Bring it on
DIY advice on install of body kit for LX
Started by
_kaz from adelaide_
, Jun 26 2006 10:41 PM
26 replies to this topic
#1
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 26 June 2006 - 10:41 PM
I need as much info on how to attatch spoiler, bobtail, flares and bonnet scoop to an LX torrie.
Bring it on
Bring it on
#2
RIM-010
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DON'T PANIC
- Name:Tim
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Posted 26 June 2006 - 10:52 PM
Is Ruby going A9X Style?Good Luck!
RIM
#3
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 12:23 AM
Yep, I got an wicked deal on flares etc and I was dancin all day
Now all i gotta do is tell hubby
still havent convinced myself of a colour yet tho!!!!!I thought I had decided, but now i'm not sure, I think now the project is getting official i'd better pul my finger out.
Now all i gotta do is tell hubby
still havent convinced myself of a colour yet tho!!!!!I thought I had decided, but now i'm not sure, I think now the project is getting official i'd better pul my finger out.
#4
_user asked to be removed_
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 01:34 PM
I remember there was an atricle of some sought in a magizine I was reading, if I find it i'll scan it, but the odds are against me i'll find it
#5
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 01:41 PM
I also need a paint supplier in Adel.
#6
MRLXSS
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 02:21 PM
easy as! Have you got a Fitting kit for it as well?
if not, got to clark rubber and get the piping rubber etc..
then head to a bolt shop to ket yourself all the nuts and bolts... make sure u get stainless as well...
Rares has it as a complete kit, its costs more and also their bolts rust!!
Good Luck!
if not, got to clark rubber and get the piping rubber etc..
then head to a bolt shop to ket yourself all the nuts and bolts... make sure u get stainless as well...
Rares has it as a complete kit, its costs more and also their bolts rust!!
Good Luck!
#7
_HatchmanSS76_
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 09:08 PM
Get dome head stainless bolts not socket head. Finish is so much better.
You won't get the bolts from your local hardware store.
You need to find an industrial supplier for that stuff. Ring around.
I got mine from Blackwoods.
You won't get the bolts from your local hardware store.
You need to find an industrial supplier for that stuff. Ring around.
I got mine from Blackwoods.
#8
_munro_
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Posted 28 June 2006 - 05:58 PM
my best advice is take your time and make sure everything is aligned
tom
tom
#9
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 12:24 PM
ta guys.
how many bolts for each piece. Do i use same bolts for bobtail, spoiler and bonnet scoop. What size r bolts.
Anyone got pics of work they did in a conversion.
Cheers.
I have finally chosen a colour, funny thing is when I told hubby he had allready been trying to trace this colour. We seem 2 always b on the same wave length, but he seems to be at the start of it and me at the end of it and we somehow meet in the middle and all works out great.
I finally got up courage to tell him of the conversion, I waited till I got himup to watch the soccer the other morning, at half time I said >'OH my boss has a set of pump up shocks for me and also a pair of SLR side mirrors for me, the mirrors will go with the flare kit I am getting from Damo and green' He just looked at me as I continued with the price comparison of new to what I had scored this for. All he said was 'SO u r going the SLR look r u?'. I figured he was already suss about it as I kept showin him pics of different SLR/A9X and L34's and askin his opinion. My screen saver was an L34.
He's into it, well he didnt really have a choice.
Ruby will not make it mallala this year.
But look out 2007.
And no I didnt forget to put down my final colour choice. I AM NOT TELLIN, Its gunna b a surprise.
how many bolts for each piece. Do i use same bolts for bobtail, spoiler and bonnet scoop. What size r bolts.
Anyone got pics of work they did in a conversion.
Cheers.
I have finally chosen a colour, funny thing is when I told hubby he had allready been trying to trace this colour. We seem 2 always b on the same wave length, but he seems to be at the start of it and me at the end of it and we somehow meet in the middle and all works out great.
