14 replies to this topic

[limo]

tilt is my choice, use nolathane block and pin as connection (cuts down noise, borrowers as well)

4.8m  x 1.85 for tray, fibreglass guards about 200 mm wide each side

straight axles with 13" wheels

hydraulic over ride and disk brakes

long draw bar that pivots just in front of front shakle

tie down loops underneath welded through floor

electric winch

built my own, last one I used for 20 yrs the one I have now is better

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Are you serious about 13" wheels? There isn't anything available to handle the weight. I was told to use 215/60 x 16 LT tryes as they are now very common. Which means they are easy to get second hand.

[shadey1963]

Some ideas here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-trailer-build/

 

Regards

               Steve

[limo]

Are you serious about 13" wheels? There isn't anything available to handle the weight. I was told to use 215/60 x 16 LT tryes as they are now very common. Which means they are easy to get second hand.

my trailer is light weight, "C" section, square tube and folded checker plate strips for car wheels (no center)

total weight  about 580 kgms

13" with light truck tyres no problems

fine for average cars, Toranas/Commodores/Fords etc

[yel327]

I'd be going 4 wheel electric drums with onboard controller. When I got my trailer built originally, I had it built with 3tonne chassis, 3tonne rocker suspension, 45mm axles and axles setup for 4 wheel electrics. But I just put an over-ride coupling on it and rated it for 2tonne. Now it has been uprated to 4 wheel electric brakes (and 3tonne capacity) the difference in how it tows is phenomenal. Any sway that happens (which is rare behind a leaf sprung tow car if the trailer is weighted right) is instantly fixable by a quick tap on the brakes. There is no more banging and rattling from the over-ride coupling. And you don't abuse the brakes on the tow car like you do with over-ride brakes.

 

All it neds now is an electric winch with remote control. Everytime I use the wire rope boat winch I get worried about the damn thing snapping and cutting me in half! I ran big wires back to the big 12 or 13 pin trailer plug, and onto the trailer to charge an onboard battery, although it already has a small one onboard for the breakaway controller.

 

For tie downs see if you can put a row of bars across where the front tyres sit, so you can ratchet strap the tyres down. A few bars in the floor at the back will allow you to ratchet strap the diff down.

 

I also designed a unique rear tailgate for mine that uses the ramps. I'll get a photo and put it up later.

Edited by yel327, 22 February 2013 - 08:10 AM.

[yel327]

Here are the ramps. They sit across the back as a tailgate, you just drop the stabilising posts to release them, posts are used to stop the trailer from dropping too much at the back when car goes on, also allows to to put a car on and off when trailer is off the tow car.

 

[attachment=27621:Ramps1.JPG]

 

Another view. Type of lights is obvious, as is the corrosion protection chosen:

 

[attachment=27622:Ramps2.JPG]

 

Here is how the number plate is done, just a HQ-HZ sedan, coupe, Statesman or LH-UC Torana or Sunbird rear number plate flap:

 

[attachment=27623:Ramps3.JPG]

 

Front and diff tie downs (diff is just a hole in the floor so the 3tonne ratchet strap can go around the 50x50 chassis member):

 

[attachment=27624:Front tie downs.JPG]

[attachment=27625:Diff tie down.JPG]

 

Breakaway and auxiliary 12V socket (for lamp, compressor etc):

 

[attachment=27626:Side.JPG]

 

I built it to be a "box" as well as a car float. The only mistake I made before galvanising was no to put enough tie downs along the sides for use when carrying stuff other than a car. You can see the big U-bolt tie downs on the front of the "box", on the draw bars, at the rear under the ramp lips and you can just see the RH side one in front of the ramp "post". I should have put a few along the edges as well, but what i'll do now is cut some holes in the sides and add the bolt in eye-hooks.

 

When I first built this I painted it is 2-pac, but unless you build the trailer so EVERY surface is painted, with no steel overlaps it will rust unless you are away from the coast. I made the decision to spend the money to get it blasted and galvanised. BUT, do it before any paint goes on, it is very hard to get a previously painted trailer galvanised. The blue stuff on the RHS is OK to galvanise.

Edited by yel327, 22 February 2013 - 11:38 AM.

[hainzy]

Tilt trailers are great. Theres absolutely nothing worse than getting a cars gearbox or extractors caught on the end of the trailer when its half way up the ramp and youre stuck and swearing, and thinking, lordy lord why didnt i hire a tilt trailer...

[yel327]

Mine just drops at the rear on the rocker suspension. Stabilising posts can be used to control how far it drops too.

[yel327]

The idea for the ramp tailgate came from a mate's trailer. On his it had C-channel at the rear, standing upright and the ramps dropped in between them. It was fine with small cars like LH Torana etc but the problem was when you put a Holden or Statesman on it it hung over the ramps and you couldn't put the ramps back on, so they had to lay under the car. With it this way they can go on easily even with a bargeass Brougham, Statesman or ute/van on it.