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Best front end combo.


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#1 _Drue_

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 07:14 PM

Good i guys,
Have been reading a lot on here and trying to work out which is the best combo. Have early lx front end. Looking at getting the following.
- Uc uca's
- harrop steering arms
- hq drop stubs
- possible hoppers kit. ( is that a good choice?
- Springs and shocks (unsure of best ones)

What are the opinions?

#2 BIG KEV

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 07:28 PM

If your going to use a hoppers brake kit there is no need to buy the Harrop steering arms as the Hoppers kit is designed to bolt up to your Torana stubs ...

#3 dattoman

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 07:42 PM

Sorta what he said

Plus... HQ stubs drop the car... dropped ones would put your car into the weeds



#4 axistr

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 08:30 PM

You need to run Harrop arms regardless of brakes if your running HQ stubs to remove bump steer issues.


Edited by axistr, 20 May 2014 - 08:31 PM.


#5 _LXSS350_

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 11:41 PM

On suspension a lot depends on your ride preference and budget. But your springs, shocks and stabilizer bars (and suspension bushes) need to all be matched to achieve your end aim. I am a big fan of using Bilsteins valved for custom springs and stabilizer bars. Doing things like solid mounting your rack and mix and matching bushing materials (and their hardness) gets you many variables. Some road torries I will prefer to put rubber in some bushings and neo in other positions. I don't believe there is just one choice it depends on loading and bushing position (i.e. nhv transfer, load, firmness) Also don't forget to pre-drill your K-frames UCA mounts lower and you material choice for the 6 K-Frame bushes.

 

Work out your spring length (ride height) based on your tyres (or suspension guys will do it) and get them to recommend a matching set-up i.e. spring lbs, shock valving and stabilizer bar sizing choices. Then before ordering throw it around the forum for +/- feedback. As Axistr said above the harrop arms are only needed if you use the H series stubs to counter the bump steer issues they introduce.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-the-front-end/

http://www.gmh-toran...-hz-stub-axles/



#6 _Drue_

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 11:50 PM

If your going to use a hoppers brake kit there is no need to buy the Harrop steering arms as the Hoppers kit is designed to bolt up to your Torana stubs ...

so am i better off using hq brakes? 



Sorta what he said

Plus... HQ stubs drop the car... dropped ones would put your car into the weeds

WIth this, isnt the idea to have std springs and the correct travel and ultimately better handling? 



You need to run Harrop arms regardless of brakes if your running HQ stubs to remove bump steer issues.

Is the hq stubs a good option? 



#7 _447SBC_

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 12:09 AM

Not keen on tubular adjustable lower and upper control arms?

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#8 BIG KEV

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 07:10 AM

Drue ....I am no expert on this stuff but what I think your trying to ask / know is ....
if you use a Hoppers brake kit it will bolt straight onto your Torana stubs with your choice of spring height...no other mods needed
if you decide to use HQ stubs ...Use HQ calipers and rotors but keep in mind this set up lowers the car by 25mm but you will need to use the Harrop arms and by the time you buy the arms stubs new rotors calipers and reco them I think you would be better off using the Hoppers kit with better brakes and its all new and bolts straight on with no bump steer ...
I hope this helps you ,guys correct me if I am wrong

#9 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 07:42 AM

The HQ stubs are stronger and being taller they also improve camber gain in bump. However they have roughly two degrees less KPI which worsens an already limited range of static camber adjustment especially on lowered cars, for road use it can be a pain having excessive negative camber that you can't dial out (also limits how much caster you can add).

Using drop stubs with standard springs for full suspension travel requires that your wheels and tyres can make use of that full travel, if its quite low there will be obviously be clearance issues that limit this. The reality is that a lowered car must by necessity have reduced suspension travel and heavier spring rates. Also if you're looking for handling improvements it seems unlikely that you'll want to retain the standard spring rates anyway.

If you're starting from scratch I don't think the brakes are a deciding factor on going to HQ stubs or not as you've got options either way, depending on budget of course (or what's left of it!)

#10 _LXSS350_

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 06:36 PM

I don't have them on hand but I don't think the HQ stubs are any longer (taller)) than the LX stubs (such difference would change the roll centre and camber gain). The included KPI and actual stub centre line are of course different. The lowering of  the UCA K-Frame mounting position changed the camber gain available in the A9X not because the stubs where longer.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-holdens/page-2


Edited by LXSS350, 21 May 2014 - 06:36 PM.


#11 BIG KEV

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 06:57 PM

HQ and LH/LX stubs are the same height the only difference is KPI and the spindle of the HQ is 25mm lower than the torana spindle....
I have both sitting on the shed floor

#12 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 09:09 PM

Oops sorry I think I've been corrected on the height thing before... must have been thinking about lowering the upper arm




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