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no start on the column auto red 6.


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#1 A9X

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 10:50 PM

the old HJ just died this arvo.

 

Dash lights are strong, good battery, but no start.

 

I've cleaned the starter motor connections, cleaned and checked the coil wires.

 

swapped the starter out this arvo for another.

 

zip.

 

I'm beginning to think the auto lockout switch has gone kaputt.

 

before i strip the column out any thoughts ??

 

 



oh, might add, it was driving fine and just died.

 

the son called me to fix it, when i got there, no issues , it started and ran fine.

 

Got me home parked it while i shifted cars in the drive and bingo, no start. Hasn't started since.



#2 _Lamo_

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 11:10 PM

Any noises at all? Have you tried wiring the starter direct from the battery?



#3 A9X

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 11:33 PM

no noises, pulled the starter and replaced it with a starter that was working on a previous motor, so haven't checked it 



#4 S pack

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 11:38 PM

Faulty neutral start switch won't cause an engine to stop running, if that's what you mean by "it was driving fine and just died".



#5 _Lamo_

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 11:52 PM

no noises, pulled the starter and replaced it with a starter that was working on a previous motor, so haven't checked it 

 

At least if you can start it directly from the starter, that way you have removed everything from the firewall forward from the equation. 

 

Please make sure the car is in park or neutral first.



#6 A9X

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:02 AM

Yes Dave, that was my thinking.



#7 S pack

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:46 AM

Faulty ignition switch or ignition coil or condenser in a points dizzy?

A faulty neutral start switch will give symptoms of a dead starter motor.



#8 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 05:44 PM

if the starter motor is not even engaging or clicking then it would be your inhibitor switch (park / neutral switch) or a faulty ignition switch. Or the wiring going from them to the starter. If you run a wire from the battery to the solenoid connection on the starter and it cranks over then it is in the wiring or switches i have mentioned, just need to start checking each switch with a multimeter or test lamp to see if your getting power through it while trying to start it. 



#9 rodomo

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 07:08 PM

Check the engine loom plug to the passenger side of the brake booster for dodgey connections. This will make it stop while driving and also not crank. AND so will the ignition switch.

#10 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 07:35 PM

Does it have a switch , attached to the column , and connected to the ignition switch by a rod ,I had trouble with one of them once.



#11 RallyRed

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 07:49 PM

Check the engine loom plug to the passenger side of the brake booster for dodgey connections. This will make it stop while driving and also not crank. AND so will the ignition switch.

+1

 

Had that loom plug issue on a VH V8 Commodore once, they were notorious for it, so the NRMA guy said.

p.s. .....assuming the earlier cars had this firewall/engine by plug/socket arrangement.?



#12 A9X

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:40 PM

will do the loom check next. 

 

Thinking i have 2 separate issues. The engine dying issue may be a smokescreen. The important and firs issue is the no start.

 

i've put a test lamp on the purple wire to the solenoid. The test lamp lights when i turn the ignition all the way on, so i guess that kills off the idea that it is the neutral lock out or ignition switch. Might be looking like the starter and its replacement are duds. 

 

 

What are the chances….



#13 r2160

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:47 PM

To check if the car runs, get a wire from the positive side of the coil directly to the positive side of the battery. Then get a screwdriver and touch the positive side of the starter motor to the solenoid wire, making sure the car is in park, that will eliminate the coil/dissy etc

cheers

Glenn



#14 RallyRed

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:47 PM

..it was a long time ago..but I recall that the loom/plug/socket issue was a case of a slightly under-rated size plug / socket ( from factory) and that indeed the voltage will still be present at the end of the circuit. However, due to a slightly burnt up plug/socket  ( due to under design and normal use ) the voltage died in the bum as soon as the load (started solenoid ) was applied. 

Trying to say that if you tested the cct with the actual load wire lifted, it may be masking the problem?

 

Can you restore the cct to normal AND connect the test lamp?

 

p.s. hope Ive interpreted your post correctly..



#15 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:54 PM

will do the loom check next. 

