9 replies to this topic

[LC-GTR-1969]

Gday everyone,

 

Im having some troubles with starting when hot...

 

Engine is a 202 / manual with all the good bits...

 

Car starts great when cold, but regularly when hot, will just appear dead. I have suspected an earthing issue, but I believe I have discounted this. Battery is mounted in boot. I have pulled battery and earth and cleaned all contact surfaces at battery as well as the earth cable. I have checked continuity from the negative on the battery when experiencing the starting problem and I am getting great continuity from the battery to the chassis.

 

The car runs around 180 degrees hot- doesnt get much hotter, but the extractors sit extremely close to the starter.

 

It has an existing heat shield over the starter motor.

 

I am now suspecting that the starter is being effected by the heat/ heat soak.

 

Any ideas? Starter cranks fine all day when cold.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Rockoz]

Will probably find the solenoid is just about cactus.

Common problem.

Heat from extractors makes it worse.

Better heat shielding.

Consider wrapping extractors near the starter.

Check the main lead on the starter.

May be getting hot.

How is the lead from chassis to motor?

Just a few things to ponder.

[RallyRed]

hi mate....may not be your issue...however, used to have a SL/R5000...was a pig to start when hot. The starter motor only ever turned over slowly when hot, but was fine when cold.
Ended up tracing it to a slightly lose main wire on the starter motor itself.
Because the main big wire to the starter was a bit loose, it got hot and then discoloured.
This increased the resistance as it bolted to the main terminal stud.
Thus a hot joint ensued and the 12v dropped to apprx 6v when cranking.Not much happens with 6v on it.
If you test for this when cranking...be careful to measure ON THE ACTUAL STUD ,as that is where the 12v is required.

Took the wire off, polished up the lug, tightened up properly , and all was good.

Like I said, may not be your issue, but easy to eliminate

Col

p.s. Rockoz types quicker that I do...ha ha

Edited by RallyRed, 30 April 2014 - 07:40 PM.

[LC-GTR-1969]

hi mate....may not be your issue...however, used to have a SL/R5000...was a pig to start when hot. The starter motor only ever turned over slowly when hot, but was fine when cold.
Ended up tracing it to a slightly lose main wire on the starter motor itself.
Because the main big wire to the starter was a bit loose, it got hot and then discoloured.
This increased the resistance as it bolted to the main terminal stud.
Thus a hot joint ensued and the 12v dropped to apprx 6v when cranking.Not much happens with 6v on it.
If you test for this when cranking...be careful to measure ON THE ACTUAL STUD ,as that is where the 12v is required.

Took the wire off, polished up the lug, tightened up properly , and all was good.

Like I said, may not be your issue, but easy to eliminate

Col

p.s. Rockoz types quicker that I do...ha ha

Thanks for all the replies...

 

Some great advice here..

 

I will check voltage at St.Motor when playing up… Connections seem tight from my 'quick' look but will need a closer inspection.

 

Basically I'm getting brilliant crank when cold. ZERO crank when HOT. First try when hot I will get a solenoid click, but from that point, nothing at all.. Any subsequent tries it is just 100% dead.

 

If I wait 5 minutes- no problem, she will hesitate for a second, then start cranking. 

 

I have never experienced the no crank issue from cold.

Edited by jkirky, 30 April 2014 - 08:02 PM.

[Rockoz]

Could be a bad connection on the solenoid coil.

Or possibly bad main contacts in the solenoid.

Or may just need some lube on the throw out.

 

Next time it does it grab a spanner and carefully bridge the 2 big contacts on the solenoid.

This will put the power straight onto the starter.

 

If it starts then the solenoid is the problem.

 

If the starter spins without engaging the flywheel then its probably the throw out.

 

The theory.

 

If it starts the rotational action will send the throw out forward. So no problem there.

If it just spins then the throwout is more than likely in need of some lube.

[N/A-PWR]

well, it could be the brushes going too Jk,

now heat expands the metal which can make the brushes change position,

also, the brushes can be at the last stages of being able to do the job.

what comes next is the Iron Bar and the tap on the starter motor to get some last contacts to start. Dave I

 

 

Just change out the starter motor to a New one

[LXCHEV]

Could also be the factory ignition circuit wiring isn't coping too well when hot. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet as its very common.

The standard solution is to wire in a relay to the starter / ignition circuit. Quick and easy. The result of this is a strong 12V direct to the starter every time. The original ignition wiring now only acts as a trigger to the relay.

I've fixed several cars over the years with this method, all with the notorious "won't crank when hot" symptoms.

Search around, there are old threads on this somewhere.

[N/A-PWR]

This lot Brett - https://www.google.c...h-torana.com.au

[rodomo]