
Whats needed for a 7000rpm 304/8?
#1
_Viper_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:38 AM
My answer was... Not entirely sure, so here I am.
Mainly talking bottom end strength here, not heads/cam/manifold
What can a good condition stock bottom end handle day in and day out?
Whats needed for 7000-8000? ARP rod bolts would be a given, can the stock rods handle it or would aftermarket forgies be required?
How many revs can the 2-bolt mains handle before requiring upgrade to 4? or maybe a stud girdle
I know a lighter piston and flywheel would help get it there.
#2
_cruiza_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 07:50 AM
I had stock crank and two bolt mains with Cariol Rods, ARP studs and nuts instead of bolts and it would happily spin to 7500
that said spent a fortune on polishing the valley radiusing the oil galleries blue printing and balancing and rebuilds / freshen ups every 50,000km
Speed costs how fast do you want to go
#3
_Quagmire_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 10:34 AM

"you want it to rev buy a chev"
that said why does he want 8000 rpm anyway?
without head/cam/manifold work it won't produce power at those revs anyway
another alternative is to chase up a old v8 supercar race engine they rev to 7000 all day....
#4
Posted 21 July 2012 - 12:52 PM
tell him to buy a chev
"you want it to rev buy a chev"
that said why does he want 8000 rpm anyway?
without head/cam/manifold work it won't produce power at those revs anyway
another alternative is to chase up a old v8 supercar race engine they rev to 7000 all day....
^^^ Nah, get an old Ford Escort 2L ohc, they rev to 7000 rpm in factory trim no probs. Mightn't have the grunt of a V8 but it will rev.

#5
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:19 PM
Edited by sunburst73-xu1, 21 July 2012 - 01:19 PM.
#6
Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:31 PM
He fitted his ported VN heads with a 288 Crane and a Harrop intake.
Was limited to 8K or similar and lasted a while.
I'll see what I can find.......
#7
Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:41 PM
The real limiting factor is the valve springs. The fun stops when a piston and valve meet at 8K.
#8
_Viper_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:27 PM
Would be a burnout car with single plane hi-rise, big VN Heads, cam and valve train to match.
Just yea was wondering what usually fails first at that rpm
#9
Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:34 PM
He will need to fit flat top pistons to get some comp up anyway.
#10
_My74LH_
Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:35 PM
#11
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:05 PM
#12
Posted 22 July 2012 - 12:00 AM
7000rpm no prob, vn rods, factory crank.
8000rpm, whole other prob, requires ALOT more effort, especially to make it reliable.
Old group A engines used to rev to 8500rpm in race trim and 9500 in qualifing. They had problems with the blocks cracking, rear main cap fally out.
#13
Posted 23 July 2012 - 02:22 AM
9000 soulds like its made from alienware and makes your face go 0_o <- boggle !
There was a orange hj sedan a few years back that used to goto the drag here in queensland to Willowbank.
It was a nitrous jobby thing too.
He used to sit on the start line and wind that thing up, and drop the clutch for launch, Just like them guys used to in the early days of rotarys on the start line.
Seriously everytime he did a burnout it took a month of sundays for it to come back into the "normal" sound realms that people associate with hot 308's.
i have no idea how long those engines lasted for ...But Either way im sure your mates spare parts and scrap metal bin will see some good use shortly if he wishes to persue this line of thought.
#14
_Mint_
Posted 23 July 2012 - 04:06 PM
and priority oil mains..(holden v8s like to pump oil to the top of the motor)he revs it to 8200 rpm..not sure if he has 2 or 4 bolt mains caps..but with burnout cars heat is thy enemy
so the motor better be very well put together
#15
_LXSS350_
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:29 PM
Edited by LXSS350, 23 July 2012 - 09:32 PM.
#16
Posted 24 July 2012 - 05:59 PM
Next thing you have to look at is driveline and gear ratios.
No point haveing an engine that can spin to 7000+ if you have 2.6-3.08 diff gears.
Last one i built had 4 bolt mains longer h beam rods 6.0" forge pistons to suit roller rockers & lifters rev lit from chev modified to suit extesive head work and larger springs and 10deg valve spring locks.
By changeing the rod length yo increase torque. and reduce wear and stress on te rotating mass.
#17
_Quagmire_
Posted 24 July 2012 - 11:05 PM
isn't this what they do to 330/355 strokers?As staded before the 304/308's have a few down falls when asked to proform. The thing to remember is your engine is an air pump and thats what you need to look at is cam valve springs rockers porting carb/efi flow con rods main studs head studs main's to 4 bolt with gurdle. Ballace everything. You can restrict the oil to the top end by blocking push rods and useing spray bar on rockers and springs.
Next thing you have to look at is driveline and gear ratios.
No point haveing an engine that can spin to 7000+ if you have 2.6-3.08 diff gears.
Last one i built had 4 bolt mains longer h beam rods 6.0" forge pistons to suit roller rockers & lifters rev lit from chev modified to suit extesive head work and larger springs and 10deg valve spring locks.
By changeing the rod length yo increase torque. and reduce wear and stress on te rotating mass.
using either sbc or 265 hemi rods and 327 pistons...
#18
Posted 25 July 2012 - 01:05 PM
#19
Posted 25 July 2012 - 05:34 PM
#20
_ooLo31_
Posted 02 August 2012 - 07:45 PM
in a drag boat .
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