BLUE 253 into LH
#1 _oikurtman_
Posted 21 June 2006 - 02:16 PM
I can finally get started. the old man GAVE me a working blue 253 out of a VH commo.
Please tell me these motors fit!
Will the sump be ok for clearance? I've got a torry sump off a red 308 if need be..
I have a v8 torana radiator too but it doesn't have the plugs for the auto cooling lines. Can they be installed?
Cheers.
#2
Posted 21 June 2006 - 03:28 PM
#3 _oikurtman_
Posted 21 June 2006 - 08:25 PM
cheers
#4
Posted 22 June 2006 - 02:45 AM
The filter is obviously blocked and hte thicker fluid when cold struggles to get through... When it warms up it will get through fine...
Maybe as ka few more Q's bout the box. cos if its totally shagged, it would prob be better to just pick one up somewhere else and save yourself all the headaches of taking it outs etc later on...
#5 _oikurtman_
Posted 23 June 2006 - 01:16 PM
I'm going to get a seal, gasket and filter kit coz the box is out at the moment and the kit is cheap. I'll keep you posted
Cheers.
#6 _oikurtman_
Posted 23 June 2006 - 01:21 PM
while the extractors are off it, (tri-y genie's) should i give them a coat of that heat proof paint? they look a bit rusty..
Cheers.
#7
Posted 23 June 2006 - 07:33 PM
#8
Posted 24 June 2006 - 10:54 PM
Stove pot black or something is a good durable colour and never fades! Yet still looks neat
#9
Posted 24 June 2006 - 11:09 PM
box is a suck it and see. hope for u that it only needs the bits you are going to service it with. if treated as a auto trimatics give good service. holding first too long usually kills them.
#10 _oikurtman_
Posted 25 June 2006 - 11:09 AM
#11 _oikurtman_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 07:28 PM
Can they be put in?
Or has anyone got a v8 radiator?
Cheers.
#12 _Neat LX_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:47 PM
I just bought a 3 core for a torana (as im fitting a 253 into mine also) and it came with auto fitting and a plug.
The guy said to me that, thats how they make them now to suit both manual and auto as it was too expensive to make one or the other.
My new radiator cost $308 from a shop here in WA
#13
Posted 28 June 2006 - 07:02 PM
#14
Posted 28 June 2006 - 09:22 PM
#15 _oikurtman_
Posted 30 June 2006 - 08:01 AM
a mate came over the other day and made a good point about this otor i'm working on. It's been sitting outside, (covered) for about 18 months. He said its possible that I might snap a ring when cranking it over. He suggested spraying oil in all the spark plug holes and letting it sit for a couple hours, then turning it over by hand. Please tell me I haven't wasted all this time and money on a motor thats gonna snap rings!!
Cheers
#16
Posted 30 June 2006 - 02:29 PM
#17
Posted 30 June 2006 - 09:39 PM
i dont think it will snap rings unless it is ceased. oil it up and turn it over by hand (or spanner or socket) if you run into problems or need a 3 foot breaker baqr you got more then ring problems.
just remember when you oil it up you gonna have to burn it to get it started.
#18 _oikurtman_
Posted 02 July 2006 - 07:46 PM
i'll throw some oil in it tomorrow morning and try to crank it by hand in the arvo...
hopefully i'll have good news next post!
CHeers.
#19 _oikurtman_
Posted 03 July 2006 - 06:56 PM
i ran into a problem with the auto shifter... the 202 auto had the shift linkage on the right hand side, but the blue motor and trans was on the left. managed to pull the t-bar apart and swap the linkage over.. hope it works.
my main worry at the moment though is the tailshaft. when i measured the distance from the back of the engine mounts to the back of the transmissions, the blue 253 auto was 60mm shorter than the red 202 and trans. reckon i'll be up for a custom tailshaft? what are they worth?
cheers
#20
Posted 03 July 2006 - 07:01 PM
#21 _oikurtman_
Posted 03 July 2006 - 08:00 PM
do you think ebay would be my best bet for it?
hm. i hope my shifts aren't reversed...
cheers
#22
Posted 03 July 2006 - 09:02 PM
with trans shift to park and check if the rear input shaft turns or not will tell u if its in park or not.
#23 _oikurtman_
Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:38 PM
now i have two more problems...
first; the engine is in and turning over, but i can't fit the extractors in. they are tri-y genie extractors which i pulled out of an LH, so i know they 'can' fit. the question is, should i pull the engine out and bolt the extractors to the heads? or should I pull the motor out, throw the extractors in, then fit them on to the heads once the motor is back in?
second; something must be really wrong with my wiring. i've been looking at diagrams all day trying to figure it out. engine turns over, front and back blinkers work, headlights work and stereo works. But, the tail lights, brake lights, number plate light, dash lights and horns dont work. all fuses ok. someone PLEASE help me with this it is driving me crazy!
cheers.
#24 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:00 PM
If this is confirmed as no voltage present, then the failure to this point needs to be investigated. There should be a very large diameter red wire that supplies the power bar for these bank of fuses, it will go back to the headlight switch and joins another red wire which should then make its way to the ignition switch. Check the connection of this wire/integrity of join at the headlight switch(where it attaches to the switch will be the point where your headlamps are getting its 12V they are working, so we know there is power in the wire up to that point)
My circuit diag of the LH/x is a little blurry, and im going off the UC one here, but Im 99% confident this part of the fuse panel, ign and headlight switch are exactly the same. The power fuse for your dash lights is supplied downstream from the headlight switch and it should be rectified by fixing the above.
Let us know how you go.
#25 _oikurtman_
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:25 PM
all work except the 'inst. lts' both terminals and the left terminal of the horn/stop/tail/dome fuse.
any ideas??
cheers
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