I finally got up courage to tell him of the conversion, I waited till I got himup to watch the soccer the other morning, at half time I said >'OH my boss has a set of pump up shocks for me and also a pair of SLR side mirrors for me, the mirrors will go with the flare kit I am getting from Damo and green' He just looked at me as I continued with the price comparison of new to what I had scored this for. All he said was 'SO u r going the SLR look r u?'. I figured he was already suss about it as I kept showin him pics of different SLR/A9X and L34's and askin his opinion. My screen saver was an L34.
He's into it, well he didnt really have a choice.
Ruby will not make it mallala this year.
But look out 2007.And no I didnt forget to put down my final colour choice. I AM NOT TELLIN, Its gunna b a surprise.
#10
_munro_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 12:36 PM
a little off topic'OH my boss has a set of pump up shocks for me
if you use pump ups put them on seperate lines
it will make ruby ride sweet
tom
#11
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 12:57 PM
what do u mean seperate lines?????
#12
_The String_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 03:40 PM
When you get a set of pump up shocks, they normally come with air lines that join together in a 'T' Piece, which then has the valve on it so you can pump them up.
Mine has a set of wrecking yard ones with the shocks set up like this.
What can happen is when you hit a bump the air can travel between the shocks, so the car gets unsettled through corners etc.
If you have them on separate lines, ie one valve per line and no 'T' piece, the air stays in each shock, so they work independantly, resulting in better ride.
Mine has a set of wrecking yard ones with the shocks set up like this.
What can happen is when you hit a bump the air can travel between the shocks, so the car gets unsettled through corners etc.
If you have them on separate lines, ie one valve per line and no 'T' piece, the air stays in each shock, so they work independantly, resulting in better ride.
#13
_timbotorrie_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 10:18 PM
i would suggest lining up, measuring and lining up again about 10 times on each corner for the flares and make sure they sit in the same spot on both sides of the car
they are a pain to fit no matter what
they are a pain to fit no matter what
#14
TerrA LX
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 11:20 PM
for fitting flares i suggest taping them in place first then marking the holes for drilling.
before drilling any holes test fit again till your happy, then drill a pilot (small) hole first. you can then open this hole up to the size you need.
do you have access to a insert gun, they kinda pop rivet a thread type insert into the hole, much eazier then nuts.
also did you know that you have to cut the front guards and rear quarters for big tyre clearence?
before drilling any holes test fit again till your happy, then drill a pilot (small) hole first. you can then open this hole up to the size you need.
do you have access to a insert gun, they kinda pop rivet a thread type insert into the hole, much eazier then nuts.
also did you know that you have to cut the front guards and rear quarters for big tyre clearence?
#15
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 01:26 AM
Great tips and explanations. thanks heaps.
I sort of had planned on cutting guards as she is a scraper on existing tyres, and at the moment
i dont have plans 2 change mags or wheel size.
re pump ups . i sorta thought that was what u ment, but I havent had air shocks since my first car and that is long ago.
I will go and get a script of vallium for the job, not for me but for hubby. I would never do a job with me, I am a difficult customer. Once i get colour match i will start spinnin. I got the front spoiler 2 day, 2 piece from Greenmachine. Where it meets at the join how do u get the smooth finish.
I sort of had planned on cutting guards as she is a scraper on existing tyres, and at the moment
i dont have plans 2 change mags or wheel size.re pump ups . i sorta thought that was what u ment, but I havent had air shocks since my first car and that is long ago.
I will go and get a script of vallium for the job, not for me but for hubby. I would never do a job with me, I am a difficult customer. Once i get colour match i will start spinnin. I got the front spoiler 2 day, 2 piece from Greenmachine. Where it meets at the join how do u get the smooth finish.
#16
TerrA LX
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 03:00 AM
oh for bob tail u may need to tape in place and draw around it.
remove bob and make a template the same size as mark out. (paper or cardboard)
then place temp squarley over bob tail to find holes and make your holes in the template.
transfer the temp to the car and mark holes.
when you cut the rear you may have to weld the outer to the inner.
front spoiler cant comment with out pics, but im thinken mount front spoiler straight first then work flair from that.
remove bob and make a template the same size as mark out. (paper or cardboard)
then place temp squarley over bob tail to find holes and make your holes in the template.
transfer the temp to the car and mark holes.
when you cut the rear you may have to weld the outer to the inner.
front spoiler cant comment with out pics, but im thinken mount front spoiler straight first then work flair from that.
