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Advice: 308 top end rattle/tick/clunk


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#1 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 12:41 AM

G'day everyone,

Could I please ask for your opinions on my temperamental 307?

As some of you know the LX has been rego'd and back on the road for two weeks now... And there's an issue. After about 3 hours driving (first big drive for about 3 years) last weekend it developed a ticking, from the passenger side bank. I got her home and inspected and thought maybe it might be an exhaust gasket leak, so I replaced the gasket (which showed signs of a loose fit, but no blow outs etc).


Symptoms
After running it today I've been able to diagnose a few more symptoms:
- ticking coming under rocker cover closest to firewall (at idle from start up, seems to get more pronounced as the engine warms up)
- a "clank" sound every now and then (only every so often and this is worse on cold start)
- trouble idling at cold start up (if I take the air cleaner off it's heaps better, and if I out it back on it chokes on itself and stalls when cold)
It's running a Rochester quad so not sure if this is a common issue
- oil pressure gauge reading normal levels

Engine
I'm not 100% sure what's in the top end, I'm getting a list from my mate that I bought it from and all I know is it's high-comp and reasonably fresh - would only have about 4000km, but had been sitting around for a while.

I am assuming the noise is probably lifter/rocker related, but the "clank" sound and the trouble idling on cold start up has me a bit confused. I don't have the skills or tools to pull apart heads to inspect them, so I was hoping for suggestions... Please?

- any thoughts on what it could be / experience with similar symptoms?

I was hoping to get some advice and things to look out for before I start looking to change cam/rockers/lifters etc.

Thank you.
Andrew

Pic - gasket seems to have had a leak, but not a blow out.

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#2 _Muzzy_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:45 AM

I would lift the cover
Possible cracked alloy bridge or rocker
Deeper but causes the same noise
Hydraulic lifter

These suggestions are based on a std engine with std running gear

#3 A9X34

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 08:26 AM

Holden and Chev V8's are known for wearing out cam lobes from time to time, especially if new cams have not been run in properly (approx. 2000 rpm for 20 min or drive it but never let it idle) I would suggest remove the rocker cover and coil lead and have someone crank it over while you watch to see if all the valves move the same amount.

 A worn lobe won't move the valve as much and depending on how worn one is and if its an inlet or exhaust will give different issues.

 Inlet worn a little may only drop power or miss in the higher rpm, the more wear the lower in the rpm range it will do it.

 Exhaust worn a little you may get a high rpm back fire the more wear the lower in the rpm it will back fire (exhaust gas doesn't have time to get past the valve so it goes up the manifold when the inlet opens)

 I have also seen where the lobe may be half worn away but the base of the lifter is so concaved that the base is so thin or a pin hole that it bleeds oil pressure out the bottom of the lifter. This probably won't affect the oil pressure reading but allows the lifter to compress.

 Hope this Helps



#4 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 10:27 AM

I would lift the cover
Possible cracked alloy bridge or rocker
Deeper but causes the same noise
Hydraulic lifter
These suggestions are based on a std engine with std running gear


Thank you. That will definitely be the next step - I'll lift it off with a mate who knows what he's looking at this week.

#5 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 10:31 AM

Holden and Chev V8's are known for wearing out cam lobes from time to time, especially if new cams have not been run in properly (approx. 2000 rpm for 20 min or drive it but never let it idle) I would suggest remove the rocker cover and coil lead and have someone crank it over while you watch to see if all the valves move the same amount.
 A worn lobe won't move the valve as much and depending on how worn one is and if its an inlet or exhaust will give different issues.
 Inlet worn a little may only drop power or miss in the higher rpm, the more wear the lower in the rpm range it will do it.
 Exhaust worn a little you may get a high rpm back fire the more wear the lower in the rpm it will back fire (exhaust gas doesn't have time to get past the valve so it goes up the manifold when the inlet opens)
 I have also seen where the lobe may be half worn away but the base of the lifter is so concaved that the base is so thin or a pin hole that it bleeds oil pressure out the bottom of the lifter. This probably won't affect the oil pressure reading but allows the lifter to compress.
 Hope this Helps


Thank you, it helps a lot. I'm really trying to clue myself up on this stuff and reading everything I can. Funnily enough There was a big surge / back fire when I planted last week.

