
Red 202 won't kick over
#1
_Toranaman24_
Posted 04 January 2015 - 11:40 AM
Yesterday finished all my wiring in the LJ, checked oil, water and put new fuel in the engine. Plugs out turn the engine over by hand
Installed the battery checked everything, all ok.
Turned the key and perfect, had it turning over for a few minutes on and off to get the oil around.
Plugs back in few pumps on the go pedal and the car was hiccuping and farting away. Then after about 10 minutes nothing, turning the key to 'start' nothing would happen.
Thought the Battery stated getting flat so I had my truck piggy backed onto it. Still nothing.
Bridges out the inhibitor plug to eliminate that. Still nothing. Re check all earth cables, continuity between chassis, engine, starter and neg terminal.
Checked for voltage at the 'trigger' wire all fine too.
So I thought it had to be the starter. This morn I pulled it off and checked it with a set of jumper leads and it kicks and throws no worries.
Re installed and same problem occurs.
When I turn the key to start it i loose all power into my dash as if it's shorting out (hence I thought the solenoid in the starter) ie the park brake light goes completely out all gauges drop.
Just a little stumped atm. The battery was completly charges overnight.
I have an earth strap from batt to chassis but not from chassis to engine. Would is be vital?
Also because I did have it cranking and almost starting then it just all stopped, has buggered my brain haha
Look forward to the help and replies.
Matt
#2
Posted 04 January 2015 - 11:59 AM
Put a good lead to the engine and that should solve your problem.
Be interesting to find what damage to other components has occured.
Handbrake cable maybe.
#3
_Toranaman24_
Posted 04 January 2015 - 02:03 PM
#4
Posted 04 January 2015 - 02:31 PM
Better off running direct from battery to engine.
Very large cable same as from battery to starter.
Smaller cable from battery to chassis
#5
Posted 04 January 2015 - 02:38 PM
Remember the engine, gearbox and diff mounts are all rubber, so without an earth lead the current will seek the next easiest path to ground...
I've seen choke cables glowing red hot and smoke coming from places it's not supposed to come from due to leaving off the engine earth!
#6
_Toranaman24_
Posted 04 January 2015 - 03:31 PM
#7
Posted 04 January 2015 - 05:29 PM
Hahaha now I understand the comment about the hand brake cable.
#8
Posted 04 January 2015 - 07:33 PM
Remember the engine, gearbox and diff mounts are all rubber, so without an earth lead the current will seek the next easiest path to ground...
I've seen choke cables glowing red hot and smoke coming from places it's not supposed to come from due to leaving off the engine earth!
Yeah, I made that mistake years ago with a Hillman. It earthed through the throttle cable and welded it to the inside of its casing! (steel wrapped).
Couldn't get a replacement cable either - had to get a brake cable off a bike and butcher that. Wasn't a terribly good replacement.
#9
Posted 04 January 2015 - 09:02 PM
#10
Posted 24 January 2015 - 12:00 AM
Seen speedo cables cook too :S
#11
Posted 24 January 2015 - 05:33 AM
Slightly off-topic but this is why things that are earthed directly back to the battery (2-way Radios, stereo, amplifiers, etc.) should have a fusible link in both the positive and negative wires.
If something happens to the main earth lead between the battery and chassis/body, the next best path to ground will be through your expensive electronics that just happen to have their own earth wire, but if installed correctly the negative fuse will blow and stop the smoke escaping.
Of course we all know that smoke is the main thing that makes electronics work... once it gets out, you're screwed!
#12
Posted 25 January 2015 - 12:08 PM
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