#17
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 09:27 AM
I will post some pics 2 day.
#18
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 12:55 PM
I am guessing most of the middle join will b covered by the number plates, but should it join smoother???
#19
_munro_
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 03:57 PM
some of join worse than that some manufacturers relie on number plate covering up join
i think it depends on who made it to how bad it is
i think it depends on who made it to how bad it is
#20
TerrA LX
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Posted 02 July 2006 - 12:00 AM
yeah u can get it better than that.
1 looks like top one will sit better under. hard to judge but see which way sits best.
2 trial fit (several) on car and mark intersection.
at this stage you can also mark mounting pos.
3 double check then bond it together. encourage those gape at the middle if your fussy by clamping and if need be screwing wood pieces in behind. ( small screws and fill holes left behind once finnished)
4 semmi final fit, mark out for trimming to get it assimetrical.
prep and final fit.
^^^^^each depends on how fussy u r.
1 looks like top one will sit better under. hard to judge but see which way sits best.
2 trial fit (several) on car and mark intersection.
at this stage you can also mark mounting pos.
3 double check then bond it together. encourage those gape at the middle if your fussy by clamping and if need be screwing wood pieces in behind. ( small screws and fill holes left behind once finnished)
4 semmi final fit, mark out for trimming to get it assimetrical.
prep and final fit.
^^^^^each depends on how fussy u r.
#22
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Paisty White
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Posted 02 July 2006 - 09:03 PM
what are they made of. i just finished a poly welding course so if its poly you can get a heat/welding gun that you would be able to make it all fit together better. if its poly you have to weld using same materiial that includes the rod (pit of poly) just cut a thin sliver and use that.
all thats probually useless cause i think all flairs and junk are made from fibre glass?
all thats probually useless cause i think all flairs and junk are made from fibre glass?
#24
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 02 July 2006 - 10:02 PM
Mmm, that's a different take on the one-piece spoilers, just in two bits (molded bit for number plates). Most front spoilers use a separate bracket for the number plate, not a flat panel for it to sit on, and the join is accentuated by a raised round bit one side of the join. I think your going to have to accept that it's just one of the peculiarities of this particular front spoiler (pretend you are unique).
For front spoiler do a test fit, bolts up through the brake ducts in the spoiler, mark so you have about a 25 mm or better overlap flare to spoiler. Also test fit flares first. Front spoiler should fit fairly snug up beneath the chrome smile (lower radiator trims) if fitted. Measure many times, cut once. (Better idea follows).
You can actually fit the whole front spoiler up (so long as you don't drive it and have standard wheels on) without cutting, get all the holes done, etc, and cut later once all fitting nice if you want. (Brake duct bolts are a shit to do by the way, just warning). The rear of the spoiler needs to be cut off, as the wider wheels foul them. Even on non-flared cars with wide wheels, you find you need to trim of some inner bottom of the front spoiler.
For front spoiler do a test fit, bolts up through the brake ducts in the spoiler, mark so you have about a 25 mm or better overlap flare to spoiler. Also test fit flares first. Front spoiler should fit fairly snug up beneath the chrome smile (lower radiator trims) if fitted. Measure many times, cut once. (Better idea follows).
You can actually fit the whole front spoiler up (so long as you don't drive it and have standard wheels on) without cutting, get all the holes done, etc, and cut later once all fitting nice if you want. (Brake duct bolts are a shit to do by the way, just warning). The rear of the spoiler needs to be cut off, as the wider wheels foul them. Even on non-flared cars with wide wheels, you find you need to trim of some inner bottom of the front spoiler.
#25
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 02 July 2006 - 11:35 PM
what do u mean pretend(pretend you are unique).
this one is fiberglass.
Edited by kaz from adelaide, 02 July 2006 - 11:39 PM.
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