24 replies to this topic

[BIG KEV]

I think this is something you would have to make yourself.......

[yel327]

Was it CRS that sold the caliper bracket kit for HK-HX drum brake stubs?

[76lxhatch]

The Commodore mounting isn't that far off so there's not really room for an adapter bracket without changing the whole pad carrier part of the caliper; the ones I've seen simply weld up the original mounting holes and drill new ones in the right spot. Then bolt on to the HQ stub and use adapter hubs and Commodore discs.

[dattoman]

VT calipers are poo

They also suit a 28mm thick disc

HQ disc is 25.4 when new

So as the pad wears the potential for the pad to flick out of the caliper increases

 

I strongly advise against using this caliper and design

[76lxhatch]

I'm just using stranded slotted HQ rotors

 

So why change the calipers?

[yel327]

I'm just using stranded slotted HQ rotors and thanks for the photo did you use new rotors and brake pads to set up for the bracket

 

Just use modified HQ PBR calipers or UC PBR with HOLDEN pad carrier. Unless you are racing the car they'll be fine for the street use.

[BIG KEV]

i have been reading lots of stuff on hear about HQ brakes on Torana LH / LX ......all the info that i have collect on here leads to this set up .....HQ  stubs ,rotors and calipers .....now correct me if i am wrong but Toranas LH / LX are lighter than the bigger  heavier HQ's so should stop better .....

and you can buy replacement pads from anywhere......and all parts are GM ......and there is no need for fancy brackets

[ls2lxhatch]

It all depends on how much the car weighs, many times you want to be able to stop and from what speed.

 

HQ discs on a Torana are probably all you need driving on public roads at the speed limit. If you want to stop from higher speeds or more often then you are going to need more brakes.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 25 August 2013 - 05:00 PM.

[BIG KEV]

Do some home work .....see what others have done and what they are using ......

Go back and read Datto's post about VT calipers in his words "poo" and wrong size for the HQ rotors

[dattoman]

Drag racing is the opposite of normal motorsport

500 HP in an LJ should put you in the 10 second bracket if you can get it to hook up

Thats going to require the whole car to be reconfigured with cage etc.

 

Why put big heavy cast iron rotors on with big rotating mass with skinny little front runners ?

Might be worthwhile looking at something smaller and complimenting it with a matching rear disc setup

Most dedicated drag cars run larger rear brakes than front since thats where all the tyre is

 

I know you say your going to do some street use too... so maybe I'm overfiguring it

Either way... the VT caliper is rubbish... there are better options out there 

Thats why no-one uses them in their kits

Hoppers use AU2 calipers... Mr ebay uses VE calipers... though they are huge thick discs too.

Keep investigating. There are other options out there.

Sounds like you might have some calipers laying around or just want to do it on the cheap... its likely to cost you more in the long run though 

[Struggler]

FWIW my UC would weigh more than an LC/J, has about 700HP and runs over 140MPH in the 1/4".

 

I still have standard UC discs and calipers on the front and rarely use the rear brakes.

 

They do get hot and produce a bit of dust but they also get to cool down for at least an hour before I need them again.

 

As Datto pointed out, the tyres are really the limiting factor, I can lock them up pretty easily with a 3/4" master cylinder and no booster.

 

Just a bit of perspective for you.

Edited by Struggler, 26 August 2013 - 07:29 AM.

[BIG KEV]

Not sure what stubs you plan on using but if your going to use Hq rotors & stubs why not just match them to the correct caliper   "HQ" and then you have no hassel of needing any fancy brackets or just turn the disc diameter by 6mm like so many others ....Simples