VL Brake repair
#1 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 25 June 2006 - 02:11 PM
After driving a mates VL on friday nite and discovering how bad the brakes really are, with him being short on cash, i offered to help him fix them next week since both of us are on holidays.
He took it too a mechanic who quoted him around $600 to get:
Front Discs machined
New pads front (Disc)
New Shoes Rear (drum)
New wheel cylinders rear (they are leaking)
Anyone got any idea on prices and or part numbers for the above?
Hes pretty cash straped so I suggested to him we leave the maching for the moment and just get the rest sorted.
At the moment when driving the pedal probably travels about 3" when you press the brakes and it takes that much movement to get the brakes to apply hard. The pedal feels very spoungy, not hard at all. His hand brake is pointing almost vertical and he leaves it in gear cause he doesn't have much faith in it.
Steve
#2
Posted 25 June 2006 - 02:33 PM
pads $35
wheel cylinders $20-30 pair
rear shoes (i haven't done a set for ages)
Supa cheap has everything you need. You don't have to machine the discs unless they are deeply grooved..but you will have to take it easy until the pads bed in properly. They spongy feeling will go after you bleed it, the travel will be normal after you adjust the rear brakes.
#3
Posted 25 June 2006 - 06:36 PM
best for cash strapped to do in two stages and start with the rear, get it right and if you still got enough front pads, drive it and you will tell if you need the front machined.
remember in normal service with drum rear brakes they auto adjust when you reverse but you must have your foot on the brake. i do it by riding the brakes when reversing out the drive way.
if you fail to do the above you will suffer from a low pedal and possible spungy feel.
the rear cylinders may be leaking if there is excessive wear in the shoes causing long travel in the wheel cylinder.
if your not familliar with brakes, shop around and have a mechanic do the job, brakes are not a place for simple mistakes.
#4
Posted 25 June 2006 - 07:33 PM
We do packages for $99 which is front discs and pads too
So you should be able to get a similar deal local
We have it advertised in the latest Auto1 national catalogue.......find a local store
Anyway
Part #'s you require are
P10046 wheel cylinders x 2
N1385 shoes
DB1085 pads
DR015 discs
Cheers
Neil
#5 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 26 June 2006 - 09:10 AM
One last one, which brake fluid? Or is it the same as the other post, just anything with a higer boiling point than 280c not silicon (Nulon maybe)?
Thanks for the warning ALX76 and i agree with you, but I have done work on brakes before, i'm no expert like dattoman, but I am carefull and through with working with brakes, and if its not working properly or i can't find the fault thats when i bring in the experts... i don't want to put anyones life at risk.
Steve
#6 _73lj202_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:24 AM
#7 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 01:03 PM
I have never played with a master cylinder before. Any idea what this would cost to get done? Or do you have any time free over the next couple of weeks?
Like I said earlier my mate is pretty cash strapped so we are just trying to fix what we can.
Steve
#8 _73lj202_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 02:55 PM
At the moment bit strapped for time, got a couple of projects on.
#9 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 27 June 2006 - 04:30 PM
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 27 June 2006 - 04:30 PM.
#10 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:10 PM
It was about 10am when we started then apart from an hour or so for lunch we didn't finish till 9:30.
Superman here broke another bolt, misreading the poorly written manual and over torquing the caliper to pad braket bolt but luckly my mates sisters boyfriend used to have a VL and happened to have the brake calipers.
So its all done. He was quite happy with the result... i still think the pedal is too spoungey...
Any suggestions? I am thinking maybe replace hoses might fix the spoungyness, or maybe another go at bleeding the brakes.
Steve
#11
Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:20 PM
ARE you still getting air on the bleed.
#12
Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:24 PM
if so clamp the top and bottom of the hose....... drop the top clamp and if the pedal drops you can condemn the hose
If its daggy to start with rebleed
#13 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:33 PM
There is no air that i could see coming out and i let a lot of fluid through to try and get the old stuff out, and no we didn't let the resovior run dry.
never thought of that Dattoman, have to give it a go.
Thanks guys.
Steve
#14
Posted 28 June 2006 - 11:09 PM
start on rears by adjusting as far as will let you install the drum with out grabbing (if drums have not been machined there will be a ridge which you will have to force the drum over. this ridge is not to be included when assessing if the drums are dragging (grabbing)), part adjust the hand brake so you have it just in case, then auto adjust the rest of the way. (reverse driving).
Finish with final hand brake adjust and i think you will find the pedal will come up(meaning it will travel less and feel harder). otherwise i think the problem is else were.
Edited by ALX76, 28 June 2006 - 11:12 PM.
#15 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 03 July 2006 - 10:50 AM
Steve
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