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Elec Dizzy wiring

Started by knoath , Jun 29 2006 04:34 PM

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#1 knoath

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 04:34 PM

Help!
I'm installing an Elec Dizzy on a 202.
Can someone please tell me what wire goes where?
I don't have a spare one to go by, and I don't have any manuals to go by either.

GREEN and BEIGE wire from distributer.
BLACK from condensor.
BROWN (Tacho ?) and Yellow (?) from loom.

I think yellow should go to +ve(?)
Is this right?
Posted Image
Please help.
Cheers.

#2 _lxhatch_jim_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 04:47 PM

Have just done this myself on the weekend.

Green from Dizzy to -ve
Pink/beige from Dizzy to +ve
Black from condensor to +ve
Brown (tacho) to -ve
Yellow from loom to +ve

Well that's my understanding at least. Basically, the green dizzy wire and brown tacho are the only two that go to +ve

Check this out too, the dramas I had

http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=6488

Devilsadvocate has helped me heaps with all things electrical so check with him too. There is an article in the tech section that goes through resistance wire by-pass to hook up when fitting electronic dizzy's - may be applicable.

If there is an explosion, I take no responsibility.

Cheers
Jim

Edited by lxhatch_jim, 29 June 2006 - 04:53 PM.

#3 knoath

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 04:58 PM

Thanx lxhatch_jim, but you've confused me now!

Well that's my understanding at least. Basically, the green dizzy wire and brown tacho are the only two that go to +ve


Do you mean "the green dizzy wire and brown tacho are the only two that go to -ve"

Thanks!

#4 knoath

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 05:43 PM

Can anyone help?

#5 _lxhatch_jim_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 05:55 PM

The green dizzy wire and the brown tacho wire are the only two that go to the NEGATIVE.

I'm silly

Winner

Cheers
Jim

Edited by lxhatch_jim, 29 June 2006 - 05:55 PM.

#6 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 06:55 PM

Knoath, it appears as though you are using the existing ballast resistor coil, or is it?
What is that screw sticking out of the top of it. Have you bypassed the resistor wire?
In any case the distributor module itself will not be getting a constant full voltage supply and you are best of connecting the pink/beige wire to a switchable 12V supply from the fuse panel.

#7 knoath

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 08:25 PM

The coil is the one that was working with the dizzy on another motor.
The 'screw' sticking out the top is what the lead goes on...
This is the 202 in the '79 UC.
Have I bypassed the resistor wire?
Don't know, where is it normally? I'm wiring up what I took off the other motor. Where should the resistor wire be?

In the Hatch I'm running a t-coil, which is running through a relay... is this what you mean about the switchable 12v supply?

If so, I'll run it the same as the Hatch. I have a t-coil lying around, I can get a relay and wire it up the same way if this is a better option.
Thanks for the reply Devil's.

Anything else I should know?

Edited by knoath, 29 June 2006 - 08:27 PM.

#8 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 08:59 PM

Yes, if you have another tcoil lying around that would be suitable. Yes you would need to wire it up with a relay, or see http://www.gmh-toran...try_view&iden=7 which only requires ~1meter of wire.

#9 knoath

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 09:14 PM

Thanks again Devil's, most appreciated.

#10 knoath

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 05:18 PM

I have wired the elec dizzy like this, I have no spark.
Have I done it wrong?

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#11 Tiny

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 05:55 PM

I've read the article in the tech area that devils posted and i cant understand the use of the relay!

#12 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:04 PM

That should be okay, can you hear the relay click when you turn the ign to on?
Check the voltage when ign is on between +ve of coil and ground, should be +12V, also check between -ve of coil and ground - should be +12V.(not cranking motor)
If 0v between -ve of coil and ground, most likely scenario is coil is a dud......do you know that the coil and dizzy are good? Let us know how you go and if no success there are other things to test for.


Tiny, the relay method is an alternate way of doing it, but obviously involves 6 more connections and a functioning relay.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 01 July 2006 - 06:09 PM.

#13 knoath

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:06 PM

Thanks devil's..... stand by.

#14 Tiny

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:21 PM

Its just using the yellow ignition wire to trigger the relay to supply the coil with +12V??

Best of luck Dick!

#15 knoath

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:36 PM

OK..... I havent got a multi meter, but I used a test light as you said and got nothing from any point you suggested.
So I fitted the T coil and got the same.
I think I may have stuffed up somewhere.... I just wish I knew where!
The wire I've used is stainless and slightly thicker, does this effect the drawing power of the circuit? (More resistance or something?)

I can wire it back to standard and try again if I have to (will get me out of the house anyway!!)
I hate doing this shit, but how else will I learn?

