Hi guys, my rear main seal in my lx 308 is pissing out oil and needs a change. just wondering if I can change it by dropping the gearbox?
Can you change out a rear main seal by dropping the gearbox?
Started by
_faliba23_
, Jun 15 2014 03:52 PM
Rear main seal
19 replies to this topic
#2
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 04:33 PM
No, you have to remove the sump and the rear main bearing cap to replace the rear main seal. So either remove the sump with engine in car (if possible) or remove engine from car and mount on an engine stand.
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 05:45 PM
I think the gear box (flywheel/crank) would still be in the way to do a proper job the easily way.
#4
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:03 PM
I think the gear box (flywheel/crank) would still be in the way to do a proper job the easily way.
Probably right Terry. Remove gearbox and flywheel in either instance.
#5
_faliba23_
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:14 PM
Crap. Don't want to pull the motor out. What kind of things would be in the way
#6
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:19 PM
THe rear main seal runs inside the rear mains cap and the block.
The easyest way to do it is to remove the crankshaft, so everything swinging off that has to go or be out of the way, but you can do it by just dropping the end main cap and wiggle the top part through between the crank and the block.
So gearbox flexplate/flywheel and sump are absolute minimum. To get the sump off with the engine in the car your likely going to have to either lift it somewhat or drop the x member.
Its easyer to just pull the engine in most cases.
Cheers.
#8
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:46 PM
sometimes the long way around is the quickest route,i would pull the engine out rather than hanging up side down
#9
TerrA LX
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:52 PM
Is it a Holden V8?
Double check it ain't something like the rear of the manifold or the cam plug.
#10
Posted 15 June 2014 - 08:02 PM
My thoughts exactly, plus its a lot easier to do it right with engine upside down on the stand - would hate to go to all that work and have the new seal leak anyway!sometimes the long way around is the quickest route,i would pull the engine out rather than hanging up side down
#11
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 15 June 2014 - 08:18 PM
If would be worth checking that the PCV system is working. If blocked then crankcase pressure can push oil out the seal.
#12
rexy
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:13 AM
As above. I have cured two 308 leaking rear mains by reinstalling the PCV the previous owners had removed. Were only little leaks though.
#13
Redslur
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:34 PM
^^^^Spot on^^^^ have experienced this myself too.
#14
_LXSS350_
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 05:31 PM
With how tight everything is and how little room to get spanners in etc its just far easier and quicker to just drop the engine and transmission together on the Kframe and gearbox crossmember. Then you can separate them on the floor and throw the plastic on a engine stand to do it properly. Just make sure on re-assembly that you are careful as the sump gasket can be a source of the dreaded oil leak. Seriously you do far less damage and loose fr less bark off your hands by dropping the whole thing under the car onto a trolley and the wheeling it away.
This photo gives you an idea with one of the lift tables on how I do it (car is on the two post hoist). After doing it more times than I care to remember all I can say is I wouldn't do it any other way.
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Edited by LXSS350, 16 June 2014 - 05:33 PM.
#15
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 08:32 PM
Isnt that a TKO?
Thought you had some glorefied T10?
Or do you have several cars?
Cheers.
#16
_LS1 Taxi_
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 09:20 PM
That sure looks like a TKO.
Them welds on those extractors look rough
Them welds on those extractors look rough
#17
_LXSS350_
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 09:24 PM
Yes Bomber that's a Magnum 6speed. At the moment its 5 x hatchbacks but I am always looking because I don't have much to do. .... LOL
No in that photo the headers are just tacked in a few places for trial fitting (that's why it was in/out a dozen times). With 2 days work its no good tig welding every join and then ceramic coating and finding out they don't fit. ..... LOL
Edited by LXSS350, 16 June 2014 - 09:26 PM.
#18
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 June 2014 - 09:25 PM
Ah ok T56.
Was gonna say its one funky ass looking T10 wannabee 
Cheers.
#19
bullitA9X
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Posted 17 June 2014 - 09:15 AM
only way to do a rear main seal PROPERLY is with the engine out....
#20
_LXSS350_
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Posted 17 June 2014 - 07:52 PM
only way to do a rear main seal PROPERLY is with the engine out....
Hard enough to just get the sump off in situ let alone doing a rear main in a tight torana chassis. Doing a job twice also is no fun. Running the old red motor heads those centre extractor bolts around the steering shaft are real fun if your separating the trans and coming out the front. Just so much easier to remove it and out the bottom causes far less drama and takes far less time. Of the top of my head about the only negative is having to bleed the brakes and separate the steering shaft but once you know how to do it efficiently its not a drama. (unless the cotter pin has been in place since new - LOL)
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