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#1 hanra

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 10:50 PM

Well the time is coming near that Ill be filling the donk up with oil, the gearbox up with oil once the tailshaft gets painted/fitted and the radiator with coolant. Ive just fitted the brake calipers so the brake system will need some fluid also. The diff already has its LSD oil in it.

What is a suggested brand/weight oil for stock 308? Synthetic, Semi-Syntheitc, Mineral?

What is a suggested brand/weight oil for M21 Gearbox

What is a suggested brand/type coolant to use in stock 2 core rad with engine fan?

What is a suggested brand/type brake fluid to use with big nut M/C?

Edited by hanra, 05 September 2012 - 10:54 PM.


#2 dattoman

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 12:00 AM

Good quality mineral oils only
I'm going to just give recommendation of what I use and will use in mine

1. Engine Castrol GTX 20-50
2. Box Castrol EPX80W-90
3. Genuine Holden V6 coolant
4. Brake fluids are alot the same... use a name brand...I usually use Lucas or PBR... depends if you want blue or clear DOT4 though

#3 hanra

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 07:47 AM

Thanks for that input Datto. Thats a good start.

Cheers.

#4 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 02:41 PM

There wouldn't be too much difference with the engine coolants would there? Isn't it all basically 100% glycerol?

#5 hanra

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 02:55 PM

I was always told to use the GM stuff when I had my V6 Buick.

#6 a9x868

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 08:51 PM

Good quality mineral oils only
I'm going to just give recommendation of what I use and will use in mine

1. Engine Castrol GTX 20-50
2. Box Castrol EPX80W-90
3. Genuine Holden V6 coolant
4. Brake fluids are alot the same... use a name brand...I usually use Lucas or PBR... depends if you want blue or clear DOT4 though

gtx20/50
regular garden variety crap
i would use edge sport 25/50 while being a non synthetic is still one of castrols premium grade oils
was told long ago not use a synthetic with roller rockers so i use this in mine!
epx 80w90pretty much standard run of the mill gear oil
vmx 80 again from castrol is supposed to lessen the cold start balk
for changes from 1st gear to 2nd gear shifts when gearbox is still cold!
can't go past gmh coolant
final drive
original lsd was lsx90
but later stuff as in commy n falcoon are SAFX-A more expensive synthetic
brake fluid! your da man
cheers
davemc
but i work for castrol
i've heard great things about redline and royal purple!

#7 dattoman

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 09:08 PM

He's going to drive it 3 times a year... to the end of his driveway

Spring for Penrite if you want to get fancier
25-50 I would say woold be alittle thick unless its always hot up there
15-50 if its cooler

#8 _UCLX_

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 09:08 PM

Avoid using holden Part Number 92145527 extended Life anti-freeze Coolant.
It ate my thermo housing paper gasket ~ made it go all soft and sort of partially dissolved. (ACLRace Series Gasket Set) Valley cover and water pump gaskets seem to be ok.
Tried new gasket, ate it too. removed valley cover & milled thermo face and counter bore, faced thermo housing, installed with another new gasket.
Ate this one as well. Currently running black RTV without any gasket, no more leaks.
Regards,
Daryl.

#9 a9x868

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 10:24 PM

He's going to drive it 3 times a year... to the end of his driveway

Spring for Penrite if you want to get fancier
25-50 I would say woold be alittle thick unless its always hot up there
15-50 if its cooler

only if it makes it out of the bubble neil
cairns is always hot compared to here!
25/50 is a replacement for bp corse plus
after bp bought castrol some ten odd years ago
bp products eventually consumed by castrol brand
as castrol at the time i believe had a 25% market share in australia
they have since set about ruining that and are only interested in the mining at the moment!
as castrol insists on changing it's branding name of it's core products regularly
it's really difficult to keep track of what product replaces what
but edge sport 25w50 replaces whatever larry perkins used in his racecars supposedly
i deliver the stuff and even i can't keep up with it
as with all oils some people swear by castrol
others hate it
some swear by shell which comes in from malaysia
caltex largely comes from the same plant in perth as castrol and bp
almc blends oil for all 3
some customers swear by bp and hate castrol
some customers swear by castrol and hate bp
there are no winners when dealing with an oil company
unless your a shareholder !!!!!!

#10 _Quagmire_

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 10:49 PM

just use whatever 20/50 is on sale ")
i prefer valvoline engine armor but....cheap and works :)
penrite is good but more $$$$
not that oil really matters it's when you change it and the quality of your filters

#11 hanra

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 08:40 AM

Geeez I remember Bp Coarse Plus! I used to always use that in the Mini.

