16 replies to this topic

[mrlctorana]

Hey guy's, just after some opinions on a good all round set-up for my LC for both street and circuit racing, The front end is way out atm and is starting to scrub out the outer edge of the front left tyre, so I thought it was about time to set it up properly. I haven't done a wheel alignment on it since I got it back on the road, lol.

What specs do some of you run, as in Camber, Caster and Toe?

Cheers

Les

[mrlctorana]

Yeah, Steve the camber helps, What would be best for the track though, I thought I'd need to run a little more than that around 2 degrees or so neg camber, but not really too sure about toe. I remember reading, by olden64 that they run toe-in not out as when the wheels are turned it then has toe-out or equalises it's self, Unsure but would like to know if someone can help.

Cheers

Les

[mrlctorana]

Thanks Rory, might run something similar/same as that set-up.

One thing im not too sure of is how to measure castor, Can someone give me an idea of how to measure it without all the purpose built tools.

Anyone else have any other specs that work well for Circuit racing aswell as driving on the street???

Cheers

Les

[mrlctorana]

Cheers Greg, I was kinda waiting for you to pop up as I remember reading a few of your posts before on this topic and actually wrote these settings down somewhere, but where they are now I dont know.

Steve - I have already lowered the upper control arm mounting points by 1"

- 3deg camber
+ 5deg caster
1mm toe OUT

I know how to adjust camber and caster as it is pretty basic. The only thing i am stuck with is measuring the castor, Other than that im quite confident in setting it up.

Heres the basic adjusting up of camber/castor:

BOTH BOLTS: Adding or removing shims of the same thickness from both bolts will alter camber only.

FRONT BOLT: Adding shims only at the front bolt will reduce castor and camber, Removing shims at the front bolt increases castor and camber.

REAR BOLT: Adding shims only at the rear bolt increases castor and reduces camber. Removing shims only at the rear bolt reduces castor and increases camber.

So going by that the first thing would be to adjust the castor until it is correct and then add or remove the same thickness shims from both bolts until you have the correct camber angle.

Can anybody help with measuring castor???

Cheers

Les

[makka]

personally if I were you I would take it to an aligner and say, this is what I want done, do it! it saves the hassle of doing and trying to measure it yourself

[mrlctorana]

Yeah, Know what your saying, but theres only one way to learn and the only place my car has been to have work done on it by someone else was the exhaust, other than that the whole car has been done by me in my shed and Im happy with it and have learnt so much doing it that i'd rather do it my self. If i was in a hurry to have it done yeah, fair enough but theres no hurry so im gunna have a go at it.

Les

[Toranamat69]

To measure Castor you need a camber/castor gauge and some way to tell when each of the wheels is turned 20 degrees either side from srtaight ahead.

M@

[mrlctorana]

I haven't started setting it up yet as I found a worn lower control arm bush so im in the process of replacing both the upper and lower control arm bushes with new nolathane one and also the ball joints, One side ready to go back together. Would love a press, but had to settle for the vice and the oven to heat the control arm up, lol. It worked.... Although my better half laughed when i came inside and put the lower control arm in the oven.

My upper contol arm mounting bolts have been drilled 1 inch below the originals, and you can definately get more -ve camber than 1.5 degrees. I have a camber guage so im fine with camber, but still not real sure with castor, turning the wheel 20 degrees rings a bell, might have to get the TAFE books back out and go through them.

Les