 

Thinking i have 2 separate issues. The engine dying issue may be a smokescreen. The important and firs issue is the no start.

 

i've put a test lamp on the purple wire to the solenoid. The test lamp lights when i turn the ignition all the way on, so i guess that kills off the idea that it is the neutral lock out or ignition switch. Might be looking like the starter and its replacement are duds. 

 

 

What are the chances….

well that rules out your ign switch and neutral switch as you said however i would try using a multimeter to see if the volts drop too far for it to actually get enough power to the solenoid and also check to make sure you still have a good earth at the motor which is common to both starters that you have had in the car, if you have good volts at the solenoid connection hen sounds like starter? , weird its both but your getting power to solenoid so only thing could be shagged starter or main battery cable to starter or your earth . Could be the actual solenoid on the second starter thats rooted and it just so happens that the original starter was no good to?  Unfortunately with electrical things you need to keep going with method of elimination to find the source , if you were closer id give you a hand


Edited by SS Hatchback, 11 November 2013 - 08:58 PM.


#16 A9X

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 09:05 PM

I agree.

 

Here's more confusion.

 

just went to pull the purple wire off the solenoid and its hot enough that i burnt my finger tips. Clearly i have a short and i'm guessing it cooked the first starter solenoid.

 

now where does it short, and are we back to looking at the ignition switch …???



#17 rodomo

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 09:20 PM

Did you try to start it a couple of times then burn your fingers?

If so, the short is in the starter.



#18 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 09:24 PM

a short in the solenoid could cause it to draw too much current as i doubt it has a fuse in that circuit so your cable will just get hot until it melts. Hence burning your fingers. Also even just check to make sure the lug is ok and the starter connection point is clean, that also could cause it to get hot and not get the amount of power to it you need 

 

Edit: didnt see the post above , your too fast Rodo, hope thats not what the girls say ;)


Edited by SS Hatchback, 11 November 2013 - 09:25 PM.


#19 REDA9X

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 12:12 PM

Ah, yes it will. If it fails, the engine will stop. If you disconnect the wires and put a simple toggle switch in, start the engine then flick the switch, see what happens.

Faulty neutral start switch won't cause an engine to stop running, if that's what you mean by "it was driving fine and just died".



#20 A9X

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 03:32 PM

Thanks Red.



#21 S pack

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 06:05 PM

Ah, yes it will. If it fails, the engine will stop. If you disconnect the wires and put a simple toggle switch in, start the engine then flick the switch, see what happens.

Disagree Red. The neutral start switch only allows power to flow to the starter motor solenoid when Park or Neutral are selected and the ignition switch only supplies power to the starter solenoid during cranking. If what you say is the case then as soon as you select drive the engine would die.



#22 REDA9X

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 06:13 PM

I'm willing to put money on it. How do I know? I've done it. In a manual those wires are still there, if you put a toggle switch in, start the car, flick the switch, the car will stop. Try it.

Disagree Red. The neutral start switch only allows power to flow to the starter motor solenoid when Park or Neutral are selected and the ignition switch only supplies power to the starter solenoid during cranking. If what you say is the case then as soon as you select drive the engine would die.



#23 S pack

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 06:25 PM

I'm willing to put money on it. How do I know? I've done it. In a manual those wires are still there, if you put a toggle switch in, start the car, flick the switch, the car will stop. Try it.

Don't need to try it Red. The ignition switch only supplies power to the violet wire (to starter solenoid) during cranking, this applies to both manual and auto transmission vehicles.



#24 REDA9X

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 06:33 PM

Ok , must be my imagination then when I flick the switch and it shuts down. I understand what you are saying, but try it, you'll get a shock

Don't need to try it Red. The ignition switch only supplies power to the violet wire (to starter solenoid) during cranking, this applies to both manual and auto transmission vehicles.



#25 S pack

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 07:11 PM

Ok , must be my imagination then when I flick the switch and it shuts down. I understand what you are saying, but try it, you'll get a shock

Exactly which colour wire is this switch of yours wired into?






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