It's time to bite the bullet with this one, crack the cover.

Thanks again.

#6 S pack

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 11:39 AM

My money is on a faulty hydraulic lifter if hydraulic lifters are fitted.



#7 UCSLE

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 01:10 PM

I had a problem once where the starter motor didn't disengage properly making a clanking noise . Check to see in the starter motor gear is returning properly , it might be a bit hard to notice, you have to see it before it makes the clunk and it might not happen all the time.  Also does the idle drop every now and again ? , the ticking noise maybe a sticky valve.



#8 A9X34

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 03:24 PM

 Yes a sticky valve could also be another cause. I had that problem when I had some chev heads overhauled years ago and the guide clearance was too tight. When the engine temp came up a valve would occasionally nip up and bent when kissed by the piston. Had to have the guides reamed again for better clearance.



#9 rexy

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 05:31 PM

Get a piece of hose, stick one end in your ear and touch the other end around the engine to localise the noise. Plenty of leakage on that gasket pic. How tight did you do it up when you replaced it? Ideally I would get rid of it and use a high temp silicone, it never leaks.
Bet it's still an exhaust leak.

#10 RallyRed

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:18 PM

had a LX SL/R 5000 back in the day.....had a ticky sound from the passenger side bank.
Had stock rockers etc.....pushrod had poked a hole thru the rocker arm. When stripped down, the cam lobes were also very worn and you could see the 'grain'
of the metal, rather than the nice shiney surface expected.
Maybe yours is just a dodgey rocker?

#11 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:31 PM

I had a problem once where the starter motor didn't disengage properly making a clanking noise . Check to see in the starter motor gear is returning properly , it might be a bit hard to notice, you have to see it before it makes the clunk and it might not happen all the time.  Also does the idle drop every now and again ? , the ticking noise maybe a sticky valve.


G'day thanks for that, I've had issues with this starter motor and it's getting the boot soon.

The idle does drop every now and then...

#12 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:36 PM

Get a piece of hose, stick one end in your ear and touch the other end around the engine to localise the noise. Plenty of leakage on that gasket pic. How tight did you do it up when you replaced it? Ideally I would get rid of it and use a high temp silicone, it never leaks.
Bet it's still an exhaust leak.


Great idea, will do that for sure, definitely was a lot of leakage on that gasket. I replaced it and tightened right up, but will get in with the hose to give it a listen around the edges of the headers and the gasket to see if it's sealed.

I've never used the silicon for an exhaust gasket, makes sense though! I'll give that a shot too.

#13 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:40 PM

had a LX SL/R 5000 back in the day.....had a ticky sound from the passenger side bank.Had stock rockers etc.....pushrod had poked a hole thru the rocker arm. When stripped down, the cam lobes were also very worn and you could see the 'grain'of the metal, rather than the nice shiney surface expected.Maybe yours is just a dodgey rocker?

had a LX SL/R 5000 back in the day.....had a ticky sound from the passenger side bank.Had stock rockers etc.....pushrod had poked a hole thru the rocker arm. When stripped down, the cam lobes were also very worn and you could see the 'grain'of the metal, rather than the nice shiney surface expected.Maybe yours is just a dodgey rocker?


Fingers crossed it's just something like a rocker. The cheaper the repair the better for me at the moment... Fingers crossed.

#14 _trippytaka_

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:50 PM

 Yes a sticky valve could also be another cause. I had that problem when I had some chev heads overhauled years ago and the guide clearance was too tight. When the engine temp came up a valve would occasionally nip up and bent when kissed by the piston. Had to have the guides reamed again for better clearance.


Ah right. I hope it's not down there and I can get away with a rocker instead of valve work :)

#15 _trippytaka_

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 05:07 PM

Could I please ask for a recommendation for 308 heads rebuild and tuning of a 4 barrel Rochester?

#16 lakeside

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 06:23 PM

It will be the rear lobe of the camshaft. It just a common problem with Holden V8's.

#17 _trippytaka_

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 11:13 PM

And there she blows. Broken spring. I spoke with the previous owner, a good mate of mine and he mentioned that the motor breaks them quite often... I have a few spares he have me with the car, so in theory she should be back on the road in the next week or two.

So, the question is why does this motor break the same spring reasonably often and only that one?

Weird.

