and drop the clutch for launch, Just like them guys used to in the early days of rotarys on the start line.

Seriously everytime he did a burnout it took a month of sundays for it to come back into the "normal" sound realms that people associate with hot 308's.
i have no idea how long those engines lasted for ...But Either way im sure your mates spare parts and scrap metal bin will see some good use shortly if he wishes to persue this line of thought.

#14 _Mint_

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 04:06 PM

Mondo alias..RVK355 burnout Vk Commo has trashed a few blocks over years im told..the current one is hanging in there mainly due to now dry sumped

and priority oil mains..(holden v8s like to pump oil to the top of the motor)he revs it to 8200 rpm..not sure if he has 2 or 4 bolt mains caps..but with burnout cars heat is thy enemy

so the motor better be very well put together

#15 _LXSS350_

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:29 PM

Big dollars and a whole lot of engine build labour. The key here is sustained 7000rpm+ vs an occasional 7000rpm+. A circuit or burnout car is far different from an occasional 7000rpm car. The other issue is where your engine builder designs the power. At 7000rpm+ the cam options and your breathing systems velocity/capacity means little low down torque. We have a 308 stroker with big mechanical roller, heavy ported aluminium heads,12.1 and all the fruit. Power comes on around 4800 and peaks at about 7800rpm. When we finally get it on the dyno we expect between 620hp-650hp, but its a real screamer and has no torque. It was originally built for racing on methanol and de-tuned a little for a street torrie. The key is we can get a factory supported chev for far less money, more hp and a whole lot more torque (heaps better reliability). Of course the race engine we have was sitting in the shed corner gathering dust while a spare torrie chassis was available. If it ever has an issue the engine bay will like the the other torries get a more powerful and far more reliable chev engine as the replacement.So the question is what the aim is with a plastic when far better more reliable, less expensive, lighter and more powerful 7000rpm options exist?

Edited by LXSS350, 23 July 2012 - 09:32 PM.


#16 Shtstr

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 05:59 PM

As staded before the 304/308's have a few down falls when asked to proform. The thing to remember is your engine is an air pump and thats what you need to look at is cam valve springs rockers porting carb/efi flow con rods main studs head studs main's to 4 bolt with gurdle. Ballace everything. You can restrict the oil to the top end by blocking push rods and useing spray bar on rockers and springs.
Next thing you have to look at is driveline and gear ratios.
No point haveing an engine that can spin to 7000+ if you have 2.6-3.08 diff gears.
Last one i built had 4 bolt mains longer h beam rods 6.0" forge pistons to suit roller rockers & lifters rev lit from chev modified to suit extesive head work and larger springs and 10deg valve spring locks.
By changeing the rod length yo increase torque. and reduce wear and stress on te rotating mass.

#17 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 11:05 PM

As staded before the 304/308's have a few down falls when asked to proform. The thing to remember is your engine is an air pump and thats what you need to look at is cam valve springs rockers porting carb/efi flow con rods main studs head studs main's to 4 bolt with gurdle. Ballace everything. You can restrict the oil to the top end by blocking push rods and useing spray bar on rockers and springs.
Next thing you have to look at is driveline and gear ratios.
No point haveing an engine that can spin to 7000+ if you have 2.6-3.08 diff gears.
Last one i built had 4 bolt mains longer h beam rods 6.0" forge pistons to suit roller rockers & lifters rev lit from chev modified to suit extesive head work and larger springs and 10deg valve spring locks.
By changeing the rod length yo increase torque. and reduce wear and stress on te rotating mass.

isn't this what they do to 330/355 strokers?
using either sbc or 265 hemi rods and 327 pistons...

#18 Shtstr

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 01:05 PM

sort of but they only use the short rod and it's not the best option only the cheaper of the 2

#19 myss427

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 05:34 PM

You want to run the longest possible rod and short piston, more dwell time at top dead centre and less piston to rod angularity. But you need to spend up big! As said, you go 7000 pretty easy but 8 or 9000 is another ball game. Look at NASCAR engines that still go bang every now and then, they cost $70 - 100K. Yes you can build one cheaper that might hit it for a milli second but you'll be on borrowed time and you will not do it under $20k

#20 _ooLo31_

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 07:45 PM

chev 6 inch rods 351 windsor pistons and dry sump it. a mate of mine had one reved to 8+
in a drag boat .




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