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How to remove a v8

Started by _Briggs_ , Oct 10 2014 05:47 PM

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20 replies to this topic

#1 _Briggs_

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 05:47 PM

Hi guys,

I was hoping to replace my old 308 with a new one i picked up recently. rather than going in and randomly removing things then trying to nut it out i thought you might be able to point me in the right direction. It's a UC hatch with a 308 and M21 4 speed, I have a crane, engine stand, 4 car stands and a good trolley jack. i've seen one or two people lift the car off the k-frame but have no idea what to unbolt, where to attach the crane, etc. or even if this would be the right move. Had vague plans of getting it done this weekend, and help would be appreciated, especially if there are some pictures to go with it. thanks in advance,

Briggs

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#2 _Mint_

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 06:10 PM

Hi Paul,i unbolted and removed the gearbox first and lifted the motor out of the bay with an engine crane..but I had a hoist to get underneath

took radiator out unbolted extractors,engine mounts etc...removed drivers side rocker cover and carby and bolted a lift plate there for the crane

didn't even have to remove the bonnet (LX SS V8)

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#3 UCgazman

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 06:22 PM

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#4 Potta

Oh My, Don't you post alot

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 06:51 PM

Haha I was thinking the exact same thing Garth.

Might take a bit of work getting the new one in though.

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#5 UCgazman

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 07:32 PM

Yeah I guess it doesn't really work in reverse...

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#6 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 08:22 PM

Engine Crane, n - a device for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect..

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#7 wot179

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 08:25 PM

Remove it as quickly as possible, then replace it with a red 6.

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#8 IMORAL

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 08:27 PM

I have always removed the engine with a crane. Dropped the k frame to remove the sump once but I prefer to lift the engine out with a crane. Only my opinion. Others prefer to drop the k fame with engine in it and lift the front of the car up with the crane. I can't because my drop tank is only about 4" off the ground.
Some things that have to be removed differ from car to car. This is what I do to yank mine out.

Put car up on stands
Remove bonnet- only 4 bolts and its so much easier to work on.
Drain coolant
Remove radiator- gives me more room and avoids damage
Remove dizzy- to avoid it hitting or breaking.
Disconnect wiring harness. mine has a plug. Not sure on standard vehicles.
Remove exhaust. Twin 3" so they have to get out of the way on mine
Remove extractors. Mine are a pain. 1 7/8 single things that only go in and out one way.
Remove drive shaft
Put trolley jack under gear box. Take the weight of the box and remove cross member. Make sure you use a block of timber of metal plate to spread the load
Put a bottle jack under the sump. Make sure you use a block of timber of metal plate to spread the load. This is to support the engine while you take the box off. Engine crane could also be used.
Remove the converter bolts.- mines an auto. you would have a clutch cable or linkage to remove
Remove the bell housing bolts
Lower and slide the gear box out the way
Connect engine crane. I use a chain at the front and a small come along at the back. You can get lifting plates and levellers from repo etc that look good
Take the weight of the engine and remove engine mounts.
Lift the engine carefully Mine has to come up and out a bit first then I lower the back to get the angle I need. Engine vary depending on the sump.
You can also remove the starter and alternator if you want. Less crap in the way the better IMO. I have done it both ways.
Not sure i this helps but it what works for me anyway.
Plenty of help on her and I am sure other will have different ways for you to use.
Cheers Paul

Remove it as quickly as possible, then replace it with a red 6.

That's just silly. Lol

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#9 76lxhatch

That was easy!

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:49 PM

I can't because my drop tank is only about 4" off the ground.

When lifting the body off you really need to have the rear end supported off the ground (e.g. on a good set of ramps), it gives you a lot more clearance for removal and saves having to lift to silly angles. Would also solve issues with low clearance on tanks and exhaust.

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#10 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 04:20 AM

That's just silly. Lol

That is indeed silly, he completely left out step 3:

1, Remove V8

2, Fit red 6

3, Go faster

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#11 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 10:03 AM

That is indeed silly, he completely left out step 3:

1, Remove V8

2, Fit red 6

3, Go faster

Way to go Jonno . Step 4 is have more fun.

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#12 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 12:55 PM

I found it easy to loosen the gearbox mount bolts (two with slotted holes) and remove the three bolts each side that hold the engine mount bracket to the block you can then slide it forward and get at the bellhousing bolts easier makes it easier to remove and replace aswell as it just slides back in

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#13 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 01:49 PM

maybe we should install these.

they a much smaller and sound tough as.

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#14 _Briggs_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 06:42 PM

you guys rock, as luck would have it my internet dropped out not long after posting and has only just come back online. about half way through today, the slam it in reverse option was getting tempting. But a few beers and some helpful brothers later and it's done. Paul - thanks heaps for the step by step, i'll print it off now and go reverse order putting the new one in (will have to wait till next weekend). As to the six idea, i already have a car that handles beautifully and love the look and sound of a hatch with a V8, not to mention the stright line thrill and ability to tear it up. i did manage to find the tensile strength of one or two items, but nothing i can't fix. one thing i noticed poulling the motor and box out was that i dumped a lot of transmission fluid, how do i and should i replace it before or after the motor goes back in (assuming i can plug it so it doesn't just leak again)?, looking forward to joining everyone on the roads soon,

cheers,

Briggs

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#15 IMORAL

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 07:12 PM

I found it easy to loosen the gearbox mount bolts (two with slotted holes) and remove the three bolts each side that hold the engine mount bracket to the block you can then slide it forward and get at the bellhousing bolts easier makes it easier to remove and replace aswell as it just slides back in

That sounds like a good idea. That's the reason I lower the box and engine. To get the angle to have that fly shit more room to get to those ass hat bolts.

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#16 Mort

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 08:19 PM

Good to hear Paul.

Would be a good idea to put the box back in empty and fill it after it's in.

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#17 Steve TPF

Forum Fixture

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 10:24 PM

maybe we should install these.

they a much smaller and sound tough as.

RESPECT!

That must have taken a lot of time to make - sounded good too!

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#18 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 10:28 PM

100% respect .

i couldnt even fathom to build these from scratch.

here is a v12 also

Edited by 76lxJAS, 11 October 2014 - 10:30 PM.

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#19 _Briggs_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 10:58 PM

not sure how to ad this as a clip but this is pretty awesome:

https://www.youtube....h?v=vxYRa0pqxlw

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#20 _Briggs_

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 11:53 PM

another thought... am thinking now might be a good time to get some extractors. i have read that there can be some clearance issues, what do you guys reccomend?