It will be the rear lobe of the camshaft. It just a common problem with Holden V8's.


Do you think this would lead to breaking the valve spring? It's the last cylinder on the passenger side (7?). Apparently it's done it a few times at high revs.

#18 Rockoz

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 12:42 AM

How hard did you rev it?

What condition are the replacement springs? Rusty at all?

Being the same spring may be that crappy springs have been used as replacements.



#19 _trippytaka_

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 09:32 PM

How hard did you rev it?
What condition are the replacement springs? Rusty at all?
Being the same spring may be that crappy springs have been used as replacements.


Um, not too hard. It was her first day out and probably took is to redline twice.

My mate said that it breaks when it gets revved hard, but the replacements were definitely ok and new. Not sure... I'm gonna replace it and the see if it breaks again. Of it does it's the perfect excuse for new work :)

#20 Lima31

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 11:34 PM

Nice, I managed to break a (not cheap) hydraulic lifter once, definitely harder to get to ...

 

Attached File  DSC_0467.jpg   159.34K   2 downloads



#21 _trippytaka_

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Posted 12 August 2014 - 11:38 PM

So... Been a while. The good news is that my mate and I fixed the broken valves spring. She was snapped in two places and clean breaks so no nasty pieces floating around.

After putting it all back together again there's still a noisy tick! Took it out for a gentle drive and past 2600rpm she farts violently.

Taking it in for a pro to look at now... Probably end up looking into what quick power gains I can make while there. Stay tuned.

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#22 _trippytaka_

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 10:46 PM

So... Finally figured out why the spring keeps breaking. Worn cam lobe. Engine only has 5,000km on it. Looks like there is damage to the valve stem too, so I'll be going up a few notches while it's all pulled apart. Joy = porting, big cam, valves, new manifold etc. Will keep you all posted :)

#23 Bigfella237

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 07:04 AM

As mentioned earlier, Holden V8s have always worn lobes off the back of the cam, in every engine I've built for years now I've drilled, tapped and plugged the oil return hole in the left side of the lifter valley, this forces the oil returning from the rocker gear to pool and run over the camshaft instead of draining straight back to the sump. I've never seen one of my engines with the same problem since.

 

I must say I've never heard of a worn cam lobe breaking a valve spring though, that would normally be caused by just the opposite (to much valve lift). I see someone has fitted roller rockers, studs and guideplates, I wonder if whoever built the engine did their valve lift multiplied by rocker ratio sums correctly?

 

Have you checked to see if you're getting coil bind at full lift?

 

EDIT: I forgot to mention, an 1/8" gas plug fits almost perfectly but unless you're drilling and tapping with all the other machine work at rebuild time, it'd be almost impossible to do without getting metal shavings fall through onto the crank.


Edited by Bigfella237, 11 November 2014 - 07:18 AM.


#24 Rockoz

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 11:31 AM

Read that one of the race teams. probably all of them, back in the early 80s used to grind a flat on the lifters on the bottom section.

Was 10 thou from memory.

Resulted in a slight drop in oil pressure but kept the oil up to the camshaft making them last longer.



#25 _trippytaka_

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Posted 13 November 2014 - 10:37 PM

As mentioned earlier, Holden V8s have always worn lobes off the back of the cam, in every engine I've built for years now I've drilled, tapped and plugged the oil return hole in the left side of the lifter valley, this forces the oil returning from the rocker gear to pool and run over the camshaft instead of draining straight back to the sump. I've never seen one of my engines with the same problem since.

I must say I've never heard of a worn cam lobe breaking a valve spring though, that would normally be caused by just the opposite (to much valve lift). I see someone has fitted roller rockers, studs and guideplates, I wonder if whoever built the engine did their valve lift multiplied by rocker ratio sums correctly?

Have you checked to see if you're getting coil bind at full lift?

EDIT: I forgot to mention, an 1/8" gas plug fits almost perfectly but unless you're drilling and tapping with all the other machine work at rebuild time, it'd be almost impossible to do without getting metal shavings fall through onto the crank.


It's funny I queried that when I was chatting to a few other people about it and had a couple nod that they'd worn cam lobes in 308s too. Bit of a bugger.

Thanks for the advice. It's at Tom's at the moment getting the head work etc done so I'll pose the question tomorrow :)

Will let you know how it goes... Thanks again.




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