I've got my lx hatch to the point where I need to paint under the wheel arches. Planning on bare metal then paint so I was just wondering a step by step guide
Thinking epoxy primer then seam sealer followed by top coating ( unsure of what brand to use)
So for my final coat what's recommended
Stone guard? Chassis black ? So many coatings out there I'm lost
Lol
Painting in wheel arches help please !
Started by
_sjp67m_
, Nov 21 2012 10:36 AM
6 replies to this topic
#2
TerrA LX
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Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:45 AM
You have the steps right, same as bare metal any panel.
Finish coat is personal preference.
Finish coat is personal preference.
#3
_sjp67m_
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Posted 21 November 2012 - 02:10 PM
Spoke To the bloke I've been buying the por15 of and I think I might go with por15 then seam seal the appropriate areas followed by another product from the por range (their version of rubberized paint)
#4
UCANG
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Posted 22 November 2012 - 05:48 PM
As Terra said, whatever you want to put on top is up to you. You can even have it the same colour of the car if you want to!
I epoxied, seam sealed then stone guarded.
If I wasnt going to do that, then I was going to use POR/ KBS then seam seal and stone guard.. both have the same effect. (POR and 2k epoxy non porous).
Up to you which preparation you feel like doing! The 3 step system of 2k Epoxy prep.
I'm pretty sure you can leave POR and seam seal but your idea on the rubberized paint is good too.. Being thick It'll blend all the seam sealer together and help with sound deadening and stone guard properties also.
I epoxied, seam sealed then stone guarded.
If I wasnt going to do that, then I was going to use POR/ KBS then seam seal and stone guard.. both have the same effect. (POR and 2k epoxy non porous).
Up to you which preparation you feel like doing! The 3 step system of 2k Epoxy prep.
I'm pretty sure you can leave POR and seam seal but your idea on the rubberized paint is good too.. Being thick It'll blend all the seam sealer together and help with sound deadening and stone guard properties also.
#5
_sjp67m_
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Posted 22 November 2012 - 06:05 PM
As Terra said, whatever you want to put on top is up to you. You can even have it the same colour of the car if you want to!
I epoxied, seam sealed then stone guarded.
If I wasnt going to do that, then I was going to use POR/ KBS then seam seal and stone guard.. both have the same effect. (POR and 2k epoxy non porous).
Up to you which preparation you feel like doing! The 3 step system of 2k Epoxy prep.
I'm pretty sure you can leave POR and seam seal but your idea on the rubberized paint is good too.. Being thick It'll blend all the seam sealer together and help with sound deadening and stone guard properties also.
At least using all por products I know they are compatible and I won't run into problems
#6
UCANG
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Posted 22 November 2012 - 06:09 PM
Thats true.
obviously it can still turn into shit when people don't follow the "best practise" for the products. I read somewhere here that someone was able to karcher all the POR paint off an engine bay that wasn't put on properly.
But yeah go for that mate, and good luck! Shouldn't have any problems in regards to longevity.
obviously it can still turn into shit when people don't follow the "best practise" for the products. I read somewhere here that someone was able to karcher all the POR paint off an engine bay that wasn't put on properly.
But yeah go for that mate, and good luck! Shouldn't have any problems in regards to longevity.
#7
_shan620_
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Posted 22 November 2012 - 11:03 PM
Nice topic, I'll be following these steps aswell.
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