
Muncie bell housing
#1
_zooma355_
Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:48 PM
Quick question bout a Muncie m22 I'm lookin at with a chev bellhousing. Will it mate up with my chev pattern 308 block and if so are there any dramas with this set up? Standard shifter ok or after market needed?Also it's completely rebuilt with bearings, synchros and other goodies what's a fair price for a rebuilt second handy?
#2
_zooma355_
Posted 09 September 2012 - 01:38 PM
#3
Posted 09 September 2012 - 02:40 PM
Standard Muncie shifters are not flash at all, a Hurst or similar is the go and most have an aftermarket shifter already anyway. Won't fit in the tunnel in standard form, need to modify the tunnel and/or shifter to gain clearance, the box itself fits fine.
Over here price is likely to be $1K (cheap) to $2500+ (expensive), but I imagine a bit less for you guys.
#4
_zooma355_
Posted 09 September 2012 - 07:19 PM
Are there many differant types of muncies or are the m22's all classed as "rock crusher"?
And while I'm at it haha what flywheel and clutch set ups would u advise?
#5
Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:23 PM
Aftermarket suppliers make all the parts including gear sets new now, you can even get the wider ratio gears with the shallow angle teeth, plus additional ratios besides.
Generally M22s have the larger 26 spline input shaft and 32(? same as TH400) spline output, the others could have these or the normal 10 spline input and 27 spline output same as a Holden box. The 308 flywheel with a 10.5" clutch (which is about all you can get now anyway) will bolt straight up, just get the right spline clutch plate to suit your box.
Plenty of info on the web because they're so common in the US, Camaros, Chevelles, Corvettes etc.
#6
_zooma355_
Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:29 PM
#7
_Skapinad_
Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:33 PM
#8
Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:34 PM
#9
Posted 10 September 2012 - 07:01 AM
#10
_zooma355_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 04:44 PM
Back to the drawing board!
Any suggestions on where i can find a reasonable m22 without spending a fortune?
#11
Posted 10 September 2012 - 05:41 PM
#12
_zooma355_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 07:11 PM
#13
Posted 10 September 2012 - 07:56 PM
#14
_zooma355_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:07 PM
#15
Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:55 PM
All factory original Muncies pretty much have 1.0 final ratio. If you're concerned about highway cruising I would save up for a M22 with overdrive 4th (~0.86 instead of the usual 1.0) or an M21Y.
If you're concerned about the gear strength with an M20 you could always consider switching out the M20 internals for M22 internals, from the States these kits are advertised as less than $750USD. I would think that the case would be fine for your application but not sure.
Edited by Lima31, 10 September 2012 - 08:56 PM.
#16
Posted 10 September 2012 - 09:27 PM
#17
_Spark Eater_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 10:17 PM
or the monaro one (more expensive second hand being original monaro stuff though), they have the fork on the correct side, and the dellow or crs ones can be setup for cable or hydraulic.
dellow/crs make the bracket for the slave have different bolt patterns so you can't interchange pieces, I'd probably go CRS if I had to buy one new, they always have a crapload of info and are happy to talk about anything.
I got my supercase new muncie m22 (most severe duty case and internals you can possibly get) built with custom ratios for $1995USD from fourgeartrans.com
the guy is AWESOME. but you have to organise your own shipping.
it's great to know that hurst shifter works, I'll be buying one of those, hopefully I can find one second hand. dunno what to do yet about the gearstick beign on the wrong side though...
Edited by Spark Eater, 10 September 2012 - 10:25 PM.
#18
Posted 10 September 2012 - 11:36 PM
I got my supercase new muncie m22 (most severe duty case and internals you can possibly get) built with custom ratios for $1995USD from fourgeartrans.com
the guy is AWESOME. but you have to organise your own shipping.
What ratios did you go and what diff ratio are you running?
it's great to know that hurst shifter works, I'll be buying one of those, hopefully I can find one second hand. dunno what to do yet about the gearstick beign on the wrong side though...
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/53868-anyone-keen-on-fabricating-this/
#19
_Spark Eater_
Posted 11 September 2012 - 03:56 AM
What ratios did you go and what diff ratio are you running?
http://www.gmh-toran...bricating-this/
I said "custom" just because I wanted these ratios
2.52
1.88
1.46
1.00
dunno if I can afford to get that shifer made, until I get my hands on oxy and some damn equipment I might have to deal with the normal one.
also, ignore the sacrastic post by that frOcking dunce skapinad, I only just bought my first ever m22
#20
_Spark Eater_
Posted 11 September 2012 - 04:19 AM
#21
Posted 11 September 2012 - 06:50 AM
I just got out the grinder and welder, solved the tunnel problem and located the stick betterdunno what to do yet about the gearstick beign on the wrong side though...
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/35231-ss-hatch/page__st__100#entry638425
#22
_zooma355_
Posted 12 September 2012 - 10:51 AM
#23
_2door350_
Posted 12 September 2012 - 06:15 PM
#24
Posted 15 September 2012 - 05:54 PM
Well you can get new/rebuilt M22s landed from the States for less than $2k. High end units around $3.5k.
All factory original Muncies pretty much have 1.0 final ratio. If you're concerned about highway cruising I would save up for a M22 with overdrive 4th (~0.86 instead of the usual 1.0) or an M21Y.
If you're concerned about the gear strength with an M20 you could always consider switching out the M20 internals for M22 internals, from the States these kits are advertised as less than $750USD. I would think that the case would be fine for your application but not sure.
Overdrive on these is actually on 3rd! Wierd but true.
#25
Posted 15 September 2012 - 08:12 PM
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