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Using red oxide primer


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#1 _LC2door4_

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:19 PM

Hi guys,

 

Got some light surface rust in passenger side floor pans in my LC. I want a simple method to fix this and not looking for a show-car finish, just something reliable that I can carpet over. Have read a few past threads and done some Googling, but just wanted to run this by you to see if this approach will do the job:

 

1/ Go over the rusted area with a wire wheel to get the worst of the rust off

2/ Clean/degrease

3/ Treat with Ranex (rust convertor)

4/ Clean/degrease

5/ Go over the lot with red oxide primer

 

There seem to be a lot of products out there for the various stages of this kind of work, but it's hard to know what to mate them up with for the next stage of the process. The only full "system" I've seen is the POR15. I was attracted to the Ranex though, as it's pretty cheap and has had some good reviews. The manufacturer's website says:

 

"Apply Ranex & allow to dry completely in order to penetrate deep rust & to leave surface in a suitable condition for painting with an oil based primer. as Ranex chemically destroys rust it is not necessary to use rust inhibiting paints. Zinc rich paints are not recommended."

 

On this basis, I figured that if I do the job thoroughly and as per the instructions, hitting it with the red oxide after should suffice. I also like the idea of an "original look". What do you guys reckon?

 

Cheers,

 

Jules.



#2 _mikecatts_

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:13 AM

POR 15.. Or the KBS... The only way to go really.. You can get a KBS kit with everything for about $80...



#3 slr5640

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:35 PM

Hi Jules

I will be doing my floors pretty much the same way as you have outlined above...

Sorry no por 15 for me!!



#4 S pack

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:27 PM

GMH used Red Oxide primer on the floor pans and we all know rusty floor pans are a common problem in our beloved Holdens.

 

I rest my case.

 

KBS or POR15 has to be the best way to go, surely?

 

Cheers

Dave.


Edited by S pack, 12 January 2014 - 02:27 PM.


#5 slr5640

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 03:17 PM

its just my personal preference..

My floors are rusted out because the windscreen or the plenum leaked water .If it doesnt get wet its not so much of a problem ..

This is bullits A9X 30 plus years old and never been wet ..perfect floors...

 

 

 

 

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#6 _LC2door4_

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 03:31 PM

Yeah that was my thinking too. My car was driven in all weather for 40 years, but after the resto it's going to be in the garage and fine weather driving. My question was more given my choice of rust treatment, would the process I've described be alright? I guess the "best" system can only be determined after another 40 years with some side by side comparisons :-)

#7 sibhs

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 07:42 PM

I've used the POR or KBS system then used red oxide over the top for that original look. Best of both worlds.
Red oxide isn't like the lead based stuff they used to use, plus your going over old metal so rust has more chance of returning. KBS encapsulates the metal.
Marty
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#8 slr5640

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 10:59 AM

good advice ....you could do it both ways Jules...



#9 _LXSS350_

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:04 PM

its just my personal preference..

My floors are rusted out because the windscreen or the plenum leaked water .If it doesnt get wet its not so much of a problem ..

This is bullits A9X 30 plus years old and never been wet ..perfect floors...

 

That is so very true. The floor pan was never a major rust area unless as you say above .......... or the heater radiator sprang a leak (very common after a few years and no inhibitor). This was made worse because the carpet and underfelt remained damp and of course GMH's cheap ass decision to go light on undercoat and paint with many areas being pretty much bare metal.



#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 06:37 PM

I thought you could get kbs in red oxide?




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