This is what I've ended up with. Not 100% if the coolant is ok?

Posted Image

#12 _robslxhatch_

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 08:55 AM

that coolant should be fine but make sure you have enough . 2 bottles might be better .

There wouldn't be too much difference with the engine coolants would there? Isn't it all basically 100% glycerol?

I have seen and used several cheap aftermarket coolants that stain very badly when they leak (so badly that a wire brush or cutting compond is the only thing to get it off) and thier anti corrosion properties leaves a bit to be desired. I am a huge fan of genuine coolant . I use Holden long life coolant in my Torana and I try to use genuine coolant in customers cars where possible. I have had Toyotas come in with 200 000kms on the clock and still running genuine coolant and the cooling system is like new .

Edited by robslxhatch, 07 September 2012 - 08:59 AM.


#13 dattoman

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 09:08 AM

Looks fine to me
Blue brake fluid... you'll need more than that
And not that excited about the coolant... but meh

#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 09:20 AM

short on everything but the oil datto....

#15 hanra

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 09:21 AM

Yeah I got another 1L bottle of brake fluid. I just thought I got PBR brakes why not use PBR fluid!

I think the better coolant is castrol antifreeze 350. But they were nil stock.

Also have another 1L bottle of gearbox oil.

Edited by hanra, 07 September 2012 - 09:22 AM.


#16 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 11:08 AM

I prefer to use premixed coolant as the quality of tap water is variable. If you use concentrate then I would use distilled water and make up a couple of litres for top ups.

#17 a9x868

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 09:18 PM

Yeah I got another 1L bottle of brake fluid. I just thought I got PBR brakes why not use PBR fluid!

I think the better coolant is castrol antifreeze 350. But they were nil stock.

Also have another 1L bottle of gearbox oil.

antifreeze 350 is pretty much the only coolant supplied by castrol
that can be used on v6 commodores as everything else eventually causes problems
i dought you will need the antifreeze side of the equasion where you are
but changeing all fluids regularly should avoid any drama's
also repco sell a good bottle with a pump and nozzle for getting the gearbox oil in
cheers
dave mc

#18 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 08 September 2012 - 08:23 AM

If there's one area I don't penny pinch and that's the fluids for my cars. Only the best for my babies and it makes sense I think. We spend squillions restoring them in every area so it would be a little strange to save 20 bucks getting the cheaper oil. IMO anyway :)

#19 _torbirdie_

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 07:56 PM

Geeez I remember Bp Coarse Plus! I used to always use that in the Mini.

This is what I've ended up with. Not 100% if the coolant is ok?

Posted Image


T
Unless the motor is badly worn or you are going racing, a 60 grade oil is going to increase fuel consumption and increase running temps

#20 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:01 PM

Only when its cold??

#21 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:13 PM

20W is the cold/winter viscosity.
50/60 is the hot viscosity.

Penrite 20W-60 is recommended for use where SAE 20W-50 is specifided. That is what the "Extra Ten" means.

If you look closely at the bottle you will see it has SAE 20W-50 in yellow writing yet Penrite also state SAE20W-60 in the specification sheet.

Penrite HPR 30

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 10 September 2012 - 08:22 PM.


#22 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:17 PM

Really, i thought a bigger number was thicker?

#23 _torbirdie_

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:31 PM

20W is the cold/winter viscosity.
50/60 is the hot viscosity.

Penrite 20W-60 is recommended for use where SAE 20W-50 is specifided. That is what the "Extra Ten" means.

If you look closely at the bottle you will see it has SAE 20W-50 in yellow writing yet Penrite also state SAE20W-60 in the specification sheet.

Penrite HPR 30


It can't be both a 50 and a 60 grade oil. penrite has a history of mistating the specs of its products, typically the oil exceeds the visocity claimed on the label

#24 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:31 PM

20W-50 is saying that the oil has the same viscosity a a light 20 oil when measured at the cold temperature.

At the hot temperature the oil has the same viscoisty as a heavy 50 weight oil.

#25 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:39 PM

It can't be both a 50 and a 60 grade oil. Penrite has a history of mistating the specs of its products, typically the oil exceeds the viscosity claimed on the label


You missed the bit about the "Extra Ten" marketing. Penrite claim with their oils you can go up 10 in the hot viscosity. Penrite recommend using their 20W-60 in engines designed for 20W-50.

SAE 20W-60
Premium mineral oil formulated for use in conventional and turbocharged engines operating under a high load environment. It provides better oil pressure and consumption control and is recommended where SAE 20W-50 oils were originally required. Not recommended for four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.






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