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Which 308 Blocks have their head bolts go into the Water jackets?

Started by _Viper_ , Jun 22 2014 04:38 PM

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9 replies to this topic

#1 _Viper_

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 04:38 PM

Hey guys, just wondering who can confirm which V8 blocks head bolts thread into water jackets and require sealant?

I was told VT blocks dont and do not need sealant... While re-torqing the head after the first heat cycle when I cracked loose the first bolt coolant was slowly leaking out, Once I re-torqued it stopped.

But I did notice a tiny leak of coolant at the front of the head coming from the headgasket which right next to where this bolt was (copper head gasket) so maybe it was just leaking past the gasket... seems to have stopped now after re-torqing but will keep and eye on it.

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#2 _Mint_

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 05:57 PM

pretty sure they all do Clint...that is all blocks are the same,the only bolts that dont go through to water are the short ones on the header side of the block and the ones in the valley(2 on each side)

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#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 06:55 PM

As above, all the blocks bolts are open to the coolant gallerys.

The threads are probably still sealed, coolant may have leaked out thru the copper gasket, it is not uncommon for unsealed copper head gaskets to need a bottle of glass bead stop leak to cure the odd leak here and there, keep an eye on it, you are probably lucky they sealed back up.

Edited by TerrA LX, 22 June 2014 - 06:56 PM.

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#4 _Viper_

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 08:52 PM

:( I didnt use any sealer at all on the studs, only ARP Lube... I actually thought I checked the holes when putting the head on and they didnt seem to go into the coolant gallerys but then seeing the coolant today I started to doubt myself and not cant remember for sure if I did :/

I actually should have said 304 as well not 308, if that makes a difference...

So lets they do go into the water gallerys, Should I drain the coolant, pull each head stud 1 by 1 and blow the holes out as best I can and use some ARP Sealant?

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#5 _Mint_

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 09:44 PM

probly a good idea to put sealant on them though a pita coz youll have to remove some rocker gear to get to some

you could start in the middle just like when you torqued em in the beginning

i use the GM sealant(little can on the right) but Permatex 3j is good as well

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#6 Struggler

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 08:49 PM

Somewhere around VR-VS they sealed up the head bolt holes so yes, VT is definitely dry.

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#7 _Viper_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 10:32 PM

I was thinking back on it and I did think I checked it, And I remember when I put the ACL lube on the studs and screwed them into the block air bubbles popped up and lube squeezed out as if it was a blind hole and the air was being trapped and escaping past the threads...

So seems its the head gasket leaking, altho Ill still double check and make certain its a VT block, was told that when I bought it, but uno... Anyone know how to tell besides looking at the engine number...

I know it came with the VT Style heads with the closed heart shape combustion chambers (were these only on VT?) but It has a solid flat tappet cam... could you still run a flat tappet even tho the VT's had a roller cam standard?

Edited by Viper, 23 June 2014 - 10:38 PM.

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#8 _Mint_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 10:56 PM

turbo pattern block?

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#9 Struggler

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 08:25 AM

Yes, the heart shaped chambers are only on VT heads.

Yes, you can run a flat tappet cam in a VT block.

No way I can think of to check if its blind or not besides pulling a stud and putting some wire or similar down the hole to check.

Be aware though..... if the hole is blind and you put goop all over the stud it may hydraulic itself before it is fully home. This in turn may cause the bolt hole to crack out to the bore on the holes closest to the bore. Something to think about.....

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#10 _Viper_

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 09:50 AM

Yeh Turbo pattern block,

Be aware though..... if the hole is blind and you put goop all over the stud it may hydraulic itself before it is fully home. This in turn may cause the bolt hole to crack out to the bore on the holes closest to the bore. Something to think about.....

Yea thats what was happening when I was putting the studs in... was only threading them in by hand and could feel resistance then the arp lube was being forced up and out the threads (making a mess of the deck which i had just maticulously cleaned in prep for the head gasket!)

Must be the gasket itself leaking gah... might be time for a bottle of stop leak like Terra said, altho Ive never liked putting that in motors, worried it will block up other areas?