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BLUE 253 into LH


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#1 _oikurtman_

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 02:16 PM

hey guys,

I can finally get started. the old man GAVE me a working blue 253 out of a VH commo.

Please tell me these motors fit!

Will the sump be ok for clearance? I've got a torry sump off a red 308 if need be..

I have a v8 torana radiator too but it doesn't have the plugs for the auto cooling lines. Can they be installed?

Cheers.

#2 makka

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 03:28 PM

you will need the red sump. you would be better off going and getting a cheap oil cooler instead of running it through the radiator. thats what I do on mine

#3 _oikurtman_

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 08:25 PM

alright will do. He gave me a traumatic too, but he said it was slipping and clunking when it was pulled out.. Could that just be lack of fluid? Would it be worth putting seals and gaskets on it and trying it?

cheers

#4 MRLXSS

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 02:45 AM

My Trimatic slips when its cold, I got told i just have to take off the pan, and replace the filter and gasket.....

The filter is obviously blocked and hte thicker fluid when cold struggles to get through... When it warms up it will get through fine...

Maybe as ka few more Q's bout the box. cos if its totally shagged, it would prob be better to just pick one up somewhere else and save yourself all the headaches of taking it outs etc later on...

#5 _oikurtman_

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 01:16 PM

i asked a few ppl and explained the symptoms...

I'm going to get a seal, gasket and filter kit coz the box is out at the moment and the kit is cheap. I'll keep you posted

Cheers.

#6 _oikurtman_

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 01:21 PM

quick question...

while the extractors are off it, (tri-y genie's) should i give them a coat of that heat proof paint? they look a bit rusty..

Cheers.

#7 makka

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 07:33 PM

wire brush and sand them, then use really good heat proof paint

#8 MRLXSS

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 10:54 PM

yeah dont be afraid to pay a little bit more for top quality heat paint, or else it just fades and looks shit


Stove pot black or something is a good durable colour and never fades! Yet still looks neat

#9 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 11:09 PM

use red sump and pickup.
box is a suck it and see. hope for u that it only needs the bits you are going to service it with. if treated as a auto trimatics give good service. holding first too long usually kills them.

#10 _oikurtman_

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 11:09 AM

cheers fellas.. starting today. wish me luck! keep ya posted :spoton:

#11 _oikurtman_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 07:28 PM

I picked up a v8 radiator today for the torana, but it doesn't have any fittings or any thing resembling fittings for the auto cooling lines.

Can they be put in?

Or has anyone got a v8 radiator?

Cheers.

#12 _Neat LX_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:47 PM

Interesting...
I just bought a 3 core for a torana (as im fitting a 253 into mine also) and it came with auto fitting and a plug.
The guy said to me that, thats how they make them now to suit both manual and auto as it was too expensive to make one or the other.

My new radiator cost $308 from a shop here in WA

#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 07:02 PM

just run a seperate trans cooler.

#14 makka

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 09:22 PM

^im with him

#15 _oikurtman_

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 08:01 AM

i'm working on the cooling issue...

a mate came over the other day and made a good point about this otor i'm working on. It's been sitting outside, (covered) for about 18 months. He said its possible that I might snap a ring when cranking it over. He suggested spraying oil in all the spark plug holes and letting it sit for a couple hours, then turning it over by hand. Please tell me I haven't wasted all this time and money on a motor thats gonna snap rings!!

Cheers :blink:

#16 makka

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 02:29 PM

do what he said, and it should be fine. I wiold use some kind of penetrating oil like penetrene or similar. diesel works as well

#17 TerrA LX

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 09:39 PM

outside for 18 months, mmmmmmm
i dont think it will snap rings unless it is ceased. oil it up and turn it over by hand (or spanner or socket) if you run into problems or need a 3 foot breaker baqr you got more then ring problems.

just remember when you oil it up you gonna have to burn it to get it started.

#18 _oikurtman_

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 07:46 PM

hm...

i'll throw some oil in it tomorrow morning and try to crank it by hand in the arvo...

hopefully i'll have good news next post!

CHeers.

#19 _oikurtman_

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 06:56 PM

yeah the oil trick worked great. helped get alot of junk out of the barrels. cranked over no worries just with a 1/2 inch socket wrench.

i ran into a problem with the auto shifter... the 202 auto had the shift linkage on the right hand side, but the blue motor and trans was on the left. managed to pull the t-bar apart and swap the linkage over.. hope it works.

my main worry at the moment though is the tailshaft. when i measured the distance from the back of the engine mounts to the back of the transmissions, the blue 253 auto was 60mm shorter than the red 202 and trans. reckon i'll be up for a custom tailshaft? what are they worth?

cheers :blink:

#20 TerrA LX

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 07:01 PM

trans u might find has reverse shift pattern now and get a V8 tailshaft.

#21 _oikurtman_

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 08:00 PM

is the v8 tailshaft different? i was told the 6cyl one was the same?

do you think ebay would be my best bet for it?

hm. i hope my shifts aren't reversed...

cheers

#22 TerrA LX

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 09:02 PM

better ask in a new thread if tail shaft is different, its been a while 4 me, but i thought they were,
with trans shift to park and check if the rear input shaft turns or not will tell u if its in park or not.

#23 _oikurtman_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:38 PM

temporarily fitted tailshaft today, seems ok. the yoke sits about half in... but it looks like thats where it sat before coz half is clean steel and half is brown. ok you think?

now i have two more problems...

first; the engine is in and turning over, but i can't fit the extractors in. they are tri-y genie extractors which i pulled out of an LH, so i know they 'can' fit. the question is, should i pull the engine out and bolt the extractors to the heads? or should I pull the motor out, throw the extractors in, then fit them on to the heads once the motor is back in?

second; something must be really wrong with my wiring. i've been looking at diagrams all day trying to figure it out. engine turns over, front and back blinkers work, headlights work and stereo works. But, the tail lights, brake lights, number plate light, dash lights and horns dont work. all fuses ok. someone PLEASE help me with this it is driving me crazy! :furious:

cheers.

#24 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:00 PM

From the sounds of it the live sources on the fuse panel are not getting a 12 V supply. If you have a multimeter check the voltage between the fuse terminals and earth for the stop and park lamps fuses.
If this is confirmed as no voltage present, then the failure to this point needs to be investigated. There should be a very large diameter red wire that supplies the power bar for these bank of fuses, it will go back to the headlight switch and joins another red wire which should then make its way to the ignition switch. Check the connection of this wire/integrity of join at the headlight switch(where it attaches to the switch will be the point where your headlamps are getting its 12V they are working, so we know there is power in the wire up to that point)
My circuit diag of the LH/x is a little blurry, and im going off the UC one here, but Im 99% confident this part of the fuse panel, ign and headlight switch are exactly the same. The power fuse for your dash lights is supplied downstream from the headlight switch and it should be rectified by fixing the above.
Let us know how you go.

#25 _oikurtman_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:25 PM

ok... just went and tested the fuses...

all work except the 'inst. lts' both terminals and the left terminal of the horn/stop/tail/dome fuse.

any ideas??

cheers




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