#16 Tiny

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:47 PM

Trial and error is a bastard!

the +12V you got from the starter motor... Is that from the constant power terminal? You havent used the switched "trigger" wire have you?

Also check that you havent cooked any fuses and that the battery is hooked up! All simple mistakes that have cost many hours!!

Stainless wire.... no such animal! I'd say youve got tinned copper wire and as long as itsd automotive wire you wont have a problem. THe thicker the wire the LESS resistance it has!( Someone's going ot pick me up on that...) Thicker wire is capable of carrying more current than thinner wire!

Cheers!

#17 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:48 PM

Sorry, I thought you had fitted the tcoil already, full 12V circuit is for tcoil only.
I take it that when you use the test light across terminal 85 and earth(with ign on), and across 30 and earth that you get it to light? The wire you are using shouldnt be of a concern.
If that is okay, and you are not getting the test light to come on with the +ve of the coil and earth then the relay is no good.....does it click when you turn the ign to on?
Stick with it.

#18 knoath

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 06:53 PM

Yes, relay clicks.
I get no light at all anywhere.
Tiny, the power wire is on the 'large' terminal of the starter moter....

Does anyone on here do house calls?

I need to do a TAFE course or something....

Edited by knoath, 01 July 2006 - 06:54 PM.

#19 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 07:02 PM

If the relay is clicking it must mean the yell wire has 12V on it, it must light up the test lamp if you put it between terminal 85 and ground. Im assuming youve tested the test lamp across the battery?(hopefully the test lamp isnt a high wattage headlamp globe?)
If you are not getting the test lamp to light up between terminal 30 and ground, then go back to the connection at the starter and see if the test lamp lights here, if only at the starter end, problem in connection.

One thing you can do is just wire the +ve of the coil direct to the +ve of the battery and see if you get spark when you crank it, then youll know whether your coil and dizzy arent a prob either, atm we have trouble just getting 12v to the coil..

You dont need to do a Tafe course, but possibly buy yourself a $10 pocket multimeter.....leave it in the car.....its my number one tool.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 01 July 2006 - 07:07 PM.

#20 Tiny

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 07:05 PM

Sounds like You've got the right terminal on the starter mate!

Stick with it, You'll find it!!

Cheers

#21 knoath

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 07:06 PM

Thanks Devil's. (again!)
Will give it a bash tomorrow, it's bloody freezing outside!

#22 _Toranamuk_

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 09:38 PM

There's a simpler way of converting the ignition power supply to 12volt.

Undo the 3 bolts holding up the steering column, unplug the wiring plug from the ignition switch,

Bridge the yellow wire (12volt power supply to the coil on crank)
to the thin pink wire(which also has the thicker pink wire joined to it)
as close as possible to the ignition switch.

When joined close to the switch the resistor wire is all but useless & offers little or no voltage drop at all. If you get fussy remove the terminal from the plug & solder in a new wire to bridge the 2 together.

Doing this eliminates the use of the resistor wire in the loom (which can be cut at each end if you want) & is just copying the way that GMH did it for the vehicles that had electronic distributors as standard.

Edited by Toranamuk, 01 July 2006 - 09:42 PM.

#23 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 12:13 AM

Toranamuk, I know you are trying to be helpful, but perhaps read the thread from the start(checking out the links too) b4 posting, its all about where the comfort/expertise level of the person asking for help
While your fix will work, it is too hard for most(more difficult than actually necessary)........many choosing to pay a autoelec to do it for them.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 02 July 2006 - 12:16 AM.

#24 LX2DR

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 10:21 PM

Yes, relay clicks.
I get no light at all anywhere.
Tiny, the power wire is on the 'large' terminal of the starter moter....

Does anyone on here do house calls?

I need to do a TAFE course or something....

I know the "right" thing to do is run 12vdc at the electronic dissy.
But, my electronic dissy has been in 3 cars (2 hatches & 1 VB commadore)
I haven't changed any of the wiring and been no prob's that i have seen or felt.
The current hatch is running on the original wiring! and has been for 3+ years.
Actually the dissy has been in 4 cars, was in a EH as well and its the only car that had the wiring modified.

#25 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 10:33 PM

Yes, I have heard similar accounts. Perhaps there are no obvious "problems" and the car will still go, but that depends on what coil you are running. If you are running the resistor coil it will possibly run just as well as the points dizzy, with the advantage of not having to adjust points. If you are running the hei coil, the coil would not be performing to the level intended to produce a superior spark.......the major reason for using an electronic ign/dizzy, perhaps even performing below a standard ignition.
Did you connect all these ignitions to a 12V supply and compare the difference,especially at higher rpm and wider spark gaps?

Edited by devilsadvocate, 03 July 2006 - 10:38 PM.

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